dikman

Thanks 3DReefer but Fusion looks like it's an online/cloudbased proggie? If so I'm not interested as I want something that's stand-alone. I consider my NBN connection too unreliable (after nearly 12 moths they're still trying to find out why I get dropouts!!).

In the manual, at the end where it obviously refers to issues it mentions a "Kha-Zha noise". Made me wonder just what the fault is that causes that....

Check Uwe's posts on here, he makes some nice add-on tables.

I fitted a smaller pulley on my three servos, it's something that is often recommended on here. It will certainly help, but you may still need a pulley reducer setup if you want to sew real slow (or fit a larger pulley in place of the handwheel).

I experimented a bit with BLO but didn't really like it. I had to re-finish the stock on one of my muzzleloaders as the previous owner had varnished it (yuk!). I stripped it back and then used a tung oil-based burnishing oil. This stuff is thin and you have to apply several coats, hand rubbing in between like garypl said. It dries fairly quickly, though, and you can get a finish like glass!

A question for you more experienced folks out there - what is a good free design programme to start with? I really need to start learning how to design things but am reluctant to spend anything until I know I can do it!

If you look at the G40 in Constab's second link you'll see a long threaded bolt down the front that is used to adjust the belt tension. It simply raises or lowers the motor around the pivot on the mounting. Pretty much the same for all servos.

Hi Michaela and welcome to the forum. Others with far greater knowledge than me will chime in, but based on what you've written the 3200 sounds like a good bet. You're right in that while the Cobra Class 4/Cowboy 3500 will certainly handle the heavy stuff you will probably have trouble using them on lighter material. Some on here can do it, but I believe it needs a bit of fiddling around to do so.

Bailey, stick to the advice available on this forum and you're not likely to go wrong. There is a lot to learn about Industrial sewing machines and this is the place to learn. Keep looking, something will eventually turn up (a nice cylinder arm walking foot with a servo motor is always a good start ).

The motor is a "capacitor start" type, hence the capacitor (silver tube) which is used to give a phase shift to get the motor started. It's possible that the capacitor has dried out a bit (happens as they age) and may affect the starting of the motor. Modern motors usually have the cap. built in, not mounted outside. I agree with replacing the motor, as it's obviously pretty old and may start giving other problems. A servo is really the best mod you can do to a walking foot machine.

They do a very good job of NOT showing anything that can identify just what it actually is! It's what I would call a con job!

Making stamps is an interesting thought. There are different types of filament available including one with carbon fibre in it, which should be pretty tough. I made an inertial bullet puller using the "standard" PLA filament and am surprised at how much abuse the PLA can take, although for a stamp it probably won't be smooth enough (although the surface can be sanded a bit). I really need to learn how to design things....

I built my own and knowing absolutely nothing about them before it was quite an experience!! The good thing about building one is you learn a lot about how they work and get a better understanding of how to keep it working. Coming to grips with the software was a bit overwhelming at first (and I'm not talking 3D creating software, I haven't got that far yet!) but eventually I got there. I just printed an indexing wheel for my lathe and only took 10 hours to print!!!!! I'm impressed that Uwe got straight into 3D designing.

Should still work, my Pfaff did, best thing is to try it. At least with Singers feet are readily available.

Mizzy, that is a binding attachment. A tape (usually cloth) is fed in from the right and the u-shaped thingy causes it to fold over on the edge of the material and it's then stitched provide a neat finish along the edge. On my Pfaff it's a bolt-on attachment, I'm guessing that with the Singer you'd normally replace the entire piece including the part it was welded to. Someone with more knowledge of these will probably clarify this. If you're going to run it without the binder then you'll probably need to replace the feet and the feed dog assembly (I did on the Pfaff).

Mizzy, hubby's garage must look like Aladdin's Cave! It should be possible to replace the a wheel with a presser foot, best thing is to post photos of the parts so that the experienced gurus on here can tell you exactly what's needed.

It does look interesting, it would be nice to see it working.

Single Action, or Cowboy Action, is a form of competition using pistols, rifles and shotguns from the American West, i.e. single action revolvers, lever action rifles and double barrel shotguns. In the case of the shotguns it's often necessary to reload one or more times in a stage, so easy withdrawal of the shells (in pairs) is a must. For hunting this style of cartridge retention isn't the best as it can be quite easy to lose the shells!! Elastic will certainly work for what you want to make but each loop will need to be stitched or rivetted. In my opinion the simplest way is to form the loops by feeding in and out of a slot in the belt and then rivetting the ends. All you have to do is work out the thickness of the leather you're going to use for the loops and buy a suitable slot punch.

Thingyverse has a huge amount of stuff posted there! Now all you need to make are the Singer-type corner pieces and you should have all the bases covered.

What size and type of thread are you using?

Thanks for making the files available Uwe, I'll add them to my collection. The "standard" PLA filament used in home printing is surprisingly strong. Edit: I had to join to download them. Is there a reason you put them there and not Thingyverse (which is where most seem to post 3D files)?

Shotgun belts are fiddly things to make, in my opinion. Red Cent has posted a couple of nice ones on here somewhere. Are they for Single Action shooting or hunting use? If you make them with loops then you will need a strip below the loop to stop the cartridges going in too far if they're for SA. For SA they need to be just tight enough to hold them without falling out but so they can be removed easily, for hunting you want them tighter so you don't loose them! For SA most prefer them in pairs and some make "pouches", which I think work better but are definitely fiddly to make! You can also make them as slides, so they are independent of the belt. Elastic will work although some prefer all leather (more traditional). A few thoughts, perhaps a bit more info on its intended use?

Best way to bend a bolt is to heat it at the bend point first, this removes any stresses and ensures it won't break/fracture. As long as the bolt is mild steel, however it can be bent with brute force, either holding it in a (solid) vice and hitting it with a big hammer or slide a long piece of pipe over it and pull! The only thing you have to watch is that you don't damage the threads (I've had to make a couple myself).

While ornate and heavily worked items can certainly look impressive, there's something about a simple clean design that just speaks of elegance. Nicely done.

It's certainly easier than messing around stitching loops! I guess some might like the look of stitched loops better, but I figure it's only a loading strip so as long as it's functional I see no point in spending too much time on one.