dikman

1500w motor??????? 550w should work fine, 750w will be more than enough! A speed reducer will not only let you sew slow but will give increased torque. For sewing webbing a pointed needle, as used in sewing cloth material, will be best (a leather point needle is likely to cut the webbing/nylon).

Why does it have to be clear? I haven't seen too many clear greases around (other than vaseline).

Andreica, given what you've just said then the 335 (not the binder) would be a reasonable machine but I think the 545 would be a better option. I'm not familiar with it but it appears to have a larger bobbin and has higher lift under the feet. Either machine should handle #92 thread fine, and probably up to #138. As for shipping, if you can buy local and pickup yourself it's always preferable. Unless the person arranging the shipping knows what they're doing then the risk of damage can be high. Industrial machines are heavy and need to be well packed otherwise things get broken!

Locking up? Sorry, but that's a bit vague. Does the needle stop moving? Or is the thread jamming? Or won't the handwheel turn? What exactly do you do to unjam it? Any chance of taking a pic of what's Jammed? So many questions.......

I probably should have clarified the stitch length, I guess. We're both right. The stitch length varies a bit, depending on the sub-class, and mine is limited to 4mm. There's no easy way of getting it any longer. As for the feed dog, it just seems to me that a none-elliptical travel smooth dog is not going to give much assistance to the material movement - but you could be right, and I could be wrong, if so I'm happy to learn something. But I still don't think it's the right machine for someone who will only have one (which is why many of us have more than one.....).

I don't think a 335 would be the best choice if you're restricted to one machine. Most of them are used as binders, and while they can be changed to "normal" feet the feed dog is not used for feeding, so it's not a compound feed machine. The stitch length is also relatively short.

Not all, but in my (limited) experience most older machines do.

Direct drive units are compact and in some ways simpler, as in no external motor and pulleys, but if something does happen to go wrong they could be more expensive to repair. Most on here prefer an external servo motor and pulleys because it's relatively cheap to replace a servo in the unlikley event it fails. Which model Jack are you talking about? It's hard to tell from the website I looked at whether they are suitable for leatherwork.

$25?? As long as the head is working that's a bargain!

Very nice job! I did something similar but couldn't bring myself to cut the metal frame!! Interesting solution to placing the drawer, I had to leave mine off.

Yep, I agree, I looked at that thread path and thought it didn't look right but couldn't see enough detail. It should come up to the check spring and THEN around the bar at the left of the spring. I doubt if the check spring is doing anything the way it's threaded.

Some makers fit variations on that idea to facilitate smooth drawing (mostly Single Action shooting). Strips of various shapes, some with a protrusion to fit over the bottom of the belt etc. Also making the holster with zero retention on the revolver helps.

Now I get it!

The 335 doesn't need a big heavy duty motor, a 550w will work fine. On ebay here in Oz there are many for sale locally that fit that category, some with EPS and some without (not sure about ebay where you are). There have been many posts on here about fitting servos, with various recommendations, I think College Sewing in the UK is one? Any of the generic China servos will work fine, it just depends how fussy you are regarding the button controls on them. Some prefer the dial control for speed adjustment but that is likely to attract a premium price.

I've been waiting too.........

That looks very nice Morgan. I like the "natural" colour and the decoration is simple, clean and under-stated.

If you've got a pin-point heat source you could try that to break it free.

Great job.

The last time I was silly enough to repaint a sewing machine I used a gel-type chemical paint stripper to remove the old paint. It took two or three applications in some areas but it worked great.

Clone of a Pfaff 335, if you look up its specs it should help.

If it's going to be your first machine I would advise against the Pfaff. As Wiz said many were sold as binders, which limits their usefulness. The Seiko would be my choice, assuming it's in good condition and sewing well. You really want a compound feed machine, which the Seiko is.

Whatever colour filament you happen to have.

I came across this on thingiverse, and thought it looked useful. They are stackable and he's designed a large, small and a round one. I tried his suggested print settings but the bottom layer wasn't fused properly and the edges were separating, so I smoothed some thin epoxy over it, which held it all together ok. I reverted to my standard settings for the other two, 0.2 mm layer, and that worked fine. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3710646 Handy for sorting small parts and then tipping them into bags etc.

Yeah, that cast iron/cast steel dust gets everywhere (particularly when grinding it)!! Carbide lathe tips should work, just take small cuts, as you said.

I agree. If the adjustment parts aren't there then it's obviously a 2-motion feed only.