dikman

Thanks Bob. I would consider 69 thread to be a bit limiting. It's obviously not much use for heavier gunbelts?

Nearly as good as McGyver .

Definitely a Juki, he said he bought the pair together and spent a heap getting the straight stitch working. I've asked him to check the model number.

You might be right. Just when I thought I was beginning to understand thread sizes..........

Amazing bit of work, Uwe. Thanks for doing it. Having spent what seems like hours messing around with needle/hook settings, in order to understand what actually happens down there, it's great to see it happening.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?shipCountry=AU&shipFromCountry=au&shipCompanies=&SearchText=sewing+machine+servo+motor&exception=&minPrice=&maxPrice=&minQuantity=&maxQuantity=&isFreeShip=y&isFavorite=n&isRtl=n&isOnSale=n&isBigSale=n&similar_style=n&similar_style_id=&isAtmOnline=n&CatId=0&initiative_id=SB_20150921145713&needQuery=y I've refined the search to free shipping and Australia delivery. If you look at the various models in the listing, the same unit comes without the needle positioner for $201 (just went up a couple of $). They also have a 750 watt (1 hp) for $244 (no needle positioner). It may depend what they have in stock in the local warehouse, as I originally wanted the version with the controller mounted on the motor, but when I tried to put in the order it said it wasn't available. Which turned out to be good, as I prefer what I've got. The standard pulley in Australia is 75mm, which is actually more than adequate for my needs - but I do have a pulley reduction system fitted, so I doubt if the smaller one is needed. If you want the smaller one, make a note in the comments section when you place the order. Just make sure that you select the 220v model, not the 110v!

Thanks Eric, that's what I suspected. The fact he hasn't used it for quite a while means he's probably confused about the model. I'll let him know that he'll have to check the number on it (but he's adamant that it's a walking foot).

Regarding the original question, I do neither - I run the work (very slowly) through a sewing machine, without thread. This gives me even hole spacing, straight lines, is quicker than manually marking/punching and makes it much easier to get the awl through. Sticks, if you're referring to Metric 20 thread, I would think that would look like rope on a watch strap!

Is there such a model? I haven't had much success searching on that model number, so hope someone can help out. A chap is selling his two machines, a Juki DDL 555 straight stitch and he thinks the other is a DDL 554. It's in storage at his folks, so he's going to have a look at it. He said it's a walking foot, with about a 20mm lift on the foot. He didn't use it much, apparently, he mostly used the straight stitcher.

As I mentioned, my motor came with the large (3") pulley, and I asked for the smaller one instead. The small one arrived today, via courier from China, only took 4 days. Value of the pulley, $1, shipping cost $?? Pretty impressive service. I thought it would be 2", but it's about 1 3/4".

Your eyes do appear to have a slightly glazed look..... . (Many many years ago I made a wooden carrying case for a rifle and lined it with foam. I learned what happens if you spend too long leaning over the stuff while using contact glue! Wheee..... .

Some photos. I've played around with it a bit more, and I'm very pleased with it. I've probably been pushing my machine past what it's designed for, so any issues have been due to that. I tried a size 21 needle, with 138 thread, and got it through 1/4" of leather, although it balked a couple of times due to the hardness of the leather, the main problem being that one of the belts started slipping (the motor kept going). No problems with torque. I slowed the start speed setting even more, and it will now walk very slowly right from startup. I've also reduced the top speed, as I don't need a machine that sews at light speed!! Considering its size (it's only a fraction of the size and weight of the Singer clutch monster that it replaced) I'm very impressed. Silverback, unless the main shaft end of your machine is threaded to take a bolt, you won't be able to use the synchronizer, so I'd just buy one without it and save $50. I don't see the lack of it as being a problem, due to the much improved slow speed control.

Silverback, I did a search on AliExpress.com (the Chinese equivalent of ebay) and came up with this - http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20150921145713&SearchText=sewing+machine+servo+motor. The first one is the one I bought. There are others slightly cheaper, but this lot (Lishui Skyrit import and export) ship from an Australian warehouse, took 6 days from Sydney to Adelaide, which is pretty good for Australia Post!

My Chinese servo motor just arrived. Yay. I didn't get it until pretty late in the day, but couldn't wait to hook it up and see what happened. I was a wee bit concerned, as even though it's rated at 500 watts it's pretty small (but then, the DC motor on my vertical mill is small, but works very well). I turned it on and nothing blew up, which is always a good start! I have a pulley reduction system on the machine, but even with that it seemed to start with a bit of a lurch - not quite what I expected, so I figured I should read what passes for a manual. Quite a few parameters to fiddle with, but it turns out that most are only effective if the needle synchronization is used. I worked out what a couple probably do and reduced the setting on one and lo and behold, it started very slowly. Much nicer. I tried putting pressure on the handwheel and it didn't have any effect, so it looks like it's got gobs of torque. I called it quits until tomorrow when I will try it on some leather. I spent the extra to get one with the needle synchronization, but unfortunately it turns out I can't use that feature on my machine. The synchronization "module" is designed to mount on the end of the main shaft, but because mine has the stitch length adjuster in the centre of the handwheel there's no way I can fit it!! It also came with a 3" pulley, but I had asked for the 2" instead. They said that the Australian warehouse only has 3" versions, so they are sending me a 2" via courier. I'll post a couple of photos tomorrow and let y'all know how it goes with some leather. I'm feeling cautiously optimistic.

I won't start a discussion on Japanese swords, but yes, they have been described as the pinnacle of sword making. As for the boxcutter, if it works for you that's all that matters. I have found that cutting leather, particularly thicker stuff, is a lot different to cutting other materials, and some of the implements that I thought would work have proven to be quite inadequate. I now have an odd assortment of blades that I use - Stanley knife, el-cheapo box cutter, cheap "hobby knife" kit off ebay that will take scalpel blades, disposable scalpels, Olfa rotary thing and basically anything else that I find that might work. Best thing I've found, though, is using the strop that I made - it makes a heck of a difference to blades that are used to cut leather. All good fun.

Thanks ferg, it's a bit of an experiment. The servo is from China, price was good, so I'm curious to see how it will perform. As for the other machines, I don't really need a walking foot machine (but another toy would be nice to have!!) so I'll just keep looking and if I miss out I won't loose any sleep over it. There are lots of industrial sewers for sale, some at very good prices, but they are all straight stitchers. Unless I can find a compound walking foot there's no point buying anything else.

Dave, while I've dabbled in knifemaking I definitely don't consider myself a knifemaker (in comparison to those I meet at knife shows). I did it more out of interest, in order to learn how to make one. In the process I've learned a lot about cutting tools and edged weapons, and a bit about sharpening them. (My real interest is Samurai swords). Art's comments about the "voodoo" bit made me smile, because that's certainly been the case in the distant past, but fortunately there is now enough information out there to dispel those myths - if you look, that is. I've also found that knifemakers here are a very generous lot when it comes to sharing knowledge. Also, he's right about the abrasive steels, they are usually diamond coated and work well (I've got one, because in our kitchen it's almost impossible to keep a sharp edge on the knives (!) and being stainless knives are a pain in the butt to sharpen). But a professional wouldn't use one in a fit. Basically, if there's enough carbon in the steel to harden it then you can make a cutting tool (knife) from it. Too much carbon and it can get brittle, too little and it won't harden. As for sharpening, some swear by water stones, some like Arkansas stones, ordinary oil stones, diamond plates - whatever works for you. For cutting leather, however, a strop is probably the best way to get that final edge that's needed. I've found that thin blades work better, and I've been using scalpel blades lately - very thin, so can flex a bit but man, do they cut!!

DavidL, I'm not sure what you mean by "low rc"? Carbon steel blades, as opposed to stainless steel blades, have long been considered by many to be superior in "sharpenability". They may not hold an edge as long as stainless, but they are easier to sharpen and steeling them, or in our case stropping, often should keep them sharp with a minimum of effort. The downside, of course, is that they will rust if not looked after. A buffing wheel can certainly be used to hone an edge - as long as you know what you're doing (a high speed buffing wheel can be an extremely dangerous device if you're not careful). It can also round off an edge, and in extreme cases destroy the temper on thin blades if you get them hot.

Well, that one went too. That's the third ad that I've responded too where the seller has taken their time to get back to me only to say that the ad has finished. Seems obvious that they were too slack to take the ads down once sold! I keep forgetting how ignorant some people can be....... Not a great loss, though, as I have a servo motor coming for my Singer 51W59 (hopefully will make it more manageable on leather).

Yeah, bit unfortunate, but I wasn't going to buy it until I'd found out a bit more about that model first. (I still don't know for sure that it was a 1245!). In the meantime the other ad has suddenly had a "make an offer" thing attached to it - so I offered the same ($900). What is interesting is that the Seiko has been on the board for nearly two weeks, and is unsold. The Pfaff was on maybe two days and sold, so if the Seiko owner was watching it may have finally occurred to them that maybe their price is too high!

All rather irrelevant now as it's been sold!

I can only link to the advert, as it won't let me copy the photos - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/findon/miscellaneous-goods/pfaff-industrial-sewing-machine-binder/1089516209 I'll see if I can find the manual online, as that should tell me the needle/thread size it can handle. I did look at some youtube videos of one, and it looks like it can take some pretty thick thread. Just found the manual for a 1245, but doesn't give the bobbin size. Judging by the videos I don't think it's a huge one, but that's not an issue for me as I won't be doing "commercial" quantities. If it is a 1245 (I've emailed the seller asking for a model number) it looks like it might be a fairly good buy (at least for Australia!!).

More questions (sorry). I'm interested in a Seiko STH-8BL, but I'm waiting to see if the seller will drop their price. In the meantime a Pfaff has just come up for sale, there's no model number given, nor can I see one on the photos, but it appears to be a 1245. Looks to be a late model, pretty good condition, comes with a binder attachment (which I don't need) and is $300 cheaper than the Seiko. (I'm guessing that the Seiko is the older of the two). Which one is considered to be the better of the two? Are their capabilities similar - needle size/thread size /thickness of material they can handle? Both appear to be clutch motors.

I suspect you're right about the tension being the problem. There's really no reason for the timing to go out unless something dramatic has happened.

Thanks Gregg, you've just increased my knowledge on this machine significantly. I was under the impression that it was probably the first of the model range, but it looks like it was possibly the last, as the Consew 206-RB5 is the same machine. It would certainly suit my needs, but I think the seller wants too much and I said to contact me if she decides to drop her price (which she said was firm). The problem is that she said that she has to sell it because of a lack of room, but has admitted that she doesn't really want to sell it!! The solution being to put on a high price, I guess, and see if anyone is silly enough to pay it. Still looking......