dikman

I think I've finally got this thing sussed out (it doesn't help that there's virtually no information on these old ones). I'll post it here so anyone searching on Pfaff 335 will find it. After a lot of adjusting and re-adjusting I've found that when it's set to operate correctly, i.e. the tension discs release when the lifting lever is operated, there is 1/4" (6mm) clearance under the feet. Any thicker leather and the outer presser foot will go higher and start releasing the tension discs! If the release pin is removed and the curved slotted arm on the back is adjusted then you can fit 5/16" (8mm) under the feet. If you leave the pin in it will release tension during a stitch cycle. If the release pin is removed, the slotted arm adjusted and the arm (next to the yellow arrow in my pic) re-adjusted on the outer presser foot shaft, as mine was, then you can just squeeze 3/8" (10mm) under the feet. For the second and third options you will need a manual tension release like mine has. It looks like mine was deliberately set up for maximum clearance under the feet, but I decided to compromise and set mine to 5/16" as at 3/8" the needle bar is almost hitting the leather during stitching.

Yep, that's them.

You just HAD to go and show a serpentine pattern again, didn't you!! Damn, but you do nice work Josh!

My first thought is something in the thread path is causing the tension (probably upper) to vary slightly during stitching. Can you attach a photo showing your thread path? (It will help the more experienced here to diagnose the problem). There can't be too much wrong.

Don, I agree but was perplexed because it was like this when I bought it (it had been used in a small factory then eventually replaced) and I made an assumption that it had been correctly adjusted but something must have broken. Jimi's photos showed that the correct parts were fitted and nothing was broken, so as you said the lifter has to be incorrectly positioned on the shaft (I'm guessing it happened a long time ago and no-one knew how to fix it so removed the tension release pin and fitted a manual version). Now I know (at last) what to play with to fix it .

I'm the same.

Type of machine?

I found some on ebay (from China), weren't very dear and I just picked an assortment of sizes.

My book just arrived! Looks to be in perfect condition and even has a clear plastic covering to protect the cover. I'm stoked!! A lot of books/magazines are downloadable these days (which saves a lot of physical storage space!!) but there's something nice about having an actual book in your hands.

Jimi, a couple of photos. Plinker, apologies for a partial hijack First photo shows everything assembled, second I've removed the unnecessary bits.The arrow points to the hole where the push rod fits, the sliding part in front is attached to the outer presser foot lifting shaft, you can see the cutout so the push rod isn't activated with the presser foot down. Third photo is the outer presser at the top of its stroke during a normal stitch cycle. As you can see, there's no way to stop the rod being pushed and releasing tension during normal use. As I said, I'm slightly perplexed by this as it appears to be deliberately designed to operate this way.

This is my chart. The slot width will depend on the thickness of the loop leather, as I'm currently using Kangaroo (which is thin but tough) my slots are not very wide. I use dividers to step out the spacing. Between Dwight's measurements and mine this should give you a good place to start.

I'll have a look later, noob. Dwight is right in that the spacing isn't critical you just have to make sure that there is enough clearance between the loops so that they can sit properly with cartridges inserted. I just tried a few on scrap leather until it looked right.

Yep, thanks gigi, that makes sense. Careful, plinker, you're one step closer to collecting!. I'm curious to see what other bits came with it.

I agree, it should work. I'll see if I can take a photo or two tomorrow.

The first time I made some loops I had very little idea of what I was doing (pretty normal for me!) and #1 seemed like the right way, as at that stage I hadn't seen any drawings etc like this so made it up as I went. It worked, but next time I tried #2 and find I prefer that as i think it looks neater, but that's just my opinion. I found that by cutting the loop strap slightly oversize for the slot and wetting it down first it fits without showing the slot afterwards and wetting it allows it to sit flatter on the back. As Dwight said if the backing piece is glued then the whole thing becomes more rigid. I also made a "cheat sheet" but drew mine on paper and then laminated it.

I just finished reading your renovation writeup, Jimi, and realised that yours appears to be the same vintage as mine - mine is labelled 17BL. Presumably they pre-date the introduction of the H designation, but I have no idea what the 17 stands for.

Plinker, I simply used a spare pulley that I had to replace the handwheel (coupled with the servo it slows things down quite a bit). I had to make a sleeve as the pulley hole was too big. A 550w motor will be plenty big enough. Jimmy, the hole for the rod is pretty well a "standard" looking hole, the problem appears to be the design of the sliding lifter. I intend to have another look at it sometime simply because it annoys me that I can't figure it out! You can see the tension release lever in the photo, I haven't seen this design in any other photos I've looked at .

Looks pretty much the same as mine, with one obvious difference - on the plate that mounts the thread tensioner mine has a lever behind it and on the right, this is a manual tension release. When I first got it I fitted a rod in the hole behind the tension disk so that it would release when the foot lift lever is operated. Unfortunately, what happens then is that every time the needle bar rises during stitching the tension release operates! Not good. So far I haven't been able to figure it out because I can't see anything wrong/bent/broken. It looks like it's made to do that. Has me puzzled.

I have an older model (quite old, I suspect) and while I could probably squeeze 1/2" under the feet I'm not sure how it would handle it as I think it's designed for 3/8" . I fitted a servo and a larger handwheel and it's actually quite a gutzy machine (it uses an internal gear drive rather than a drive belt). Biggest potential problem is the stitch length as the best I can get is approx. 4mm apart. I have got it to sew #138, but it's happier with #69 thread. It should be fine for belts, bags and sheaths as long as you don't go too thick. Holsters might work, depending on what you have in mind. If you're thinking about your typical Cowboy Action holster, then no. If you can get one at a good price then they are a pretty nice machine to add to the workshop.

Yeah, I'm feeling pretty chuffed. Occasionally I have a win.....

Thanks Darren, sort of what I figured.

Deryk, Darren and I are in Australia, which is why I asked. The prices in the US can't always be relied on even as a guide.

I've been searching for this book for ages and I've finally got a copy (or will have when it's delivered). The book isn't readily available here in Oz (so would be a special order, with all the costs that entails) and I don't consider getting it from the US to be an option - high cost of the book and exorbitant postage charges. So you can imagine my surprise when, three days ago, I saw a copy for sale on ebay (and it was here in Oz). Starting bid was $19, with no bids, so I bided my time and waited until about four hours to go and put in a bid. Nerve-wracking wait, but I got it! No other bids, plus $15 postage, so I'm happy!

Out of curiosity, Darren, any idea yet of pricing?

Does that mean you can grill lunch while you're welding?