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dikman

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  1. dikman
    I use 7 1/2" barrelled Remington 1875's. I've made 2 sets of holsters so far and feel it might be time to make what will hopefully be (!) the definitive set that I'll use. I'm sort of moving away from the idea of "fast-draw" holsters (mainly 'cos I've realised I'm no gunfighter!!) and am looking at more traditional styles, hence the interest in Mexican loop designs. I normally use about 9 oz with a 4-5 oz liner, is that going to be too thick to fold and work through the loops? Would unlined be better? The more I think about this the more questions I think of.
  2. dikman
    Nice job - but it looks too good to use!
  3. dikman
    Thanks for the advice, folks. I forgot about the Stohlman books, I have some of them on pdf's somewhere (if I can find them). Looks like I'll have to experiment with some cardboard templates first, to get the pattern sizing right, be a bit embarrassing if I make one and then can't get the holster through the loop!
  4. dikman
    All of my holsters have been a drop loop style (but not Buscadero, I don't really like them) with the separate securing strap attached to the skirt - except for my Steve McQueen holsters, which have no skirt. I haven't made a Mexican loop yet but am thinking about trying one. I see a problem, however, and need some advice. All my holsters are wet-molded and stained (or stained and wet-molded, I've tried both ways). The staining and wet-molding obviously makes them very stiff - so how do I push the holster through the skirt loop? If I wet the holster again, to soften it, I'm likely to lose some of the stamping definition and also the edge finishing is likely to be affected. What am I missing here?
  5. dikman
    Fred, such a speed reducer would have to be wired electrically into the motor, whereas Alexander's and LD's idea would be connected mechanically to the existing lever arm on the motor speed control. It's not something I would contemplate, better off leaving the existing electronics intact, I reckon.
  6. dikman
    LumpenDoodle's idea of using R/C components is quite a good one, as they are relatively cheap these days. Only downside I see is that it would be a slightly complex mechanical construction, with a bit of electronics thrown in (but nothing too difficult). It would also necessitate a power supply. Alexander's, on the other hand, is a simple mechanical solution that would likely be easy to implement for most people (also less to go wrong).
  7. dikman
    That handcrank and handwheel look awfully similar to the those fitted to my Singer 201K (even down to the mounting arm).
  8. dikman
    Further evidence of the old adage that there's not much that can't be solved by using a hammer! (Nice machine too).
  9. dikman
    "well it is English Jim, just not as we know it .. " (To further paraphrase - "there's Cowboys on the starboard bow"). Yes, I've often wondered why Chinese companies that are manufacturing very good items do not go that one step further and have someone who can do a proper English translation of their documents. A mystery. I bought an EPS with one of my servos, as it sounded like a good idea, but I don't like it! As Mike said it had a tendency to sometimes put in an extra stitch, and while on clothing with fine stitches it may not matter if it happens on leather work with "big" stitches it's a pest. Besides, using a very slow speed, as I do, it's easy enough to control exactly where I want it to stop.
  10. dikman
    " My wife already thinks I have too much into a "new" hobby ". Far from it, you've got off to a very cheap start!! A servo is pretty cheap over there and it will probably be the best investment you could make for the Singer. Get what you can for the serger, fit the servo and you'll be happy.
  11. dikman
    That is a well thought out solution. For anyone wishing to try making their own there are all sorts of hand levers out there, for cycles and motorcycles, so it shouldn't be too hard to find one that will work. I don't really need one, but I'm tempted to have a go just out of curiosity to see what it's like to use. Well done Alexander.
  12. dikman
    Nice looking machine. From the look of that tension assembly it shouldn't take much to straighten it.
  13. dikman
    You can squeeze a slightly longer stitch by doing this, as there's no other adjustment that I could find internally. But it all helps.
  14. dikman
    Very fitting, a Singer in British Racing Green.
  15. dikman
    Bit of a problem if trying to make a minimal table for a flatbed machine, due to the large cutout needed and the drip tray underneath. I guess a pedestal-type mount could be made, but it would be a bit more complex than that needed for a cylinder arm machine. All I can suggest is cutting down a standard table so it is no wider than the legs and perhaps cutting some off the back so it isn't as deep. I have to make a table (eventually) for a walking foot head I have and that's all I'll be doing.
  16. dikman
    You don't necessarily have to buy a new machine, just one that is suitable for what you want to do. At least now you have a better idea what to look for.
  17. dikman
    My tables always seem to end up with extra holes drilled in them .
  18. dikman
    I was about to say the same thing, Constabulary. I've seen it happen many times in forums, people need to keep this in mind when replying. That aside, fascinating stuff, Gregg, quite a mechanical contraption .
  19. dikman
    Brian, I found the same thing except I filed the bottom of the plate to allow the lever to touch the bottom of the frame slot (can't go any further than that!). I watched all the mechanicals to make sure nothing was touching where it shouldn't and everything works fine.
  20. dikman
    Not controversial. Clutch motors are great for high speed garment machines, not so good for the slow speed and control often needed for leatherwork. Someone who is skilled can use a clutch motor successfully on leather, but that isn't most of us! If you're new to this then a clutch motor can be a scary thing to start with, if you can get it fitted with a servo then do so, it will make your leather sewing much more enjoyable. Fitting a speed reducer with a servo will also give you increased low-speed torque, but that may not be necessary, just depends what you're sewing.
  21. dikman
    Download the manual and read it - lots of times! Try and clean out as much dust and dirt as possible, using a stiff brush and rags, before oiling it. If you can't get the Lily Oil then hydraulic oil (ISO 34) is pretty much the same thing. Make sure it turns over ok by hand, if it doesn't find out why (don't force it). Finally, if it's got a clutch motor be warned, they are scary things for a first-timer and hard to control for leather work. 225.pdf Manual.
  22. dikman
    I was just looking at the photos and thought "aha, the needle's in backwards" and felt pretty clever - then I found others had beaten me to the punch! Don't feel too bad, work9to5, you aren't the first to do this and you won't be the last. At least it's an easy fix.
  23. dikman
    If it worked before then the needle height should be ok. Did you insert the bobbin so that the thread is coming off in the right direction and is threaded correctly? You could try reversing it in the bobbin housing and see if it makes any difference.
  24. dikman
    That is one serious looking machine!
  25. dikman
    I've got one of these and it's a nice enough machine, for what it is. As Wiz said, the needles are what I would call an odd-ball size. I fitted a roller foot but haven't actually used the machine much (it was free, but took a bit of work to get it running). It should sew what you want, but If you're looking for your first leather machine this is probably not the right one to get (I consider it more like a second machine when someone already has a suitable leather machine). A bit of advice, if you think you'll be getting into leatherwork then seriously consider a walking foot machine. It will be much more suitable for leatherwork and as Wiz also said factor in a servo motor. You'll be struggling with anything less than this combination.
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