dikman

Jimi, that list shows just how many different models Singer made, and that the SV designation goes right back to class 5! I noticed that classes 68 and 69 had a very large number of SV machines listed. Fascinating. Madmax, I remain sceptical about such lists (as, I suspect, you are too). I've yet to find any such references.

I just looked up the MSDS for Lilly White oil. It consists of two mineral oils, but what is really interesting is that it's an ISO 22 oil - in other words it's hydraulic oil. Just thought you'd like to know .

If it's a 155 then it should be more than adequate for your needs, and coming with a servo is the icing on the cake.

Which model 111W is it?

I agree with TT, that offer from Uwe is too good to pass up! Even with shipping costs you'd be getting an excellent machine at a bargain price, plus you know where it's coming from.

I like the way you think, oldfarmboy. I've only just bought the lathe (a benchtop 10" x 22", same as the Grizzly G0602). It uses belts/pulleys but the slowest I can get is 125 rpm. I can't see any way of modifying the pulleys to slow it down further without a major re-build, so replacing the motor with a variable speed seems like the easiest option. The motor is only 1HP, so a 1 HP servo may be the go as coupled with the existing pulleys it should retain the torque. Something to think about, strangely enough even though I have 3 servos on my sewing machines using them didn't even occur to me until I read your post!

(Ignore the bit above, for some reason it popped up in my reply and I can't get rid of it!!). Interesting solutions motor-wise. I have a few 12v drills kicking around and they have nice motors in them but supplying power to them has stopped me from using them for anything. Because they draw lots of amps building suitable power supplies is too much trouble. Another possibility is what many do for powering metal-turning lathes - a 3-phase motor controlled by a VFD (used 3-phase motors are often pretty cheap). Some have used treadmill motors for their lathes, but one chap found that at slow speeds it started running very hot. Hmm, just got me thinking, I wonder how a sewing machine servo would work for driving a lathe?

CD, I would think it pretty unlikely that it's assembled in such a way that any springs are dependent on the cover to hold them in place. Singer seem to be better at designing things than doing something silly like that, Just get stuck into it, you know you want to!

I think you should have . Nevertheless, it's a good video of how not to sew something.

My advice to people wanting to buy a servo in the US is to do what you have decided and buy local. The price difference isn't really that great compared to ebay and you'll have peace-of-mind. In my case I found a Chinese company that actually had a warehouse here in Australia so I didn't have to have it shipped from China, just local, and the price was the same, but I had to request the smaller pulley for the motor and that had to come from China (no big deal, though, they were fine to deal with). You'll enjoy that motor, it'll be like a new sewing machine!

I think getting the servo is more important than reverse. Depending on the size of the project I've found it no big deal to turn the material to sew the first couple of stitches and then turn it back the right way.

Good link, Tejas, excellent section on the 111W155 (and clones). I might print that out for reference.

Well done. Did you get the one with reverse and a servo?

(Actually, Dwight, I have no idea what those other terms mean, it took me ages to figure out pancake wasn't something you eat!).

Rocky, (although I must admit I'm partial to a nice single malt - no juice, of course).

I've hand stitched by pre-punching the holes using a #21 needle to give me even spacing and then used an awl to widen the holes for stitching. I'm assuming this is what Sticks intends to do?

Arich, that was where I started my "journey" into the wonderful and arcane world of industrial sewing machines! I made and fitted a speed reducer to my first machine, and then fitted a larger pulley to the handwheel. I still couldn't control it to suit my needs. I now have three servos plus speed reducers on two of them and a very large (8") pulley replacing the handwheel on the third machine (the Pfaff 335). As MM said the speed reducer coupled with the servo is the way to go, as it will give very slow speed and more torque, although with what you want to sew I'm sure a servo alone will be adequate.

I reckon you've made the right choice . That will get you off to a good start.

You may be fine with just a servo, depending on the servo and the settings it has. Try it first and then fit a speed reducer if needed. If you've never tried a machine with a clutch motor it'll probably scare the pants off you the first time! Trust us, a servo is money well spent.

Nice carving. Looks much nicer than roses!

I must admit if I saw that I'd probably remove it too! Pipe cleaners....who'd of thought?

Agree with showing the location (personally I think it should be compulsory). I bought a Pfaff 335, which as Constabulary said was set up for edge binding. It can be used for normal stitching as is, but isn't ideal. It cost me about $200 to get all the bits I needed to convert it back to a normal feed (plus a bit of work). Another thing to consider is the motor. The chances are that the Pfaff will come with a clutch motor, which is not the best for a newcomer to start with (I changed mine to a servo = extra cost). The chances are that the Cowboy will come with a servo motor which will give you much better low speed control. If you can afford it I'd go with the Cowboy. Parts will also be cheaper and easier to obtain.

Yes, forgot to say - good idea.

A chrome-painted sewing machine - very funky .

I was wondering that myself.....