dikman

I see where your coming from. Unfortunately, we are often dealing with older machines where we have to make do with what parts we can get and adapting/modifying becomes part of the game. At least you know where the problem is (with the machine, I mean ).

Right hand, sorry, should have mentioned that before. I forget that not everyone is right-handed. For the left hand I need to drag the gun out, forward and across so angled forward slightly should be a bit more natural to clear the holster (according to my reasoning).

Very nice! Beautiful carving.

Thanks for the discussion, guys. I shoot with my strong hand so a rear-ward cant on the left holster would not be good if at a 9/3 position but a forward cant should be slightly beneficial. However, for any other position a forward cant is probably going to be a handicap. Based on what's been said I'm thinking 9/3 position with a 15-20% forward cant might be worth trying. If that doesn't work out then it's 10/2 with a rearward cant! One of them should work.......

Ok, that was a good video, but you're saying that the pin (#11) doesn't reach the operating lever on the tension assembly. Like I said, it's too short. I have had to replace similar pins on my machines and it's just trial and error to get the right length, too short and it won't work, too long and the discs stay open. Or, as Constabulary said, try bending the arm.

Then it has to be the adjustment Wiz is referring to. It is the only thing that can cause that problem.

So if part #13 is flat, rather than having the offset, all that means is that the rod, part #11, will be a bit short. Replace it with a slightly longer pin.

Sorta looks like a modern version of a Slim Jim. Very neat.

kgg beat me to it. Run some stitches by hand and watch the tension discs, make sure they are keeping the tension on the thread.

Whether using a motor or it's hand-cranked shouldn't make any difference to the stitching. If your bobbin thread is at minimum tension then you've definitely got varying top thread tension while stitching. As Rocky said check your tension discs for correct operation and make sure the disc tension release is working correctly (only operates with the hand lever/foot pedal/knee lifter). I once had a machine that was incorrectly adjusted and every time the foot came up in the stitching cycle it released the tension discs!!

Not bad. I forgot to mention that I was referring to using "ordinary" lockstitch machines, not one of them old-fangled needle and awl thingy's. Another thought re- my "idea" - use a pointed needle first to pre-punch the holes then use a leather needle to sew with, it should reduce the punch-through. Yes, I know, probably not very practical but just considering possibilities.

I've been pondering this, and the main issue is the "punch-through" that occurs on the backside of the leather. So, use the machine, with no thread, to pre-punch the stitch holes. Then flip the work piece and do the same thing from the backside, into the same holes. This should even out the "punch-through" and by then when it's run through the machine again, with thread, it should be better on the back (hopefully). Personally, if I want something to look hand stitched then I'll hand stitch it.

Unfortunately I can't argue with that, seems to happen all too often!

Looks like you got a good one there, stitches look good.

Koalas. Now that Zac's problem has been solved some koala information for those overseas. I consider the koala to be one of God's evolutionary dead ends. They have the brain power of a small ant and spend most of their time sleeping, waking long enough to find food. As they only eat a specific type of eucalyptus leaf (nothing else) they climb the tree to eat and so can sleep next to their food source. They are slow on the ground but good climbers (BIG claws). Their reasoning ability is one step above zero (first hand experience here). They also make horrendous noises, the male sounds like a mad pig grunting and the females shriek if a male bothers it. Scary noises at night until you know what's making them. Early explorers found they weren't any good to eat due to their diet of eucalyptus leaves. They look cute and cuddly but can be vicious things if you're not careful picking them up, and if you see two fighting don't interfere! Mother and baby in a tree in our front yard, male in same tree. We had to cut down the tree eventually because their constant feeding was slowly killing it!

I agree. Some people have strange ideas about painting things.

You've come to THE place for advice/help on industrial sewing machines, once you adjust those feet you should be right.

No worries mate, I'm a Pom by birth () but been a croweater for a long time. Where are you located, Zac?

Josh is right in that the only way to get better looking stitching on the back is to hand stitch. It's the nature of machine sewing and leather, the back will never look as good as the front.

South of the Murray? That's a big help, it's a bloody long river, Bert.

At least as regards the knee lifter. I'm surprised you could get any lift at all, the mechanics and leverage were all wrong. I agree with kgg about just using 1 strand of the wire (or you could replace it with a chain). The hole it goes through in the table looks like it's already been elongated a bit? Don't be scared to tinker with the various adjustments on the knee mechanism to make it more comfortable to use.

Under normal use both feet should lift to the same height so that is where your problem is. Do you have the manual for it? It's a good idea to become familiar with the adjustments because you will end up having to adjust things at some point - like now.

Looks to me like the timing off the feet is off. Needle appears to be all the way in, inner foot down and outer foot also down. The outer foot should be lifted by now.

That is very clever! Some people are certainly creative.

Can't help wondering about the competency of the dealer who set that up..........