dikman

Personally, I think those numbers that are quoted in the manuals are pretty meaningless, just something they come up with to sound impressive! You have to experiment with the settings and various pulleys to get something that works for you.

Looks pretty good to me, mate. That elk has a luxurious look about it.

I'm with Constab. I've fitted speed reducers (home-made and all different) and/or larger pulleys in lieu of handwheels to all of my machines and it gives me all the control I want. They compensate for the inadequacies of cheap/generic servos.

Yep. Dying veg tends to stiffen it, in my experience, and the glue definitely adds an extra layer of hardness. Try your awl on plain veg first, that should give you an idea of whether it's working ok.

Thanks Alexander, you explained it much better than me!

Frodo, you're supposed to poke the awl into the leather, not your finger.

On mine, which I've had for 6-7 months (?) the fitting on the top of the head, where the arm operated by the lifting chain fits in, is designed such that it's impossible to get more than 7/8" of lift without modifying this bracket. I spent some time fiddling, trying to get more lift but couldn't. Unfortunately I can't get down to it to take photos or get the book for part numbers because I've torn the ligaments in my left ankle and will be immobile for quite a few weeks. No leatherwork, reloading, shooting, lathe work, 3D printing - can't get to anything, nothing but the computer, tv and reading.

The machine looks to be in excellent condition. Those old metal machines can be quite useful as they're pretty strong. As for repairing the motor, well done! Trying to remove old potting around windings is a pain in the you-know-what!

In the first photo there is a bent spring, below the arm that is used to open the jaws, that presses against the jaw to keep it closed. So yes.

Servo can stay on as there's not much weight in them, just make sure it's secure and can't wobble around. Table upside down is a good idea if possible and definitely remove the head and pack separately. That is where the weight is and the real potential for damage.

Addictive? Yep, it can become a bit of an obsession if you're not careful. I was always on the lookout for older (bargain) machines but it started becoming a problem so I rationalised my "collection" a bit. The main problem was a lack of room!! Now my main problem is I can't use any of them since I busted my ankle.

Thanks for the link, that's cool.

I can't help you, unfortunately, but I wanted to thank you for posting the photos - it's a fascinating device. Is the idea that you stitch between the little fingers? I'm trying to figure out just how it's different to a normal pony/clamp.

I made a simple bracket to attach the edge guide using the existing holes as I couldn't see the point in drilling extra holes. My edge guides came with a small fitting to replace the roller and provide a straight edge, although it's pretty short. Didn't yours have this? I also made a lifter extension, like Uwe's, but found it was a nuisance to use, so I made up a lever system to use a left-foot-operated lever. As Cowboy Bob said it is easier to use (given the heavy springs in the 441 machines). I've posted photos in assorted threads.

Yep, could become one of those classic lines.

Nicely done - and it works!

Hi Loquai, it's always a difficult decision to make when it comes to buying a machine, mainly because when you're coming from handstitching there is no one machine to replace it. A manual machine, like the Outlaw, will be the closest because it can handle reasonably heavy thread on somewhat lighter materials. There are doubtless many who have used them successfully but also many who have had issues due to their inherent limitations. Having only one hand free is likely to be the major issue. As has been suggested a good used Consew (or equivalent) fitted with a servo could be a good way to get started without breaking the bank. If it works out you'll likely start looking at a second machine, something that will handle heavier leather/thread. Just warning you, it can be a slippery slope this sewing machine thing.

One of two things, as Gregg said it's an early design to enable the fitting of a foot lever for reverse or a previous owner fitted it for that precise reason. It shouldn't be hard to fabricate a shortened lever to replace it.

I've been binge watching Forged in Fire, and to quote Doug Marcaida "it weel cut!"

Those are all domestic sewing machines, and while they may work on some (thin) leathers they're not really ideal.

What he said. I'm sure you'll make the next one different, now that you've got this experience under your belt.

Sharpening knives edge up on a belt grinder is common practice but a head knife is not a normal knife shape! I should have done it edge down, as Brian did. I should have known better. Using a polishing wheel will tend to round off the edge, unlike using a regular strop, however it is quicker to get a sharp edge and when time is important it only takes seconds to touch up the edge. Zuludog, I had a look at J H Leather's site and she has some good stuff on there. I like that "half-head" knife as you don't have to keep watching where the other point is! I'll make one later, when I finish off all the other jobs I have.

These things are actually quite dangerous to sharpen on a belt grinder! One of mine caught at the point and dug into the aluminium guide wheel on the grinder. It took a small chunk out of the wheel!

Good one, should be a nice blade when finished - and it didn't cost too much! Off-setting the head and handle is an interesting idea. I've made a couple the same way and I've been thinking of making a 1/2 head knife. I don't need it but I like making things.

Nice.