dikman

Very nice work. And yes, the glue helps a lot.

It's interesting to have that perspective from someone with an insight into marketing. If I had to try and start a small business I'd probably end up as one of the failed ones. A couple of reasons why - I'm a technical hands-on type of person, with little interest in the business side of things and I wouldn't be "hard" enough to run a profitable business because I would most likely be too willing to help people rather than make the tough decisions. Thanks for your thoughts, Spyros.

Those slits look awfully big (long) to me, particularly when you consider what it looks like when using an awl.

At least with that colour it will be easier to see - wherever you put it down!

No worries, glad I could help. The 3200 is actually a nice machine, I was thinking of getting one but they offered me the 4500 at pretty close to the same price so naturally I had to buy the biggest I could!

I did a bit of comparing and that photo is a 3200, not a 441. The specs in the .pdf you've listed are not for that machine. Do a search for Cowboy 3200 and you'll find the info relating to the machine in your picture. Someone at that company is a bit confused. The 3200 is a "lighter" version of the 441 with less lift and will only handle up to 1/2" under the feet. They rate it as handling #69 to #346 thread, but realistically you may have problems trying to sew thin leather because it's still a heavy duty machine. As for the Efka motor, not necessary in my opinion. These machines have a large handwheel and if you match that with a servo and speed reducer you should be able to sew as slow as you need.

If it has "441" in its description then it's most likely a 441 clone, which is a heavier duty than a 3200. You need to download the specifications for what they're selling and compare them to the equivalent Cowboy models. That will give you a better idea of just what they're trying to sell you. I think you will be struggling trying to sew thin/light wallets on a 3200, and you definitely will on a 441! As Wiz said, it's an unfortunate fact that to sew the range that you have mentioned will require more than one machine.

Good idea about the "repository" as there have been other files posted that are scattered in other posts.

Well, my Cowboy 4500 didn't come with a test sewing piece. I bought the head unit only from an Australian distributor and it was basically shipped to me unopened, as it came from the factory. My assumption is that if it was sold as a complete unit (table, motor etc) then it would have been tested because it was already set up. I'm not complaining because they gave me a good deal so I guess they didn't want to waste any time on it. Just my observations.

Mate, it's safe to say that Victoria is a basket case at the moment! Australia, as a whole, was doing fairly well until these outbreaks in Vic started up. The people running that State should be shot (or exported to China). Glad to hear that things are picking up for you. Funnily enough, not much changed for me during all of this, the only real impact has been closure of the shooting ranges, but they're now starting to open up a bit. I haven't done any leatherwork (yet, I really should get back into it) but have spent a fair bit of time getting my larger lathe running on a 3-phase/VFD setup and getting it to run accurately (finally!). And built a gas forge. And melted some aluminium to make a bar to align the lathe. In fact, it seems I've been doing everything except leatherwork! You should post a couple of pics of your market setup, it could be of interest to others?

I wouldn't use chrome-tanned myself, due to the fact it's made using strong chemicals. I suspect that any moisture that gets in there is likely to combine with the residual chemicals and will doubtless affect the metal. Not worth the risk.

Something a bit different, bought them yesterday. Went to a second-hand shop chasing a bench grinder that they advertised but it was already sold. Looking around I saw these. I have a couple of pairs of cheapies that use AA batteries, and I found them very handy for cutting strips of material to make patches for my muzzleloaders and cleaning patches for all the guns. I knew that this model of scissors was very good so bought them. I found the original receipt in the box - 2005! - so don't expect the battery to last but so far it looks good. The cutters have carbide inserts and after touching them up with a diamond sharpener it cuts well. Can cut material (of course), canvas, garment leather and thinnish veg-tan. For $49 I'm sure I'll find a use for them.

Yep, I noticed that too. If both machines are the same price I would take the bottom (newer) one. I think it has slightly more lift under the feet?

Yes, I've noticed that, but by the same token you are generally recommending reliable dealers to newbies who are new to the subject. Once one gains knowledge then they can make (hopefully) informed decisions and take risks in buying machines. I'm not sure that qualifies as a "vested interest".

Indeed.

If it's now sewing ok why would you need to change any parts?

The thread comes out of the hole at the right and should go BEHIND the little collar, not in front.. The thread bunching up on the bottom is an indication that you're losing top thread tension.

Apologies! I posted in the wrong thread.

Wykoni, after reading Wiz's reply it may sound daunting, but it's not that bad. Like anything new it takes time to become familiar with it. There are many videos on youtube about this class of machine and plenty of excellent help here. You won't regret getting one and funnily enough I found the big machine to be easier to use and more forgiving than my smaller machines (there's something nice about a big needle and thick thread ). Learning how to set it up is probably the hardest part.

I'm perplexed why anyone would want to run a clutch/pulley unit on a treadle machine.

What Wiz said. Some time ago a member in the US looked into importing a machine direct from China and he found that any likely savings would be minimal and it just wasn't worth the trouble. I found the same thing here in Australia. Better to buy from a reputable dealer.

I'm assuming it's a single phase clutch motor, in which case a VFD won't work, it will only work with a 3-phase motor. Which means you will have to buy a new motor + the VFD. Then you will have to make up a fitting to adapt the remote potentiometer on the VFD to work with a foot pedal to give you a speed control. As Jimi said you're better off just buying a servo, they are a bolt-on replacement and will give you what you want with a lot less messing around.

If you ever have trouble removing the loctite'd screws just apply a little heat from a pinpoint flame, it should be enough to loosen the bond. Won't need much.

Jimi, that is a pretty remarkable effort making those Akai plugs! Brian, the new printer makes the "old" one look like a little toy.

"Apparently there are different versions of the CB-4500 floating around different parts of the world. I have yet to see one with pre-drilled holes for mounting an edge guide." Mine came with the holes already there, I just had to make an adapter plate. I just assumed it was the same on all CB4500's. Hence my post.