dikman

What sort of holsters are you talking about? Holsters are generally made from much thicker leather than bags etc and also require heavier thread, hence the CB3200/4500. There is a sticky by Wiz at the top of this section that discusses the type of machines needed to sew leather, have you read it?

That's different! Nice job.

Neither do I, it's all about experience and learning to judge when it's right. Unfortunately I mis-judged my last one just a tad but as in your case it still works.

I'm interested to see how it works out and how long it holds up. Simple enough to print a couple more and keep a spare handy.

Frodo, if you're referring to me, thanks for the offer mate but as I'm in Australia the shipping would be a killer! Chuck sent me the info to get mine working so another little project.........

Chuck, I would really appreciate the info on the burner, it could save me a lot of time trying to figure one out. As you probably already know a coal/coke forge isn't that complicated to build (heck, I did it) but a lot of knifemakers don't like them because they're messy and can be tricky to control the heat. Plus they need a bit of work when running, if the clinkers buildup in the bottom you suddenly start losing heat and end up with a molten mass of gunk around the fire grate which can contaminate steel. But there's nothing quite like the smell.

Very nice work, Chuck. Stag handles, brass bolsters, polished blade - bit over the top for a skiving knife!!! I've got a partially built gas forge but never got around to finishing it 'cos I just like messing around with the coke forge too much. I mainly need to make the burner, I suppose I should finish it one day. Now you've got me thinking I should make another round knife just so I can fit stag handles, they just look cool.

That can be a problem too. Sometimes the collecting itself becomes the challenge. When I got interested in blacksmithing many years ago I needed an anvil, so I bought one. And another, and another, and.......I have six (!) but fortunately they became hard to find, and expensive, which stopped me. I forgot to mention that I like the sets of drawers, very useful indeed.

Savvas, be best to start a new post then you can keep all your questions and answers in one place. Makes it easier for others too if searching on the same subject.

Regarding Singer SV models, there is virtually no information available about them. The term SV is also subject to some conjecture, the best guesses are Special Version or Special Variation - no-one knows for sure. They could simply be an experimental variation of the standard model or could be a version specifically ordered by a purchaser, again no-one knows for certain. Manuals for SV models appear to be non-existent (if, in fact, any ever existed). SV models are likely to remain an ongoing mystery. Yours, by the way, appears to be in very good condition.

Nice collection. Nothing wrong with collecting, once I get interested in something I have a tendency to start collecting. Unfortunately.

Yep, given it's obvious age it all looks to be in very good condition.

As he sews patches on pocketas.

What a beast!!. That's one thing I like about my coke forge, it makes me think of steam trains.

Ho Hsing are considered to be very good motors but I wouldn't pay for one. I've bought several different servos off ebay/Aliexpress, the last couple around $100, and while they're probably not of the same quality as Ho Hsing they have been more than adequate for my needs. Another possibility, if you buy it, is to use the existing 1425 rpm motor, fit the smallest pulley you can to the motor and buy/make a speed reducer. This will slow it down somewhat. You might also be able to replace the handwheel with a large pulley (I've done this on several machines) and combined with the other two options should slow it significantly. When I was chasing up a 441 clone I spoke to the chap at that company, and while I ended up elsewhere (long story) he was very helpful nevertheless.

Clintonville, what did you use to heat it to harden it? The steel shows signs of having been overheated. I'm only saying this because I just did the same thing when I made my (round) knives, soaked them too long in the forge!

Definitely not a long arm.. These machines aren't a walking foot, they are what's called a jump foot where the foot flicks forward and down to help drag the material along. Obviously a slower motor would be better as it will make it a bit easier to control. Personally, I'm a great believer in servo motors as a newcomer will be able to control the machine right from the start. It's bad enough worrying about where the stitches are going without having to fight a high-speed clutch motor at the same time! Just my thoughts but Bert can advise you better as he actually has one.

I agree. Nice looking machine though, doesn't look like it's been used much.

$2500???? To quote a well known Aussie, tell him he's dreaming!! Got a link to the other one?

Same here. Searching ebay/aliexpress indicated that they all appear to be the same, and though one or two came with an "adaptor plate" it was unclear which models they would fit. I had to make adaptor plates for my Seiko and my Cowboy. No big deal. In answer to your question, I made various magnetic guides but found they were prone to moving if I wasn't careful. They would probably work fine with material but the stiffer leather can put more pressure against the guide.

I decided to make a couple of round knives from a circular saw blade that I had. The blade is at least 40 years old so I figured it should be high carbon steel. I overheated it a bit when re-hardening it as I forgot how tricky it is working with thin steel in the forge. The burning does give a nice pattern on the steel when polished! The left one has applewood for the handle, the right is Blackwood, copper pins and finished with 4 coats of burnishing oil polished on a denim buffer. The shaping of the handles is a bit rough because once they were attached to the blades the blade shape made it awkward to work them. Good enough for me to use but not to sell! Now I just have to sharpen them and make leather sheathes to hold/protect them.

Very nice, both of you! Those mini lathes are very handy for doing small work. Brass will be heavier but is nice to turn and looks very nice when polished.

It's been talked about before but it would be a huge undertaking - which is why it hasn't been done. Sorry. Only thing you can do is when you find something search on here for any relevant posts. As you read more you will slowly begin to understand a bit about different machines, but it's a big subject, Singer alone has a mind-boggling number of machines listed.

Hmm, I didn't think he could do that under State and Federal law. But yes, look elsewhere in that case, I'd be a bit wary of him.

That guy's an idiot then! And if the owner can't get his upgrade so wants to keep it what's the point of leaving it at his mate's? No, they're both idiots. I still think that 211 is a bit dear BUT it's from a dealer so should have some sort of warranty and support. At least you can try it there just be warned that clutch motors are scary things to the uninitiated! Take some scraps of your canvas with you and see how much you can get under the feet. Tilt it back on the hinges and have a look at the timing belt, make sure it's not damaged. He also has a servo for sale on his website but while it's a good one it's pretty dear.