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Everything posted by dikman
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Gymnast, there's no doubt about it, you are a nerd extraordinaire!
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nylonRigging, which model Consew do you have? I can only find 2-button models on their website, the OP picture is a 4-button?
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These codes are are usually different from make to make. Do you have a copy of the manual or instructions listing the codes? JJN 's suggestion makes sense, it has to be something simple.
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Alaskan chest rig
dikman replied to Tmccue3's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Put another rivet in there, you already have one so it won't look out of place. A good start for a first holster, after a while you'll think "hmm, I can do better so I'll make another" and before you know it you're hooked! -
Using a BIG pulley is equivalent to using a reducer, only simpler to make! Ignoring the forging he did (which is not necessary and he obviously only did it because he could) the only possibly trick part is making a new shaft, unless you have a lathe. Should be an interesting exercise Frodo.
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Sewing Machine Purchases and Questions
dikman replied to MzVictoria's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I agree with kgg, while bells, whistles and pushbuttons might be nice I think that for most of us hobbyist/small-time producers a simple basic machine will be cheaper and easier to maintain. If the electronics fail on a complex machine you are faced with either a potentially big bill or ripping it all out to try and make it a basic machine - if indeed it can be done. -
Looks like a fairly generic Chinese servo, similar to one I had but recently sold with a machine. There's no manual, the instructions are printed on the side of the control box. On mine the speed could be adjusted from the front panel using the +/- buttons. I didn't have the needle positioner but the motor worked fine.
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Hi, my name is Bert and I have a problem......
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So how much is it, $150 or $300?
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Original JUKI TSC-441 Instruction Manual and Parts List
dikman replied to RemingtonSteel's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Thanks for that. I collect manuals, I'll add them to the collection. -
Thanks mate. The place it's coming from is halfway to the middle of nowhere (Emerald, Queensland) and a looooong way from me! I'm expecting it by the end of next week. It appears there is no "right way" to wrap around that lower tension assembly as there are a couple of factors to take into account including, as Wiz pointed out, the type of thread. A matter of trying it to see which way works for me.
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That's exactly what Hightex do! As I said, it must create a lot of tension on the thread. It just seems pretty excessive to me? Bert, I've got rifles significantly older than me and they definitely work better than me, given their age!!
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I recall reading earlier posts where this subject was raised and 1 1/2 wraps was said to be the correct way, which is why I was surprised by the Hightex method. It must work (for them) but it's got to be putting a lot of tension on the thread. Does anybody out there actually do it this way?
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As I'm getting one I thought I'd do some homework before it arrives. I watched two videos on youtube about how to thread it - one from Hightex (Ryan) and one from Bob Kovar. Hightex do two full wraps, coming in via the wire guide above the lower tension assembly and then out via the same guide, Bob just does 1 1/2 turns. Hightex has the bobbin thread coming off anticlockwise, Bob runs it clockwise. They can't both be right?
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The link worked for me in Australia. Interesting site, some of those could be worth it for the table and legs alone! Mark, until you have a lot more knowledge about machines I'd suggest you give places like that a miss, too easy to get caught out. You are going to be faced with the same unpalatable truth that many face when starting out - to do what you envisage you'll likely need more than one machine. For the lighter stuff (and might include the chaps, I'm not sure about them) the usual upholstery class machine with 3/8" under the foot and up to #138 thread should suffice. If you intend doing horse tack, which sounds highly likely, then you'll probably need a harness stitcher too (heavy duty sucker!). Having said that, a Cowboy 3200 might come pretty close to doing almost everything, depending on how heavy the horse tack is likely to be. Unless you want to invest a lot of time to learn how to adjust and maintain an industrial machine I'd suggest you consider buying from a reputable dealer who can give you support, whether you buy new or used. There's lifetimes of knowledge and experience on here (not me!) so you've come to the right place to point you in the right direction.
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Obviously not a matched set. The one on the left is larger, with rounded corners and is aligned at the top of the frame, the right is a smaller frame and aligned to the bottom. Chuck 'em out and buy a new set.
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And the reason they take so long to stop is because they have a massively heavy flywheel in them.
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The "scratching" sound is a bit of a puzzle. With these type of motors about the only things that can go wrong are burned out windings, which you would know about by the smell and the minor problem that it would keep blowing fuses/tripping breakers, and seized/shot bearings. The bearings are obviously not seized because it's running and if they were shot/dry you would know by the loud rumbling noise. Unless it's very old, in which case it might have bushings rather than bearings, I suppose, but if they were worn it would be rattling! Sounds to me like it's running ok.
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Am I the Only Fool to Order One of These???
dikman replied to NewfoundlandLaw's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Look on the bright side, now you'll be able to tell us whether it's any good. -
Now it makes sense. Google kept trying to tell me it was an embroidery machine!!! Although when I searched for 26-55 it still didn't find anything and yet in Constabulary's brochure it's clear as day. Very strange. Threading should be pretty straightforward and similar to many other machines, other than what is presumably a lube pot (which you won't need).
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Still can't find anything. Need photos......
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Are you sure you've got the model number correct? It's funny that nothing at all is showing up. And is this a domestic machine? If so you're in the wrong place as we deal in industrial machines.
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Thanks mate, I seem to recall that Wiz mentioned 277 is perfectly adequate for holsters and belts, I'm guessing that the only "advantage" of 346 for my needs will be appearance. 277 also appears to be available in a wider range of colours (here at least) so I'm thinking that will be the logical choice. But it's nice to know that I will have a machine that can sew rope if I want to. What do you make, by the way?
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Good idea, you just reminded me that I did the same thing! Waste not want not. I'll have to check the size.