dikman

Ok, got some Pro Walnut and it's a nice brown, although a little darker than I would have liked. Can this stuff be cut to lighten it a bit? And if so what do I use?

Tim, I was also using the stitch length dial as a reference point and am unable to match it to any photos on google thus far (either Consew or Seiko). Nor have I found one with that type of foot configuration (yet). The Seiko I recently bought didn't have a model number either, but at least I managed to match it via google photos (and some input from Gregg). It's amazing how many people advertise an "industrial sewing machine" but don't include a model number!

I guess I should have added the proviso "unless you are very experienced with clutch motors" (which most of us hobbyists are not), so feel free to ignore my comments .

Ah, that explains the lever at the rear of the foot.

I tried to find a match too, but with no luck. Is it a walking foot, the mechanism around the feet looks different to my machines? I noticed it's missing the drip tray underneath (so must have been dripping oil on the floor???). The ad seems a bit funny to me, he/she said they're selling it because it's too fast (no surprise there) so I wonder why he/she didn't fit a servo instead of a new clutch motor?

In my opinion you would have to be something of a masochist to want to put a clutch motor on a leather sewing machine!

Ian, referring to Gregg's photo, you can see a row of holes along the front edge of the treadle, the extension bolts on there. It provides an adjustment for the connection rod(s) from the treadle to the motor, depending where the extension is bolted to the treadle, allowing the rods to be more in line with the motor.

You can always remove the motor (and all its associated paraphernalia) and replace it with a servo?

Glad I could give you a chuckle, madmax . I should have said that most manuals can be found online, so my assumption was that most (with a clone) would probably try and download the genuine manual that the machine is based on. That's what I would do, but I guess I should have made myself clearer. (Slaps self on back of head).

Thanks guys, but don't forget I'm in Oz, so availability isn't quite the same as over there. Anyhow, the shop has the Pro Dye Walnut Brown so I got him to hold a bottle for me. I'll start with that.

I can't comment on the 441 other than to say that from what I have learned from this forum I wouldn't have any qualms about buying a clone if one came along at the right price. I don't see where the possible lack of timing marks should be an issue, given that you are obviously mechanically capable - between the manuals and this forum you shouldn't have too many problems. Given where you're located I'd say the chances are pretty high that any machine you buy may need to be tweaked to suit what you want to sew, but again that's no big deal, in fact it's a good idea to learn how to do this. So don't worry unnecessarily, just get into it and enjoy yourself (before I joined this forum a couple of years ago I couldn't even understand the complexities of a domestic machine - probably because I hadn't needed to, I suppose - but look at me now, I think nothing of getting stuck into industrial machines in order to try and get them to do what I want ).

There's been a few posts about those machines, and for what they are they're not bad. The fishing line stitching looks good, but I have to admit I'm surprised you got it to work. These machines are best with #69 thread, and even with that the bobbin is small. Still, good fun to play around with and can get into pretty tight areas.

I didn't see it at the shop which is why I bought the Light Brown so I'll have to ask, maybe they don't normally stock it. Thanks guys. Ah-ha! Just checked the Feibing website and I see that the Walnut is in the Pro Dye range, I was looking at the "normal" dye range. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

My next project is a set of holsters and gunbelts, which the lady wants in a walnut brown - not as easy as I thought. I bought Fiebings Medium Brown, but I would call it Very Dark Brown! It also has red in it, which becomes more obvious if I cut the strength, but she doesn't want any red tinging. So I bought Fiebings Light Brown, but it's still a dark brown and shows red tinging on the edges of a test piece. So, how do I get a proper brown colour? I'm in the process of making my own walnut stain (from walnuts) but trying to get it dark enough is a bit of a challenge, so I'm still working on it. Any ideas?

That makes a change from the usual black/silvery grey hammertone/beige. Now that you've mastered the photo thing, how about a couple of the rear and underside of the table and motor? Might give me a few ideas.

Nice one, Nick! . As for the photos, you just need to resize them (smaller). I use irfanview, it's free and has default settings for resizing - easy. Uwe, that photo has got me thinking (bit dangerous). My Pfaff 335 is fitted to a normal table, but now I'm wondering about making something like the photo as it would save a bit of room in my shed.

NC, the wood looks nice. Now, as for the rest of the machine..... Sark, yep, I agree, a screw-attached fitting would be the better choice. The problem I have is that I have several different machines I may need to fit an edge guide to and after much pondering and fiddling I figured the magnetic type would allow me to shift one guide between several machines. Uwe, thanks for ripping open the knife holder, I have, for some time, been curious what they were made of.

There are a few advertisers/sponsors that advertise here, probably be a good place to start looking for a servo.

Switchable magnets would certainly be easier to use and those that northmount linked to would probably be easier to adapt to a guide. Keith, if that magnet is a bit strong try putting a few layers of tape on the bottom, that should reduce its "grab" a bit. I wouldn't worry about the magnetic field affecting other parts of the machine, as once it's clamped to the metal base that should contain the field and stop it extending beyond where it's clamped. I think I need to figure out some sort of fitting on mine so that I can easily break the magnetic contact to remove it, as using a screwdriver to lever it isn't very elegant.

Thanks for the ideas, folks, this is my version. I have plenty of old hard drive magnets but unfortunately they don't have convenient screw holes in them, so I used a small steel bar and super-glued two to it. Rather than wood I used a piece of hard nylon that I had and milled the sides flat and a rebate in the bottom for the bar. I had already made a guide roller for a different fitting so I milled a groove in the top and screwed it to the nylon. (I have to use a screwdriver to lever the bar from the machine base to move it!!!).

Good idea, don't rush into it. Nothing wrong with hand stitching (other than the time it takes to do a belt!!). There is a lot to learn about industrial machines so keep reading. As Uwe said, buying a new machine (while the initial cost is higher) means you have a machine that will work with minimal issues. Buying used means you will probably either have to pay to have it checked/serviced or learn how to fix it yourself (assuming you haven't bought a complete lemon). That Juki, by the way, should be more than adequate to sew belts. So have patience, keep reading and don't be afraid to ask questions.

" de-criticalizes "??

I just bought a Seiko, it looks the same as the one Sark posted. Based on my experience it's definitely the preferred choice. Mine easily handles up to 138 thread and will go through whatever I can fit under the foot. A beautiful machine. Plus that one on CL comes with a servo, which is even better! I drove for an hour across town for mine and it was worth it. Consew is the brand name that Seiko use for the American market, so essentially the same machine.

You mentioned silicone spray, personally I wouldn't use it as the last thing you want is silicone contaminating your leather.

My Irish isn't too good, is that price 10 Euros for the set? If so that's about AUS$14!!!!!