dikman

Mike, I agree, that is why I asked for more photos. Whatever that knob is I'm a bit surprised that there aren't any markings around it. I assume the OP has tried it to see what it does? (He hasn't said).

The reason I asked is that a speed control for a clutch motor (which you have) requires complex electronics to provide variable speed, and would likely be in a rather large housing. That doesn't appear to be the case here, as to what that knob does without opening up the switch box I have no idea, sorry.

Do you have better photos of the switch box and motor?

Another nice job, Constabulary. Beats me where you find these old things.

In that case ignore everything past Wiz's first post.

Have you seen Mizzy's beautiful pink and white machines? Might give you some ideas.

Carl, it's your machine and you can do what you like with it, there's no reason you can't paint it how you like (there's no law against it ). A hammertone/wrinkled finish is pretty good for hiding imperfections in the paintwork but other than that it's all down to the aesthetics of the finish. When I repainted mine I just used a smooth satin finish.

Yes, you're looking in the wrong stores, places that sell domestic machines are unlikely to also sell industrial. "Too professional"? By definition industrial machines are professional machines. If you're concerned about recommendations etc the best thing would be to contact the sponsors on this site, they will give you honest advice, based on what you tell them you want to do.

Hence why using a drill press or a sewing machine is a good idea.

As long as it fits I can't see where the problem is, unless you don't like the look of it?

That's quite a reaction, Mizzy!

$2400 for an RB??? Was it gold plated?

Looks good. Is that antler in the centre handle section? Whatever it is it's nicely fitted to the wood. And what's with the stitches that cross from one row to the other? I assume there's a reason for it I just haven't seen that done before.

Awl blade in a drill press is a good idea. I started off using an old Singer domestic machine (201K, hand crank) to punch the holes first, using an ordinary needle, and then used the awl to "widen" the holes for hand stitching. Should work fine with that thickness leather. The advantage of using a machine is it gives nice straight lines.

I don't see any bobbin thread?

Definitely! My wife tolerates my various interests (obsessions?) but has firm views on what comes into the house!

How thick is the leather that he wants to sew? What does he want to make?

Mizzy, you did a beautiful job on those machines! That pink one is really over-the-top! I assume you're doing it just as a hobby?

Holsters. There's that magic word again. Not much can be added to Wiz's reply as it pertains to wallets, which is what you asked. If, however, you also want to sew holsters then that's an entirely different ball-game, as you Yanks say. If you're only talking about pancake-style holsters, IWB/OWB then the 3200 should probably suffice, but if you're considering heavier Western-style holsters then you'll really need something bigger (usually a 441 clone). You'll probably cause yourself a lot of grief if you want to sew thin wallets on these two machines. The simple fact is there is NO one sewing machine that can do it all (unfortunately). You could say it's akin to the Holy Grail for leatherworkers.

Tom, if you're not sure then if you can get to Elizabeth Machines and take your needle with you I'm sure they'll be able to help (they specialise in industrial machines).

I buy my needles from here - https://www.elizabethmachines.com.au/brands/Elizabeth Unfortunately, if you're at Golden Grove then they're on the opposite side of town! Failing that you can order them online via ebay, as Constabulary said you already have all the info you need - system, size, type you want.

The MSDS for Lilly White oil indicates it's an IS0 32 (although I have seen a reference to ISO 22) oil, which is an hydraulic oil. I'm using ISO 68, which is a bit heavier but it's what I had handy and seems to work ok.

That could be very handy for someone having trouble getting the bobbin position correct.

Impressive looking machine.

Horses for courses, as they say , just didn't work for me. I was aware that someone got a speed reducer working with a positioner, I just couldn't remember who, but I think that is an exception as there have been a few who couldn't get it to work (including me). I wouldn't like to just assume it will work with any servo.