dikman

Thanks guys. It does use the cylindrical bobbins, so that's one big negative if it doesn't come with extras, and 24 mm (1") of leather is putting it into the realms of the Cowboy 4500, and it definitely is not in that class! That info. I printed comes from a Singer publication relating to the 42 class. Mike, that ismacs listing also says it is for "saddle stitching", whatever that means. I think the reason that the 42-7 isn't in that parts list is because it doesn't have alternating pressers so is different to those other models.The guy wants $400, and it's been listed for a while so I don't think it's going anywhere soon. Based on what Wiz has said unless it was virtually being given away I don't think I'll touch it. Besides, I've just been spending quite a bit recently getting my bike (2005 Bonneville) up to scratch, plus I've just bought an 1866 lever-action rifle (lots of $$$!), so I think maybe I'd better stop looking - unless a machine pops up as too good to resist!!

Just curious. Someone is advertising a Singer 42-7 and claims it can sew two layers of 12mm leather (which I find hard to believe). I can't find out much abut this model, other than Can anyone shed any more light on this one?

I would hazard a guess that tapping into the wood was slightly askew? At least, that's what's happened to me when I've used a similar process.

Sounds like a good deal, I'd say you've done well. They are a nice solid machine. I ended up replacing the handwheel on mine with an 8" pulley, might look funny but it can go slow with lots of torque. Now you just have to buy lots of needles and lots of thread .

Good one. That's what it's all about . As for the "orbital action" I'm sure the leather won't care!

Yeah, looks good, no paint wear on the baseplate that I can see. Slowly rotate the wheel by hand to make sure nothing is binding and everything is moving as it should, if you feel any tightness stop and find out what it is. Remove the bobbin and make sure it's all clean in there. As Constabulary said, get a manual, must have a manual! As to what to avoid - DON'T start loosening screws until you understand what you're doing.

Jeff, screw threads on Singers are often proprietary (i.e. their own weird thread) so the chances of getting them local, other than at a sewing machine place, is probably nil. The foot that you bought, does it fit except for facing the wrong way (screw hole lines up)? If it does can you rotate the mounting bar 90 degrees? They are often only held in place with assorted clamps.

No worries. Normally shipping from China to Oz takes anywhere from 3-5 weeks, this one came in just over a week!

That's bizarre! Looking at the exclusions it seems like most of the world is excluded!!! If you look on ebay there are others who sell these things, I'm sure some will post to the US.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drawing-Ruler-Template-Drawing-Round-Circle-Quilting-Patchwork-Stationery/132252951069?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Got it slightly wrong, it was $2.90 and it's now gone up to a whopping $3.80 (Aus). I did find others when I was looking, this was the cheapest then but prices do fluctuate on ebay. 480volt, those are very classy.

In another thread Red Cent mentioned he used a Quilter's template to aid in making his stitching pattern. Seemed like a good idea, but when I finally found one it was a tad expensive (over AU$30), so I spent some time on ebay and eventually found this - $2 shipped from China. Good enough for me. Max. diameter is 120 mm, about 4 3/4".

If you're making clothes, making/repairing rugs, sails, tarpaulins etc then a flatbed on a large table will make it much easier to handle the material. For what we do a cylinder arm has a bit more flexibility, but it's not essential.Many on here are happily using a flatbed for their work. My suggestion is to read as much on here as you can, looking at which machines members are using and what works for them. You will see that the same brands/models often tend to get mentioned. Make a list of what will suit you and then start looking to see what's available.Sometimes it can take a while until the right machine appears (unless you're very lucky, occasionally we've all had that happen ).

You've sort of got it right with your photo, basically there is the needle bar, an outer foot and an inner foot. You can do belts on a cylinder arm. Some people make a small table to fit around the arm so it acts as a flatbed. There are photos on the site showing these (Uwe makes a really nice one). Either cylinder arm or flatbed will work for you, it's a matter of what you can find (and afford). For most of us this is only a hobby, although it can get expensive if the "machine collecting bug" bites!

Elizabeth, you definitely DO need a lathe . Anyone who is a "cheap-skate" will find one invaluable. (Might be cheaper than some of your student stuff, unfortunately I suspect it rates low on your list of priorities at the moment).

Thanks cobber, excellent write-up. I've seen these 555's come up from time to time, but have ignored them because they don't suit my needs.I'll keep my eyes open now, 'cos if I can get one (or similar with the Efka servo) at a good price I now know I can use the motor. That stand looks the same as my Singer, except without Singer on it. Really nice stand.

Not a cheap-skate (a term usually applied by people who are incapable of making their own "stuff" and are probably just jealous anyhow). I take a great deal of pleasure in fabricating my own gear, when possible. Guess it's how I was brought up.

" It's like accessories don't really add any value when buying used" . Applies to other things too, when I traded in one of my motorbikes (on another one) the salesman said to strip off all the extras because they'll give me the same price, with or without them! If there are extras the buyer usually gets the benefits, but the seller doesn't. I remember the Shopsmith's from many years ago (when I used to read Popular Mechanics). Always wanted one but 1) couldn't get them in Oz and 2) too expensive anyhow for me.

If you can only have one machine a cylinder arm is more versatile, but a flatbed should do what you want to do - except holsters, don't even think about doing holsters on any machine unless it is heavy duty. Most machines in the "medium weight" range should have a lift around 10 mm. You need to look for industrial walking foot machines, ignore anything else regardless if the seller says things like "industrial quality", "semi-industrial" etc.

Constabulary is right, that tab must be in the notch on the bottom of the needle plate or it won't work (personal experience here - more than once!!).

You're not the first to do that, and I can guarantee that you won't be the last!

I reckon a book like that would have some members on here positively salivating.......

If all your information suggests a particular needle size, but it doesn't fit, my first thought would be that someone has reset the needle bar to take a different size needle. Can you reset the bar for the needles you bought?

Only negative I can see is that access may be an issue, as most motorised burnishers usually have the wheel hanging over the edge of a table which gives better access for long pieces (belts).

No worries, Brian, only too happy to help. Don't forget you sent me those thread samples, at no charge, when I was first trying to understand thread sizes, types and what would work in my machines.

I can't comment on the other machines (model numbers would be nice) other than to say Seiko and Adler make some nice machines. I see this one has the binding attachment, if he's going to supply the plain walking feet you want to see it set up first to make sure it has the correct needle plate and replacement cover where that binding plate fits. Also, it looks like it has a clutch motor, you really need to factor in a servo motor if you can as it will be much easier to learn to use.