dikman

I'm with Constabulary. A bit of trial and error, along with experience that comes with actually sewing different materials is probably the most practical aid. Sometimes it may be necessary to tweak things beyond the "recommended" settings.

Don't be afraid to ask, you'll get the right advice here. Threading isn't difficult but some of the youtube videos aren't right so if you're not sure ask here.

That's why my domestic machine is an old Singer 201, all metal and almost bulletproof!

Pretty drastic alteration, Brian. I'll keep it in mind. The reason I'm using threaded rod for the upright is that I'd already figured that I'd need to make it height-adjustable to get the best feeding of the tape. I'm on version 2, wasn't quite happy with version 1. Bert, could be pretty handy having them so close, you could save a bit on shipping.

That's who I bought it from! Ordered it yesterday and already shipped so prompt service. But what's the diam. of the roll? I've modified a table clamp with a vertical threaded rod and made a bearing mounted support but I need to know what size to cut the support disk. I should add that I don't have a cake tin lid but I do have a round biscuit tin lid that might do. I might use it just for Brian.

It's braided thread, that might be your problem. I bought a cone of braided thread that was ex-boot making factory stock. It's a beautiful thread, strong and very flexible, but I haven't been able to get it to sew successfully in any of my machines! It's very prone to snagging the braids.

This is a domestic sewing machine and they are known to have issues when sewing leather, particularly harder veg tanned. Are you talking about adding the lining to the outer leather?

I've ordered a 100m roll of tape, can someone tell me the approx. diameter of such a roll, please? I'm making a stand for it and need to know what size to make the base (and no, I'm not using a cake tin lid!).

And it doesn't look like it goes over #3? I can't be sure from the first photo.

Don't apologise, we all have to start somewhere, and the subject of industrial sewing machines can be quite complex (initially, at least). I'd still like to see a closeup of your threading around the tension assembly. The number of holes used on the post and the bar next to the tension unit can vary, depending on how much extra "pre"-tension might be needed. It's often a trial and error thing to suit the materials being sewn, but normally you would only use two holes on the post and one or two on the bar.

I hadn't paid any attention to the thread path until Pinto mentioned it. Can you post a closer photo of the tension assembly, I think it may be threaded wrong.

I use irfanview (free) to resize to 800x600, you don't want it too small 'cos we voyeurs like to see some detail. Your photos look fine to me.

Those cones of thread are not meant to be used like that, i.e.mounted on the machine. You will probably end up with severe twisting of the thread and jamming at some point. There is a reason that machines have those holders with the tall guide. If you want to keep it as original as possible (including the light) that's up to you but most of us that use them ditch the clutch motor for a servo and go with LED lights because it makes the machine more enjoyable to use.

Any of the common/generic servos will work. As for the handwheel, I've fitted larger pulleys to a couple of my machines and they work fine. It's easier than fitting a speed reducer and works the same.

Now that's what I call funky!

Leatherdog makes sense, that machine is really in very good condition, paint-wise. I wouldn't be repainting it if it was me. Not sure how easy it is to find one of those globes, most these days fit an LED light fitting of some sort. Oh, and that cone of thread is upside down, I wouldn't recommend using it like that as if you get any loose loops of thread they could get caught around the bottom of it.

A nail through a cake tin lid!! Come on, Brian, I expected something a bit more refined from you! TexasCharlie, it's just one of those generic Chinese patchers, there's been quite a few posts about them.

I guess it depends what you've got lying around. I have a suitable clamp (off a desk lamp, I think) and only needs a disc - plastic, aluminium, wood etc - so pretty easy.

Thanks Bert, I don't think I'll need that colour , just your basic black! Certainly cheaper in bulk. I searched ebay, of course, but sometimes unless you get exactly the right search term things don't always show up. As for the holder, shouldn't be hard to make something suitable.

I thought I'd restore my Pfaff 335 to a binder, but where can I get the tape? The only place I've found so far is a local leather supply shop but they want $1.70 per metre for 1" synthetic tape and they only sell by the metre, not bulk. Where do others get their tape from in Oz?

Douglas, it might help if you can describe exactly what the problem is that you're having? What makes you think that something is wrong?

1500 watt??? If someone told you that's what you need I'd be very cautious about taking advice from them again! As Mike said 500 - 750 watt should be fine and are readily available via ebay AND within Australia, so no need to order from overseas.

Ahh, I was just trying to be polite. Perhaps you might want to delete my posts about too, wiz, as they no longer make any sense.

Jonmark, your post is, dare I say it, out of line. This part of the forum deals with industrial machines, your site deals with domestic machines.

I would say that the machine Harry is using is the same one, but it does have an oscillating feed dog. If you watch the cutout to the right of the needle you can see the round bit (screw?) moving up, down, back and forth. IF you go to look at it and feel it is suitable make sure it has the oscillating feed dog. There's no doubt it will do what you want but as Brian said the potential limiting factor may ultimately be clearance under the feet. I have an old casting 335 and have actually increased the working clearance under the feet BUT mine has a manual thread tension release, because what happens is that as the foot lifts higher it operates the tension release at the top of each stroke IF you have the normal automatic pin release. So don't let anyone tell you it's a simple matter to increase the clearance.