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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. dikman
    Deryk, Darren and I are in Australia, which is why I asked. The prices in the US can't always be relied on even as a guide.
  2. dikman
    I've been searching for this book for ages and I've finally got a copy (or will have when it's delivered). The book isn't readily available here in Oz (so would be a special order, with all the costs that entails) and I don't consider getting it from the US to be an option - high cost of the book and exorbitant postage charges. So you can imagine my surprise when, three days ago, I saw a copy for sale on ebay (and it was here in Oz). Starting bid was $19, with no bids, so I bided my time and waited until about four hours to go and put in a bid. Nerve-wracking wait, but I got it! No other bids, plus $15 postage, so I'm happy!
  3. dikman
    Out of curiosity, Darren, any idea yet of pricing?
  4. dikman
    Does that mean you can grill lunch while you're welding?
  5. dikman
    Bruce J, yes, it had occurred to me that sitting it lower would probably help overcome arm movement issues - but then if it's too low you'd be bending over all the time to see the stitching! My back wouldn't like that either. Having said that in thinking about it it could suit my needs quite nicely (non-production work) unfortunately even if it becomes available here in Oz I fear the cost would put it out of reach.
  6. dikman
    No need for a photo, Josh I think I've figured out what your stamp looks like.
  7. dikman
    Thanks Josh, I just tried using a beveller on the cut line and it helped by giving me an actual edge to use as a guide. Now to look for a cut-type beveller for the swivel knife. Any chance you can post a photo of your stamp? The one I made is half an hourglass, so I'm curious what you use.
  8. dikman
    I thought it looked like flint.
  9. dikman
    I think I've finally got a pattern template that looks like it should work (well, it does with cardboard), but having drooled over Josh's stunning stamping I decided I have to do a serpentine pattern. After three attempts at making a stamp I have one that works ok, but (there's always a but, it seems) I'm finding it's particularly difficult to use. I've tried using cut lines as guides, and scribed lines, but it's not easy achieving a consistent appearance.It's made me appreciate even more Josh's superb stamping. At this stage I'm not about to try it on my holster so I'll come up with a pattern that is more forgiving i.e. if it doesn't quite line up perfectly it won't be too obvious!
  10. dikman
    Hmm, some people are slow learners......
  11. dikman
    Nice work. That rock it's sitting on is rather interesting looking.
  12. dikman
    As one gets older some things that used to be considered portable seem to magically put on weight........
  13. dikman
    An interesting machine, and I wouldn't mind one, but I suspect the price is likely to be such that as koreric says I'd be better off coughing up the extra for a "proper" machine. That arm movement could be an issue for some, as I know that after a half hour on a reloading press my arm is starting to complain. Small pieces/short runs would probably be ok, but stitching a belt could be an issue.
  14. dikman
    If I can offer some advice (bear in mind I've had "some" experience with industrial sewing machines but I still consider myself a rank amateur at this stuff) if you think you're likely to end up sewing leather goods by machine then don't mess around, look for a medium-class walking foot machine - Singer 111/211 class, Consew 206, Seiko 8DB etc or Pfaff 335 (or equivalent) if you want a cylinder arm. These will do the type of sewing you mention and with a bit of tweaking should handle up to #138 thread. If you buy a straight stitcher it won't take long to realise it's limitations on leather. Also, get a servo motor. You might have a natural ability to control a clutch motor on leather (if you're lucky), but most don't and they can be pretty scary and frustrating to learn to control. I find it's enough to worry about getting a nice stitch line without fighting a motor that wants to travel at warp speed! If you think you're likely to want to start collecting industrial sewing machines then by all means buy one of these to start with, but be warned once you start it's a very slippery slope!
  15. dikman
    Nice looking machine, something just a little bit different.Looks to be in pretty good condition, judging by the paintwork.
  16. dikman
    Thanks LD2, guess I'm about to find out....
  17. dikman
    Thanks for that, Lobo. I've watched some of the "fast-draw" things on youtube, and while they are impressive (in their own way) they do nothing for me. My abilities in Single Action are such that even with a fast-draw holster I've still got Buckley's chance of winning!. As my interest has grown I've found that I'm getting interested in the more traditonal style of holster. I can see where I'll end up with several different styles of holster/gunbelt combos (one for every day of the week! ).
  18. dikman
    I've resurrected this 'cos I'm still working on it!! In the intervening time I've bought a couple of Ruger Vaquero's, 5 1/2" barrels so I've decided to make Mexican loops for these. My pattern looks promising, but I've just realised that I've got about a 3" drop from the belt, which seems excessive for a loop style? I can shorten it a bit and still make it fairly easy to get the pouch through the loops. Question: should a Mexican Loop have minimal drop? I should add that I like having the holster hang a bit lower. Also, does this style work as a cross-draw? I don't think I've seen any photos used like this.
  19. dikman
    Also, it sort of looks like the Adler equivalent of a Pfaff 335? If it is it may have a pretty short stitch length like my Pfaff.
  20. dikman
    I see nothing in it's favour - too expensive, would need the binding fittings replaced with "standard", need a new servo, has small bobbin. Koreric probably has the best idea.
  21. dikman
    I have a comb binder (for making booklets etc) and the front covers are A4 size thin acetate. If I don't want the layers of something to stick straight away I place pieces of this between the layers then gradually remove them as I work down the two pieces. I like the idea of making one piece overwidth, never thought of that (duh!).
  22. dikman
    I had a 31K20 and that part was missing so I had to fabricate my own (copied from the parts pictures). Mine definitely didn't release the thread tension on the down-stroke and it worked fine. None of my machines do that.
  23. dikman
    Mizzy, probably would have been better if you handwheeled it, it's a bit to fast for me to figure out which way it's going (Brian's obviously got better eyes than me).
  24. dikman
    Urk. That video was a bit hard to watch, glad it was short.
  25. dikman
    Ouch! Is there any substantial stress at that point? If not JBWeld will certainly give a neat finish. Any chance of fitting a supporting bar (or two) underneath the area? They could be glued on to give a bit of support or drilled through and screwed on. Obviously welding would the be the ideal solution - if you know someone who can do it properly!
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