dikman

I just had a look at that Brian and yeah, looks nice, if I had that I could get rid of most of my machines . 1/2" under the foot is pretty good, and while it says max #138 thread I wonder if it could manage #207 in the top with a bit of tweaking? Anyhow, for what Deryk wants to make I reckon #138 should be fine. Unfortunately, if it was available here I reckon it's going to cost a lot more than that price, so I guess I'll be sticking with what I've got.

Generally, people use a slightly smaller thread in the bobbin when they're trying to use a heavier thread than the machine is designed for. For example, if the machine is only intended to use #138 as the max size sometimes, on some machines, you might get away with #207 on the top and 138 on the bottom - maybe. Most normally just use the same top and bottom.

Don't feel bad, with every holster you make you learn a bit more. (I know I do!).

Nice job. From an aesthetics viewpoint I would agree with plinkercases - I reckon the top of the holster front should curve down a bit, it would show more of the gun and break up the straight edge. Lot of work in the stamping.

Thanks Wiz, I do know how to save images (I do it a lot!) but for some reason it didn't come up with the usual "save as" options only as "save as HTML". I just tried it again and now it works!!!! Gotta love computers but sometimes they drive me nuts!

Thanks mate, good stuff. I have a couple of those already but you've got it all nicely assembled in one. Wiz, for some reason I couldn't save the images () which is why I asked.

Yetibelle, do you have those available as printable charts? Would be very handy 'cos these days I can't remember stuff like that!

It raises the obvious question - what on earth would anyone do with a 5-9? (Besides look at it).

From what I've read repairing horse blankets can do nasty things to sewing machines as the blankets are generally filled with all sorts of grit and hair.

I don't have any experience with any of these machines, but from my perspective the Techsew would be the better choice in the long run - if the finances permit! Within reason you should be able to sew "lighter" things on it, but you can't sew heavy stuff on a medium-weight machine. There's always the chance that you may come across a "medium-weight" walking foot going for a good price later on, should you feel you still need one.

If you operate the foot pedal just a little (not enough to engage the clutch) it should release the brake in the clutch motor, allowing the pulley to turn.

Dang! Another word I had to look up!

They almost got the word right - it's spelt cylindraceus. Unfortunately, for them, it has nothing to do with cylinders, it variously refers to a species of cactus, salamander or parasite among others. My contribution of useless trivia for the day.......

G'day Deryk, the ad contradicts itself, advertised as 110v but then it says it doesn't come with the motor! Anyhow, it's what is referred to as a patcher, very good for boot/shoe repair and sewing patches on jackets (Wiz always says this) but not really intended for the type of work you're doing. By the time you buy a suitable table and motor it will end up not quite so cheap (or portable). I doubt if it would be a lot of use for what you're doing.

Yep, that's the place, bit like an Aladdin's Cave when you walk in there, stuff everywhere! They have a limited range of thread in M20, I'd have to check on what I've got in thread but I think it's mostly poly. Needle size is 22/23 for the bigger thread.

Here in Oz we generally use the Metric designation for thread size - M40 = #69 (US size), M20 = #138. M40 is probably the most common size used on the 335, but I have used M20 on mine. Thread can be difficult to find here, but I've bought thread from here - http://www.theshanngroup.com/- although you will need to set up a business account to deal with them. I've also bought thread from a leatherwork supply place here in Adelaide.

The holsters are probably the determining factor as they need a heavy duty machine, as bikermutt said a Cobra or Cowboy, for example. As he also said the best thing is to talk to some of the dealers who frequent/sponsor this site, as they have demonstrated time and again that they will give good advice and won't try and talk you into something that isn't suitable for your needs. Might be quicker than wading through lots of posts and possibly confusing yourself .

I wonder how many of us have done that?

Yep, I agree, very nice job indeed! I can't believe how you managed to get all the bright metal parts so clean!

Bloody hell, mike, that is scary stuff! I'll definitely be sticking to enamels, acrylics and lacquers! When I was a wee kiddie (an awful long time ago!) my dad worked at a glass factory, he was also caretaker so I used to wander around the (very large) factory with him. I still remember one room, it had some very large vats in it full of steaming, noxious stuff. The factory did their own silvering of mirrors, which is what the room was for. Very few do silvering anymore, due to the chemicals required, makes me wonder just what was in there when I was wandering about. Hmmm, might account for the loss of brain cells (along with the alcohol).

Gentlemen, thank you for a most interesting discourse on 2K paints. Whilst they certainly sound great from a durability perspective, after what mike has said I think I'll be giving them a big miss!

I don't see where the problem is - keep both, of course!

Man, what a bargain! It looks great after cleaning, definitely worth the drive. I bought a set of KH feet for my 335, very nicely made feet.

I can't read the spec. plate, but that looks like a brush-type motor. The screw at the top looks like a brush-holder mount, in which case it's the same type as found in electric drills etc. (not induction).

Thanks tt,, now that I look more carefully it's obviously not designed to be tilted back. Silly me.