dikman

Definitely start a new topic. Nice machine ,btw, so clean!

Unfortunately there's only one of me and I'm not exactly built like Arnie!

Oh yes, the table......every used machine I've bought I took the head off the table and like Bert said wedged it carefully so it couldn't move, then I dismantled the table completely to get it in the car and make it manageable. The biggest pain was always the clutch motor!!

Generally there's four bolts holding it to the table, remove those and lift the whole thing off (after disconnecting any lifters, of course). As for lifting it there's a pretty good chance that you can, my 335 is no problem to move.

So you drove in and back with no problems?

Andreica's main problem, Silverd, is that where she's located she doesn't have access to the choice of machines like we have, which is why she's looking at the two Pfaffs, they are convenient to her and the prices are, hopefully, reasonable. Many of the models that we often suggest as a good starting point are simply not available to her.

Definitely doesn't look like a girl in the photos I've seen!

I knew that! I was just being facetious.

Ah, but Superlube has Syncolon!!

It's amazing the number of different lubricating products there are for firearms. A new one seems to come out every couple of months! It's also amazing how many just use good ol' 3-in-1 on their firearms.

Might be a bit of overkill for making bags, but what a lovely piece of old machinery. Presumably what Noah used on the Ark.

So chrome-tanned , not veg tan. Incidentally, posting links to flikr is pretty pointless, as you have to sign up to see anything. It's always better to post pics directly to the post, that way there's no concerns about pics going missing down the track and making a post meaningless.

Probably so you can't see it if it gets in the food! Good idea, though.

1500w motor??????? 550w should work fine, 750w will be more than enough! A speed reducer will not only let you sew slow but will give increased torque. For sewing webbing a pointed needle, as used in sewing cloth material, will be best (a leather point needle is likely to cut the webbing/nylon).

Why does it have to be clear? I haven't seen too many clear greases around (other than vaseline).

Andreica, given what you've just said then the 335 (not the binder) would be a reasonable machine but I think the 545 would be a better option. I'm not familiar with it but it appears to have a larger bobbin and has higher lift under the feet. Either machine should handle #92 thread fine, and probably up to #138. As for shipping, if you can buy local and pickup yourself it's always preferable. Unless the person arranging the shipping knows what they're doing then the risk of damage can be high. Industrial machines are heavy and need to be well packed otherwise things get broken!

Locking up? Sorry, but that's a bit vague. Does the needle stop moving? Or is the thread jamming? Or won't the handwheel turn? What exactly do you do to unjam it? Any chance of taking a pic of what's Jammed? So many questions.......

I probably should have clarified the stitch length, I guess. We're both right. The stitch length varies a bit, depending on the sub-class, and mine is limited to 4mm. There's no easy way of getting it any longer. As for the feed dog, it just seems to me that a none-elliptical travel smooth dog is not going to give much assistance to the material movement - but you could be right, and I could be wrong, if so I'm happy to learn something. But I still don't think it's the right machine for someone who will only have one (which is why many of us have more than one.....).

I don't think a 335 would be the best choice if you're restricted to one machine. Most of them are used as binders, and while they can be changed to "normal" feet the feed dog is not used for feeding, so it's not a compound feed machine. The stitch length is also relatively short.

Not all, but in my (limited) experience most older machines do.

Direct drive units are compact and in some ways simpler, as in no external motor and pulleys, but if something does happen to go wrong they could be more expensive to repair. Most on here prefer an external servo motor and pulleys because it's relatively cheap to replace a servo in the unlikley event it fails. Which model Jack are you talking about? It's hard to tell from the website I looked at whether they are suitable for leatherwork.

$25?? As long as the head is working that's a bargain!

Very nice job! I did something similar but couldn't bring myself to cut the metal frame!! Interesting solution to placing the drawer, I had to leave mine off.

Yep, I agree, I looked at that thread path and thought it didn't look right but couldn't see enough detail. It should come up to the check spring and THEN around the bar at the left of the spring. I doubt if the check spring is doing anything the way it's threaded.

Some makers fit variations on that idea to facilitate smooth drawing (mostly Single Action shooting). Strips of various shapes, some with a protrusion to fit over the bottom of the belt etc. Also making the holster with zero retention on the revolver helps.