dikman

Neat. The flared leather, to line up with the guard, is an interesting style.

I was given a 51W59, similar but had a cutter next to the post to undercut the leather as it went. I took off the cutter (not needed) and persevered with it for some time before coming to the conclusion it wasn't suited to what I wanted to do. Broke a few needles in the process! It was my first industrial machine and got me started down the slippery slope of industrial (leather) sewing machines.

Try and fit the smallest pulley you can find to the motor - 2" or less - as it all helps. You'll probably need a shorter belt too. Just watch the weight of the clutch motor when you remove it, they're heavy!!

Ummm, I had to build a small shed to put them in . And there's still one in the main garage 'cos I haven't got enough room! Anyhow, I reckon you've done well, Jnap.

Be interested to see what you can come up with. I've tried to visualise the possible options and reckon whatever you do it's likely to look a little "odd". It's one thing to put boolit loops on a holster, but a knife sheath....?

Just re-read this and realised you're not quite comparing similar machines, as the Consew 225 is comparable to a 111W155, whereas the 111W154 doesn't have the material handling capability of the W155 (I really should read a bit slower!!). That makes the Consew the much better buy, in my opinion.

Many of the older Consew's were made by Seiko and were basically Singer clones, nothing wrong with that. Consew's are generally considered to be good machines. According to the manual the 225 has 1/2" lift, should take #138 thread and is manually oiled. Me, I would take the Consew over the Singer (assuming it works, of course). Fit a servo and you'll be happy as the proverbial! If you're mechanically able then armed with a suitable manual and the able assistance of this forum you shouldn't have too many problems adjusting and maintaining either one.

Performance-wise both of those machines should be pretty much the same. The Consew is showing less paint wear, which suggests it hasn't been used as much so might be the better buy (although you would need to buy a servo, as you say). As for using #138 thread, you need a bigger needle (size 22/23) and may need to adjust the hook timing a little, although my machines take #69 and #138 without needing adjusting.

I would have been surprised if it hadn't been mentioned, it's generally one of the first things suggested.

I have attached a parts list for the 31-15. Look at the 2nd. drawing, part #43944, it's a horseshoe-shaped piece that actually operates the missing pin. Make sure that piece is there, as I had the same problem with my 31K20 and that piece was missing! I had to make a new one, which was a bit of a pain!! 31-15.pdf

A cylinder arm (with a table of some sort) will be the most versatile option, particularly if you're limited to one machine for a while. I bought a Chinese knock-off of a basic patcher (because it seemed like a nifty machine for the money) but I've never used it! I'm sure it'll be useful one day, but it is pretty rough on the surface of the leather!

Good description of the process, Dwight, that's exactly how I do it (great minds? ). It's easier than stitching and looks quite neat, plus the spacing of the slots determines how close together the loops are.

Very nice job on the holsters. The belt is a different colour, is that intentional?

Don't know about the pigskin, but I'm using Kangaroo hide on some loops, as it's very thin and tough for its weight.

If the price is right it's probably a pretty good way to get started (although a cylinder arm is certainly more versatile).

In the movie "The Professionals" Lee Marvin had a belt with two buckles, one on each end of the belt, and the "tongue" was a separate piece that went between the two buckles. I've seen something similar somewhere else, but can't remember where.

Yes, there is a reason this couldn't be done - it would be a complex bit of gear. DC servos generally use Pulse Code Modulation to control the motor, such a controller is not something you can whip up quickly. I'm surprised that the minimum speed is 500 rpm as mine can be set much slower (different brand). There is a speed reducer that consists of an open box that bolts in place of the motor and the motor then bolts to the bottom of the box, with the reducing pulleys mounted to the box. Probably the simplest way to mount a speed reducer, I think some of the advertisers here sell them.

I just had a look at that Brian and yeah, looks nice, if I had that I could get rid of most of my machines . 1/2" under the foot is pretty good, and while it says max #138 thread I wonder if it could manage #207 in the top with a bit of tweaking? Anyhow, for what Deryk wants to make I reckon #138 should be fine. Unfortunately, if it was available here I reckon it's going to cost a lot more than that price, so I guess I'll be sticking with what I've got.

Generally, people use a slightly smaller thread in the bobbin when they're trying to use a heavier thread than the machine is designed for. For example, if the machine is only intended to use #138 as the max size sometimes, on some machines, you might get away with #207 on the top and 138 on the bottom - maybe. Most normally just use the same top and bottom.

Don't feel bad, with every holster you make you learn a bit more. (I know I do!).

Nice job. From an aesthetics viewpoint I would agree with plinkercases - I reckon the top of the holster front should curve down a bit, it would show more of the gun and break up the straight edge. Lot of work in the stamping.

Thanks Wiz, I do know how to save images (I do it a lot!) but for some reason it didn't come up with the usual "save as" options only as "save as HTML". I just tried it again and now it works!!!! Gotta love computers but sometimes they drive me nuts!

Thanks mate, good stuff. I have a couple of those already but you've got it all nicely assembled in one. Wiz, for some reason I couldn't save the images () which is why I asked.

Yetibelle, do you have those available as printable charts? Would be very handy 'cos these days I can't remember stuff like that!

It raises the obvious question - what on earth would anyone do with a 5-9? (Besides look at it).