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Chief31794

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Everything posted by Chief31794

  1. He's right handed, he wanted to put the clip on his jeans pocket and have the holster outside the pocket. Chief
  2. Nice work. Really good job on the Basket Weave. Chief
  3. I like the derringer, I might think about picking one up, there kind of neat. Chief
  4. X2 on above, however, I wouldn't think so, I'm not selling weapons nor owning more than allowed without a FFL so I am not too concerned about it and I won't make a holster without the weapon in hand. Chief
  5. No clip, he didn't want one on this, he did on the derringer. He wanted to be able to put it on his belt and make sure it stayed in place so I used two belt loops, shorter than normal so they would fit snug, he can run the belt through the back one then through a belt loop on his pants and then through the other and the holster will not be able to slide around. I'd never done that before, but it was what he wanted. Thanks, the .380 is kind of neat in a 1911 type weapon, the weapon is small, hard to tell in the picture, I would estimate about 75% size of a normal 1911 or a little less. The camo job was done by a guy he knows. It is pretty sharp in person, the guy normally does long guns but I think this turned out pretty nice. Pics of the backs. Chief
  6. This is the neatest gun I've seen in a while, it comes with two cylinders, 22 MAG and 22 LR. The holster wasn't easy to make as there isn't a lot of room to work with and the customer wanted to clip it to the outside of his pocket on his jeans. He also wanted plain leather and Black. So this is what I came up with. The .380 was a little more conventional, although it is pretty small as well and he wanted to put a magazine pouch on the outside of the holster itself. Chief
  7. Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be and I'm not as quick, but I still like to work in the shop. Keeps me and the wife married, and me out of trouble. Chief
  8. Welcome to the forum, you'll learn a lot here. I'm in Tifton. Chief
  9. Thanks Bob, The Native American designs came out better than I thought, they look rough but that's the way they were in the graphics I was provided. Chief
  10. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think you're right. I shipped it to British Columbia, I believe they were in the Ojibway tribe but not absolutely certain. Chief
  11. Here are a guitar strap, a banjo strap (Cradle style), and a wallet that I did for a Native American lady in Canada. The name on the wallet means "Strong Man from the Mountain". Chief
  12. I don't think it would be a thinner if it's in paste form as Fiebings Antique paste is, I don't use neutral and can't think of a use for it, I use Fiebings Antique paste to antique carvings and that requires a color. I've never bought any of the neutral because I haven't had a purpose for it, I normally only buy what I need. Chief
  13. Do not soak them in oil, it is possible to get them soggy with oil and then they are a mess. After oiling lightly maybe a couple of coats and letting soak in then I would roll them gently in the direction you want them to flex, do that several times and they should "loosen" up. It's hard to tell what you mean by quite stiff, leather from that area is stiff and that is desirable for good quality belts. It also may have something to do with the tanning process, if it's Hermann Oak you shouldn't have any trouble, if you got it from Tandy you may not be able to correct it because you can't completely fix a bad tanning process. Just my opinion. If it is "out of the Normal stiffness range", then you could return it to the distributor and most reputable distributors will make it good. Chief
  14. It is more likely to thin for a holster unless you laminate it flesh to flesh and then cut out your holster making the leather 8/10 oz which would be sufficient for most weapons. Chief
  15. Ruler for me. Chief
  16. Mike, Sorry, late getting on this post. The strap is absolutely beautiful, very nice craftsmanship. Chief
  17. I buy all my leather from Springfield Leather and have never had a problem with anything. Talk to them, if you don't like it, they'll make it right. At least that's been my experience. Chief
  18. Both, I'm actually not sure why, which is unusual, I normally do things for a reason. It just always seemed "natural" to me that the long side of the project should be laid out parallel. Sorry for this answer, but I just don't know why, just always have. If you think about it, a rectangle cut from a side is going to have two sides parallel and two sides perpendicular. It always seemed to me that items folded better along the parallel side, when I cut holsters (wrap arounds or western), I cut them so that it folds on parallel direction of the side. Shoulders the same way except that the shoulder is bent over the body so I lay out parallel with the long side. Belts are always cut along the parallel becuase you have to get the length. I don't think it makes a lot of difference, leather is a wonderfully adaptable medium to work in and once it's folded, glued and sewn it won't make too much difference. Chief
  19. I cut most of my goods more or less Paral I normally cut my goods more or less parallel. Chief
  20. I use resolene but not for resist on antiquing, I use Clear Lac for that. I'm sure some people use it, I've just always used Clear Lac and Neat Lac before that (which is the same thing). Clear Lac is easy, simple and absolutely resists. Chief
  21. Well thanks loads, didn't even know I had an addiction. Now I'm really depressed!!! Well it explains a lot, my wife and I have been happily married for 3 years, we've been married for 45 just happy for 3, well I guess it's back to the shop. Another thing while I'm on this subject: I listen to some words a preacher said once and it ruined my life forever, he said, " I now pronounce you man and wife", I didn't know "till death do you part" was a goal!!! Chief
  22. Got to agree on a complete replacement, all of the lace on this item appears to be well worn and after a successful patching job, I fear you would continue patching for some time as the old lace continued to deteriorate. It will look real nice with new lace. I agree with Electrathon on Kangaroo, however, if that is too expensive then the second I would recommend would be good quality calf skin lace. 1:6 lace length ratio is not sufficient, most books claim a 8:1, I have always used a 9:1 to make sure I get to where I need to be. This lacing stitch is the Double Loop Stitch. Chief
  23. I'm not sure if you could make it work or not, I use #9 and #12 and I have setters for both of them. The setters aren't that expensive, but the best way to determine if you can use it is to try it. Chief
  24. Yes, I try a lot of their stuff when it's designed. I have had them make some custom templates, have most of their standard templates and accessories, and some of my custom templates they sell now as standard. They've made me two maker's marks in different sizes and I did a video on them as well. Great company to work with, I love their products and they are great people. Chief
  25. Texasfireleather, Welcome to the forum, this is a great site with lots of good leathercrafters, there is a large post entitled "show Pictures of your shop" or something like that it goes on for many pages with pictures of shops. Here are some pictures form my shop.
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