dikman

I always thought of them as "Hollywood holsters", as Dwight said, and that they came about as a result of movie-making. I suppose they make a visually cleaner-looking holster, but what I've found interesting is the trend in more recent movies back to the Mexican loop style, striving for greater authenticity I guess.

Ok, 3rd photo is almost right. You could probably try coming into the top tension disk and straight out the bottom into the lower disk, i.e. not wrapped around the pin. In the lower disc the thread should come around the disk, as you've done, and then up past that little bent lug you can see in the second photo pulling the check spring (that little bent spring) with it. If this doesn't make sense I'll see if I can get a suitable photo of the path.

"(I love the tinkering)" - I know exactly what you mean!

Bobby, I take your point re- the slits and can see what you mean. In my case it won't matter because it can only be used at the range so little chance of it catching on something. I had, however, already thought of that potential issue and am considering punching small holes at the ends of the slits which hopefully should help relieve stresses at that point. Clintock, I had a look at the site. I'm assuming that their holsters are mass-produced to provide a relatively inexpensive product, and as such might suit some people who just want a basic holster, but they look "clunky" to me. The three-loop, in particular, just look wrong, the straps are too thick and too close together and in places are a sloppy fit. But then I'm known to be picky! As for the edges of the slits, one site I came across said to insert a steel ruler (or similar) into the slit to lift the strap up which will allow access to the edge. It should be possible to finish the edges, but may require a bit of "creative thinking" to do so. Guess I'll find out, and if it doesn't work then I'll simply turn the slits into slots! My template just needs a bit of minor tweaking, but I've learned not to rush and to give it plenty of thought to try and figure out what I've missed....

I forgot to say in my earlier post that's pretty impressive service from Darren, what I call real old-school type of service.

Just a thought (and I'm probably on the wrong track) but I thought the 132K6 had a "snap foot" system, where the presser foot kicked forward and back? (Or something like that). If that's the case then if this one has a roller foot then it can't use the same "snap feed", can it?

Nice. Is it just me or does that design look a bit like an ancient Greek helmet?

If you've already got orders then you're obviously doing something right! As Gary said, there's no "right" or "wrong" way, it just depends what you're/we're trying to achieve. I should have clarified and said that I'm looking at it from the viewpoint of trying to get the shape as close as I can to an original style (allowing for some slight variation to suit my needs). When you start looking at old photos there's a huge variation in how they're made. Thanks for putting up the photo, it let me see what it's like with slots cut, rather than just slits. I'm hoping with all my cardboard templates that I can get it right first time and not have to modify it, but until it's actually made you just don't know quite how it's going to look! By the way, Fiebing's Moccasin Brown is quite nice, might be a bit too dark for what you're looking for but seems to have a little less red in it.

At least you made one, I'm still working on the pattern for mine! I once bought a large bottle of the Medium Brown and yes, it seems awfully dark for a Medium colour! I tried thinning it down but it didn't make it much lighter. It also has a reddish tint which I'm not too keen on. I finally tried their Walnut stain which is actually brown!! Very nice. A couple of things with the holster (things that I've picked up on by looking at lots and lots of photos). Next to the trigger guard you've made it quite sharp and pointy, it will look better if you round that corner off.You've got a swelling of the holster along the stitch line and the idea behind that is to have the swelling between the two loop straps so that it "locks" the holster in place. It's not necessary to actually cut slots to make the loops. I made a cardboard mockup and tried it with just cuts, not slots, and it works fine. Look up the "Cheyenne"-style holster, as made by Frank Meanea. It is a good starting point and the shape can be refined from there. It's not that hard to make a Mexican Loop holster, but the trick, as far as I'm concerned, is to make it aesthetically pleasing (it's got to look right! And purty, too).

Well, plan A didn't work! I found out the only way to buy any leather thicker than I already have is either some ridiculously expensive imported Italian stuff or something that has been made for boot soles - this has been heavily compressed to make it denser than normal veg and is already as stiff as a board! So, to plan B (which I didn't have until this point). I would have to line it, but my normal lining might be a bit stiff for this, so I bought a nice side of yearling, about 3 oz, beautiful stuff. Now to start experimenting with patterns.

Lucky you! I don't worry much these days about what others may have, but in this case I'm just a little green with envy. Isn't Brian a funny boy?

Thanks Josh, I'll experiment with some cardboard patterns, your figures give me a starting point. I've decided to go with a single piece of leather (unlined) and will burnish the nap side down first. My guns are well used, so any possible wear from using unlined leather is irrelevant. Unfortunately, my 8-9 oz leather is only 8 oz according to my measurements so I'll go for a ride today and get some thicker stuff. I found a place called Purdyleather that have a couple of nice examples of the Meanea-style holster.

I've been googling pictures 'till I've gone cross-eyed (!) and I'm liking the Menea style more and more. Beautiful stuff, Josh. Is there any particular way of determining how long to make the cuts in the skirt for the loops, or is it trial-and error?

I agree with Ralf, I certainly wouldn't want to pay too much for it (and like everything, it's only worth what someone is prepared to pay). As an example, my WSV77 cost me Aus$150, but the only thing of value was the head unit, I junked the rest. The SV machines are problematic due to the lack of information available, but if you can work on one yourself then they can be good value. The 111 class are nice machines and many parts are common to the various models. While it might look like a 155 I'd be surprised if it's the same, more likely to be similar to the 151 - 154 models I would think (or earlier?). In the case of my WSV77, I went through the 151- 155 parts lists, comparing parts and construction, and while the part numbers were different the parts all appeared to be identical to a W153. Fortunately, the only parts I needed were feet which are easy to get. I would point out to the family the poor condition it's in, it's going to need a bit of work to make it usable and that research has shown there's no information available for it. I honestly think they should give it to you if you want it, as I doubt if they'd get much if they tried to sell it.

Anyone have any thoughts/experience on making such a holster from a single piece of 9-10 oz veg, so it is an unlined holster? Pros and cons? I'm guessing this was how old west holsters were made?

I have an STH-8BLD (it's the early model), and while I haven't used it much (yet) I'm very impressed with it. Very nicely made and works well, I can see this becoming my favourite machine. it will handle up to #138/M20 thread. You don't say what thickness the canvas is, but mine will go through 15 oz. leather (a gunbelt with two layers).

Thanks Bobby, that goes a long way to explaining the process. I have a vacuum tank that I built for stabilising knife handles and fortunately it's big enough to take a holster, I can see where that should remove a lot of the handling in trying to shape it. Looks like I'll have to dust if off. Lots to to think about here.

Very nice indeed, Treed. That's sort of like I've got in the back of my mind, but without the carving. Your liner is a little thinner than I've used but maybe it works better that way? And yes, does the liner go all the way down the skirt? I'm guessing that the holster pouch itself has to be softened to get it through the loops? Do you have a photo of the back, by any chance? Like I said, more questions..... I'm also undecided about the colour, as I've made some vinegaroon I'm itching to try, but I tend to like walnut on leather. Decisions, decisions.

I use 7 1/2" barrelled Remington 1875's. I've made 2 sets of holsters so far and feel it might be time to make what will hopefully be (!) the definitive set that I'll use. I'm sort of moving away from the idea of "fast-draw" holsters (mainly 'cos I've realised I'm no gunfighter!!) and am looking at more traditional styles, hence the interest in Mexican loop designs. I normally use about 9 oz with a 4-5 oz liner, is that going to be too thick to fold and work through the loops? Would unlined be better? The more I think about this the more questions I think of.

Nice job - but it looks too good to use!

Thanks for the advice, folks. I forgot about the Stohlman books, I have some of them on pdf's somewhere (if I can find them). Looks like I'll have to experiment with some cardboard templates first, to get the pattern sizing right, be a bit embarrassing if I make one and then can't get the holster through the loop!

All of my holsters have been a drop loop style (but not Buscadero, I don't really like them) with the separate securing strap attached to the skirt - except for my Steve McQueen holsters, which have no skirt. I haven't made a Mexican loop yet but am thinking about trying one. I see a problem, however, and need some advice. All my holsters are wet-molded and stained (or stained and wet-molded, I've tried both ways). The staining and wet-molding obviously makes them very stiff - so how do I push the holster through the skirt loop? If I wet the holster again, to soften it, I'm likely to lose some of the stamping definition and also the edge finishing is likely to be affected. What am I missing here?

Fred, such a speed reducer would have to be wired electrically into the motor, whereas Alexander's and LD's idea would be connected mechanically to the existing lever arm on the motor speed control. It's not something I would contemplate, better off leaving the existing electronics intact, I reckon.

LumpenDoodle's idea of using R/C components is quite a good one, as they are relatively cheap these days. Only downside I see is that it would be a slightly complex mechanical construction, with a bit of electronics thrown in (but nothing too difficult). It would also necessitate a power supply. Alexander's, on the other hand, is a simple mechanical solution that would likely be easy to implement for most people (also less to go wrong).

That handcrank and handwheel look awfully similar to the those fitted to my Singer 201K (even down to the mounting arm).