dikman

Got kids? Raid their Lego set. There should be all sorts of things in hardware stores that might work with a bit of tinkering, just got to think outside the box, so to speak. You should even be able to find bearings that will slip over the rod, if you want to get hi-tech. As I said, the rod is a great idea as it gives you the flexibility to try different ideas.

Looks good. Your idea of the horizontal threaded rod with the discs sandwiched between nuts and washers is nice, simple but effective and easily adjustable for odd size spools. Much simpler to make than my effort requiring bearings and welding (I tend to over-think and over-engineer things a bit!).

Unfortunately my son-in-law has my router (along with a few other tools ).

Well done cd, you probably saved it from certain demise.

Regarding those hobby cutting mats that you can buy - Aldi have some A4 mats at a good price so I bought four with the intention of gluing them to a board to create a large square mat. To do this I had to cut off one end of each mat to square it up. I figured a few passes with a sharp knife should do it. Nope. The knife was hard work and required sharpening as I went, a round blade craft knife was no better and I ended up using a fine tooth blade in a Dremel to cut through!! The mat is not particularly thick and consists of the outer layers and a thicker inner layer between. I don't know what the inner layer is made of but it's tough!

What a crazy looking stitch! I think I'll stick to my lockstitch (and saddlestitch).

True, unfortunately. Back on topic, FB has it's uses - I am on a closed group that was very helpful when I built my 3D printer - but I rarely use it for anything else as I don't like it. I've turned off every setting that I could find but keep getting "friend " suggestions, usually people that I don't know . Which, of course, I ignore. I can understand Brian trying to get more coverage for his products but their response is so hypocritical it's unbelievable.

Gymnast, you certainly have an inquiring mind! Good video. kgg, I remember your original design because it got me started! Have you posted photos of the final design?

Now that is clever. Bulky, but clever.

You win.

Dunno, maybe eggs will be classified as a restricted weapon.

I like that. Drop bear leather. There could be a marketing opportunity there, Brian. Along those lines the NSW government and police recently created legislation that banned "Zombie knives"! I kid you not, it is written that it is illegal to own knives that are advertised as being intended to kill zombies. Stupidity knows no bounds......

Besides the fact I wouldn't wear anything like that (what's wrong with cowboy boots anyway ) imo the stitching looks terrible. The needle size is way bigger than the "original" and gives it a perforated look. Maybe they should have used heavier thread?

Without a photo of the back I couldn't tell if the linkage was there. Now it's obvious that the "pin" I saw is actually the linkage fitted in the pivot. That's good.

Yep, knee lifter, it's also missing the linkage from the black stud up to the outside lever on the back that does the lifting. The manual might show it? I seem to recall someone using those two front holes for an edge guide, I'm not sure if they bought or made a suitable bracket. Most usually drill and tap the back for the fitting. Looks like you need to make an extended collar to replace (or fit over) the one on the handwheel, then the NP will attach to that. As for the bracket, either drill and tap a suitable hole in the side of the casing or make an extended bar to support it from the table (but you'll have to disconnect it if you tilt the head back).

A bit hard to tell from your photos but the finish doesn't look too bad. I'd be inclined to clean it up as best I could and leave it at that. Potentially probably has more value with the original lettering etc on it.

I'll bet you like watching old stationary/steam engines too. I'd say you've done well getting a wee beastie like that, tt.

For $50 you can't go wrong! Well done.

As I mentioned before, in order to stamp leather it needs to be slightly damp. Dunk it in warm water (in and out, be careful of soaking it as you don't want it to go mushy), leave it for a few minutes then repeat the process. If it doesn't repel the water it should slowly start softening and you should be able to slowly start straightening it. You can't rush this or you could damage the leather. Once you've got it flat it will probably be pretty damp so it needs to dry a little before you start stamping - you want it barely moist, not wet. Adding anything (saddle soap, leather balm, neatsfoot oil etc) could prevent it from absorbing the water. If it's previously been treated with beeswax then you may have a problem!

Being new to leatherwork, I don't think you realise quite what a job you would be setting yourself - and there's no guarantee you could even stamp the leather. Normally leather is cased (pre-dampened with water) so it will take the stamp imprints but there's no way of knowing how this holster has been treated. It may not take up moisture, in which case stamping it won't be very successful. Plus, imo, basketweave is one of the trickiest stamps to use and get a good result with. You would want to do a lot of practice first.

That looks a lot better than it was. You appear to have rounded off the flat part a little, but as long as it works ok is the main thing.

There's a lot of lint there!! You could probably start with a pair of tweezers and pull out as much as you can, then a fine brush and a vacuum to finish off.

The biggest problem you may have is finding suitable screws to attach the plate!

Try using very fine wet and dry paper, used wet, on a piece of glass, you should be able to get them very smooth and then finish off with metal polish. Unless you have a buffing wheel, of course.

If it was me I would temporarily fit a piece of cardboard, plastic or whatever I could find and then do some test runs (needle only, no thread). Measure the stitch holes and mark the strip accordingly. In my limited experience these marks are generally only a guide and not to be relied on if you want accuracy.