dikman

A couple more thoughts. The handle is held on with a pin, probably brass, I would carefully knock out that pin and remove the handle. There will probably be a bit of rust on the tang too. The handle can be re-fitted later with a bit of epoxy. Once you've got most of the rust removed coat it with a rust converter (phosphoric acid), this should neutralize the small amounts of rust left in the pits and seal it. Grind back the broken corner to give you a point, then sand/polish the blade to the finish you want (a scotchbrite pad might even be enough), refit the handle and sharpen it. Done. Enjoy the blade. Don't overthink this.

For only $26 I think it's worth persevering with it! I'm sure you will end up with a usable blade. As for your last statement I understand where you're coming from but it's not necessarily the case, it will depend on the manufacturer. The older blades would have been plain carbon steel (hence the rust) but there are many steels available these days that are better, with greater edge-holding and toughness. Personally, I am fond of carbon steel, even though it requires more care, and that knife of yours has a great patina which reflects its age.

Ok, if you want to make big changes to the shape then yes, you're in for a lot of slow sanding/grinding, given that it's already hardened. There are lots of photos of different shapes that came up when I did a google search some time ago. As for your last statement, sharp and shiny is achievable, world peace not so likely.

I would have expected some change after all that time. I did it using lead sheet as the anode and it worked pretty quickly. As for the broken tip, I would grind the flat/straight part to bring it to a point again. You could use an angle grinder or a bench grinder if you don't have a belt sander. The trick is to take it slowly and keep cooling the metal.

With electrolysis a high current will, of course, work quicker but the general recommendation is to use a lower current over a longer time (less than 1 amp). You can also use plain salt as the electrolyte but this will generate hydrogen so only do it outside. Probably the safest way, if you don't want to risk affecting other metal, is to use something like Evapo-rust. It's relatively harmless and will only attack the rust. If the pitting extends to the cutting edge there's really not much you can do about it, just sharpen it as best you can. You should end up with a tool with a bit of character.

Yep, all finished and it seems fine. I don't know why I didn't finish off this thread (sorry about that, chief). I'll take a photo later of the final product. Reading back on this it was a lot of bloody work!!! Edit:I just found a photo of the finished maul, I must have forgotten to post it. I made the handle out of wood segments because it was easier than using stacked leather.

How about powdercoating the metal parts?

That whole machine needs a good soaking in Evapo-Rust!!

I like it, something where you can actually see all the mechanical bits working. That deserves a decent restoration.

Chuck, I'm surprised you didn't make them out of antler. Good idea though, should make them more usable instead of fiddling around changing bits.

Wow! The design is still the same after all these years, the only thing that's changed is the plastic case.

1949! I didn't realise hex bits had been around that long. Chapman have put some thought into the design of their product. All of the parts fit together and can be used in combination, e.g. the ratchet can be slid over the extension piece and then fitted to the handle. Each bit has a small round knurled section to help with using just the bit in your fingers. They make a gunsmith's set, which is much more comprehensive, but as I already have lots of Torx and Allen head bits I figured the smaller slotted set was the most practical for my needs.

I put this here because it doesn't fit under Leather Tools and relates to sewing machine maintenance.. I got fed up trying to find the correct size screwdriver to fit the screws on firearms (they invariably use slotted screws) so lashed out and bought this set, 14 slotted, 2 Philips and 1 ridiculously small hex bit. Not cheap, but the quality is excellent (made in USA). I have numerous bit sets but none have the range of slotted bits that this does. It occurred to me that it should also be great for working on sewing machines as they tend to use slotted screws. One other nice thing is the plastic case has a hinge, not one of those horrible flexible plastic hinges!

Very nice work, Jesse.

Beautiful!

Got any photos? A quick search didn't turn up anything on this model.

You bought a lathe - good times ahead.

Better late than never, I suppose.

Not sure about that model but older motors often ran in oiled bushings, not bearings, which is why they have oil caps. If it's working ok I would leave it alone, as the wiring insulation gets brittle with age and pulling them apart can cause (dangerous) problems. I had a couple of lovely old Singer motors that I dumped because I considered them electrically dangerous.

About what I would expect from you, Josh. That's a LOT of basketweave! What are the grips on the revolver? They have a high visual impact!!

Mine came fitted with a standard domestic needle but it wasn't hard to readjust for 135x16 needles.

I forgot to ask - Josh, that wrist tattoo looks like the serpentine stamp pattern you like to use. Coincidence?

I do it like Dwight, the trick is to keep it damp, as he said. It's much easier than stitching, quicker and no stitches to possibly wear and break.

Funny, that was exactly what I thought, word for word!

I found a similar product here in Oz. By comparing the MSDS of Mop & Glo with what was available I found a local equivalent. It can be sprayed or brushed on and I've also used it over paint on model kits.