dikman

I wouldn't drink it either . I just wanted to point out that it's made from crude oil, rather than being a natural product. (When I saw the name "Saddler's Oil" for some reason I just assumed it would be a natural product). As you say, the important thing is whatever works, and you're obviously getting good results from it.

I was curious what U82 Saddlers oil is, it's just under 100% Solvent naptha (petroleum) heavy aliphatic, the rest being alcohol! I'm sure it works, but I think I'll stick to neatsfoot oil, beeswax, tallow etc.

I recall as a kid I had sheath knives with the strap like that and the cross-guard always caught on the strap when removing the knife.

That part should only move when you operate the foot lift lever, if it does that then all you need is a suitable pin. I doubt you will get a pin when you buy a tension unit as it's a separate part.

Can't imagine why! I reckon the one that Wiz refers to should do nicely, not too big and not too small. If you get one that's too big you could have problems trying to sew lighter stuff.

Ahhh, I'm in Australia, we don't have a "right to bear arms". We are constantly reminded that it's a privilege to own a firearm and it can be taken away in the blink of an eye if the police think we've done something wrong. Hence our equally absurd knife regulations.

Funny thing is that if I make my own copy (which I've been thinking about for a while) that is identical but without any name on it will be legal and will just look like a general purpose sheath knife.

Well, that's different! Nice job, looks cool.

I agree Dwight, I've always felt that they are a great general-purpose knife - not too big or heavy and a nice blade shape. I've always wanted to own one (not that I have any use for it) but here in my State they are banned! And all because the manufacturer added the appellation "fighting knife"!!! Not even God can save us from petty bureaucrats and politicians, I'm afraid.

Sounds like me! (Yes, I have a couple of machines ) When I became interested in shooting as a hobby, a few years back, my wife encouraged me but I knew what would happen. Sure enough, I bought a 6-gun safe, should be big enough. Hmmm, need another one. A bit later needed another one!! I'm now up to the legal limit of ownership without having to upgrade my security!!!! Plus all the reloading, casting and coating gear that goes with it. Shooting, by the way, is what got me into leatherwork......

Neat. The flared leather, to line up with the guard, is an interesting style.

I was given a 51W59, similar but had a cutter next to the post to undercut the leather as it went. I took off the cutter (not needed) and persevered with it for some time before coming to the conclusion it wasn't suited to what I wanted to do. Broke a few needles in the process! It was my first industrial machine and got me started down the slippery slope of industrial (leather) sewing machines.

Try and fit the smallest pulley you can find to the motor - 2" or less - as it all helps. You'll probably need a shorter belt too. Just watch the weight of the clutch motor when you remove it, they're heavy!!

Ummm, I had to build a small shed to put them in . And there's still one in the main garage 'cos I haven't got enough room! Anyhow, I reckon you've done well, Jnap.

Be interested to see what you can come up with. I've tried to visualise the possible options and reckon whatever you do it's likely to look a little "odd". It's one thing to put boolit loops on a holster, but a knife sheath....?

Just re-read this and realised you're not quite comparing similar machines, as the Consew 225 is comparable to a 111W155, whereas the 111W154 doesn't have the material handling capability of the W155 (I really should read a bit slower!!). That makes the Consew the much better buy, in my opinion.

Many of the older Consew's were made by Seiko and were basically Singer clones, nothing wrong with that. Consew's are generally considered to be good machines. According to the manual the 225 has 1/2" lift, should take #138 thread and is manually oiled. Me, I would take the Consew over the Singer (assuming it works, of course). Fit a servo and you'll be happy as the proverbial! If you're mechanically able then armed with a suitable manual and the able assistance of this forum you shouldn't have too many problems adjusting and maintaining either one.

Performance-wise both of those machines should be pretty much the same. The Consew is showing less paint wear, which suggests it hasn't been used as much so might be the better buy (although you would need to buy a servo, as you say). As for using #138 thread, you need a bigger needle (size 22/23) and may need to adjust the hook timing a little, although my machines take #69 and #138 without needing adjusting.

I would have been surprised if it hadn't been mentioned, it's generally one of the first things suggested.

I have attached a parts list for the 31-15. Look at the 2nd. drawing, part #43944, it's a horseshoe-shaped piece that actually operates the missing pin. Make sure that piece is there, as I had the same problem with my 31K20 and that piece was missing! I had to make a new one, which was a bit of a pain!! 31-15.pdf

A cylinder arm (with a table of some sort) will be the most versatile option, particularly if you're limited to one machine for a while. I bought a Chinese knock-off of a basic patcher (because it seemed like a nifty machine for the money) but I've never used it! I'm sure it'll be useful one day, but it is pretty rough on the surface of the leather!

Good description of the process, Dwight, that's exactly how I do it (great minds? ). It's easier than stitching and looks quite neat, plus the spacing of the slots determines how close together the loops are.

Very nice job on the holsters. The belt is a different colour, is that intentional?

Don't know about the pigskin, but I'm using Kangaroo hide on some loops, as it's very thin and tough for its weight.

If the price is right it's probably a pretty good way to get started (although a cylinder arm is certainly more versatile).