dikman

Gunnarsson, if all you want is something to get into tight places and only for occasional use have you considered one of the cheap Chinese patchers? Might be good enough for what you want?

Just had another thought, if the pulley part itself is intact just trim off any bits left by the broken off rim, patch the damaged edges with an epoxy and smooth down. Cheap way of getting it working while you decide what to do.

Unless you're anal about the looks, why not just replace it with a suitable large pulley? Anything else damaged?

I've bought a few generic Singer feet from Chinese sellers and have found I sometimes have to mix'n'match the feet to get them to line up!! Plus a bit of grinding here and there.

Photos always help, shoeboy, then we know exactly what you're talking about.

I can't help you with the feet but generally with industrial machines unless the particular machine is designed to have an onboard bobbin winder in the first place then the chances of fitting one are pretty slim! Quite a few on here have made stand-alone bobbin winders, using various motors and drills to power them.

With a lot of the servos having separate "switch" modules it's probably feasible to figure out some sort of linkage to operate one via a knee control rather than the foot pedal.The beauty of the separate module is they don't have to be mounted in the "normal" position. But I don't know of anyone who has done this.

You both beat me to it, Wiz and Mike.

Biker, I was thinking the same thing. The 3200 appears to rate well with those who have one and appears to be a good fit for kbarker's needs ( the next step up is a 441 and that would definitely be overkill in this case).

That plate looks like it's reversible itself and can be fitted the other way? At least now its obvious that the knob is a rheostat to control a heated foot. Wiz is right, although I'm not sure I'd use the word "customise"! That terminal strip for connecting the wires is functional but not very professional, in fact the whole box looks like a home-made job. If it was mine I'd remove all the wiring and fit a servo. Keep it simple. It's an interesting machine though.

Mike, I agree, that is why I asked for more photos. Whatever that knob is I'm a bit surprised that there aren't any markings around it. I assume the OP has tried it to see what it does? (He hasn't said).

The reason I asked is that a speed control for a clutch motor (which you have) requires complex electronics to provide variable speed, and would likely be in a rather large housing. That doesn't appear to be the case here, as to what that knob does without opening up the switch box I have no idea, sorry.

Do you have better photos of the switch box and motor?

Another nice job, Constabulary. Beats me where you find these old things.

In that case ignore everything past Wiz's first post.

Have you seen Mizzy's beautiful pink and white machines? Might give you some ideas.

Carl, it's your machine and you can do what you like with it, there's no reason you can't paint it how you like (there's no law against it ). A hammertone/wrinkled finish is pretty good for hiding imperfections in the paintwork but other than that it's all down to the aesthetics of the finish. When I repainted mine I just used a smooth satin finish.

Yes, you're looking in the wrong stores, places that sell domestic machines are unlikely to also sell industrial. "Too professional"? By definition industrial machines are professional machines. If you're concerned about recommendations etc the best thing would be to contact the sponsors on this site, they will give you honest advice, based on what you tell them you want to do.

Hence why using a drill press or a sewing machine is a good idea.

As long as it fits I can't see where the problem is, unless you don't like the look of it?

That's quite a reaction, Mizzy!

$2400 for an RB??? Was it gold plated?

Looks good. Is that antler in the centre handle section? Whatever it is it's nicely fitted to the wood. And what's with the stitches that cross from one row to the other? I assume there's a reason for it I just haven't seen that done before.

Awl blade in a drill press is a good idea. I started off using an old Singer domestic machine (201K, hand crank) to punch the holes first, using an ordinary needle, and then used the awl to "widen" the holes for hand stitching. Should work fine with that thickness leather. The advantage of using a machine is it gives nice straight lines.

I don't see any bobbin thread?