dikman

Lucky you! I don't worry much these days about what others may have, but in this case I'm just a little green with envy. Isn't Brian a funny boy?

Thanks Josh, I'll experiment with some cardboard patterns, your figures give me a starting point. I've decided to go with a single piece of leather (unlined) and will burnish the nap side down first. My guns are well used, so any possible wear from using unlined leather is irrelevant. Unfortunately, my 8-9 oz leather is only 8 oz according to my measurements so I'll go for a ride today and get some thicker stuff. I found a place called Purdyleather that have a couple of nice examples of the Meanea-style holster.

I've been googling pictures 'till I've gone cross-eyed (!) and I'm liking the Menea style more and more. Beautiful stuff, Josh. Is there any particular way of determining how long to make the cuts in the skirt for the loops, or is it trial-and error?

I agree with Ralf, I certainly wouldn't want to pay too much for it (and like everything, it's only worth what someone is prepared to pay). As an example, my WSV77 cost me Aus$150, but the only thing of value was the head unit, I junked the rest. The SV machines are problematic due to the lack of information available, but if you can work on one yourself then they can be good value. The 111 class are nice machines and many parts are common to the various models. While it might look like a 155 I'd be surprised if it's the same, more likely to be similar to the 151 - 154 models I would think (or earlier?). In the case of my WSV77, I went through the 151- 155 parts lists, comparing parts and construction, and while the part numbers were different the parts all appeared to be identical to a W153. Fortunately, the only parts I needed were feet which are easy to get. I would point out to the family the poor condition it's in, it's going to need a bit of work to make it usable and that research has shown there's no information available for it. I honestly think they should give it to you if you want it, as I doubt if they'd get much if they tried to sell it.

Anyone have any thoughts/experience on making such a holster from a single piece of 9-10 oz veg, so it is an unlined holster? Pros and cons? I'm guessing this was how old west holsters were made?

I have an STH-8BLD (it's the early model), and while I haven't used it much (yet) I'm very impressed with it. Very nicely made and works well, I can see this becoming my favourite machine. it will handle up to #138/M20 thread. You don't say what thickness the canvas is, but mine will go through 15 oz. leather (a gunbelt with two layers).

Thanks Bobby, that goes a long way to explaining the process. I have a vacuum tank that I built for stabilising knife handles and fortunately it's big enough to take a holster, I can see where that should remove a lot of the handling in trying to shape it. Looks like I'll have to dust if off. Lots to to think about here.

Very nice indeed, Treed. That's sort of like I've got in the back of my mind, but without the carving. Your liner is a little thinner than I've used but maybe it works better that way? And yes, does the liner go all the way down the skirt? I'm guessing that the holster pouch itself has to be softened to get it through the loops? Do you have a photo of the back, by any chance? Like I said, more questions..... I'm also undecided about the colour, as I've made some vinegaroon I'm itching to try, but I tend to like walnut on leather. Decisions, decisions.

I use 7 1/2" barrelled Remington 1875's. I've made 2 sets of holsters so far and feel it might be time to make what will hopefully be (!) the definitive set that I'll use. I'm sort of moving away from the idea of "fast-draw" holsters (mainly 'cos I've realised I'm no gunfighter!!) and am looking at more traditional styles, hence the interest in Mexican loop designs. I normally use about 9 oz with a 4-5 oz liner, is that going to be too thick to fold and work through the loops? Would unlined be better? The more I think about this the more questions I think of.

Nice job - but it looks too good to use!

Thanks for the advice, folks. I forgot about the Stohlman books, I have some of them on pdf's somewhere (if I can find them). Looks like I'll have to experiment with some cardboard templates first, to get the pattern sizing right, be a bit embarrassing if I make one and then can't get the holster through the loop!

All of my holsters have been a drop loop style (but not Buscadero, I don't really like them) with the separate securing strap attached to the skirt - except for my Steve McQueen holsters, which have no skirt. I haven't made a Mexican loop yet but am thinking about trying one. I see a problem, however, and need some advice. All my holsters are wet-molded and stained (or stained and wet-molded, I've tried both ways). The staining and wet-molding obviously makes them very stiff - so how do I push the holster through the skirt loop? If I wet the holster again, to soften it, I'm likely to lose some of the stamping definition and also the edge finishing is likely to be affected. What am I missing here?

Fred, such a speed reducer would have to be wired electrically into the motor, whereas Alexander's and LD's idea would be connected mechanically to the existing lever arm on the motor speed control. It's not something I would contemplate, better off leaving the existing electronics intact, I reckon.

LumpenDoodle's idea of using R/C components is quite a good one, as they are relatively cheap these days. Only downside I see is that it would be a slightly complex mechanical construction, with a bit of electronics thrown in (but nothing too difficult). It would also necessitate a power supply. Alexander's, on the other hand, is a simple mechanical solution that would likely be easy to implement for most people (also less to go wrong).

That handcrank and handwheel look awfully similar to the those fitted to my Singer 201K (even down to the mounting arm).

Further evidence of the old adage that there's not much that can't be solved by using a hammer! (Nice machine too).

"well it is English Jim, just not as we know it .. " (To further paraphrase - "there's Cowboys on the starboard bow"). Yes, I've often wondered why Chinese companies that are manufacturing very good items do not go that one step further and have someone who can do a proper English translation of their documents. A mystery. I bought an EPS with one of my servos, as it sounded like a good idea, but I don't like it! As Mike said it had a tendency to sometimes put in an extra stitch, and while on clothing with fine stitches it may not matter if it happens on leather work with "big" stitches it's a pest. Besides, using a very slow speed, as I do, it's easy enough to control exactly where I want it to stop.

" My wife already thinks I have too much into a "new" hobby ". Far from it, you've got off to a very cheap start!! A servo is pretty cheap over there and it will probably be the best investment you could make for the Singer. Get what you can for the serger, fit the servo and you'll be happy.

That is a well thought out solution. For anyone wishing to try making their own there are all sorts of hand levers out there, for cycles and motorcycles, so it shouldn't be too hard to find one that will work. I don't really need one, but I'm tempted to have a go just out of curiosity to see what it's like to use. Well done Alexander.

Nice looking machine. From the look of that tension assembly it shouldn't take much to straighten it.

You can squeeze a slightly longer stitch by doing this, as there's no other adjustment that I could find internally. But it all helps.

Very fitting, a Singer in British Racing Green.

Bit of a problem if trying to make a minimal table for a flatbed machine, due to the large cutout needed and the drip tray underneath. I guess a pedestal-type mount could be made, but it would be a bit more complex than that needed for a cylinder arm machine. All I can suggest is cutting down a standard table so it is no wider than the legs and perhaps cutting some off the back so it isn't as deep. I have to make a table (eventually) for a walking foot head I have and that's all I'll be doing.

You don't necessarily have to buy a new machine, just one that is suitable for what you want to do. At least now you have a better idea what to look for.

My tables always seem to end up with extra holes drilled in them .