Chief31794

I dye first, I've heard of others who oil first. The only way I would consider it is if I were using spirit dyes, never with water based dyes, I don't have any scientific data to support it but I don't see how water based stains or dyes like Fiebings Antiques would be able to penetrate the oil. I've never had a problem oiling after. To get dye as even as possible I usually wet the leather lightly with whatever base I'm using, Denatured Alcohol for spirit dyes and Distilled Water for Water Based Stains. Just my opinion, I could be wrong, that's happened before. Chief

You want to buy harness needles, they are available from many sources, Springfield Leather is where I get mine, but I do a lot of heavy stitching, They only have three sizes, some others have some smaller ones, but I like the heavy ones. This was discussed recently so a search for harness needles will turn up that post and there are several suggestions there for sources of varying sizes. Chief

I have it in the shop and use it when Clear Lac isn't quite what i want. I cut it 50/50 with distilled water and put it on in light coats, works okay when I want to use a water based finish. Chief

Thanks, yeah it ain't nothing fancy, but it makes a nice sling. The slings that are shown on the ad are some I made for wedding parties. Chief

Sorry, I didn't see this earlier, but Camano Ridge already sent you the link. Chief

I believe OTB will sell to individuals, not sure, however, they do have a minimum order amount that you have to meet. The quality of their hardware is head and shoulders above Tandy and Tandy resellers. Chief

If you get over this way, let me know and feel free to come by the shop. Chief

Ohio Travel bag carries them in brass, you might want to "antique" them a little. They are on Page 217 of the catalog. Chief

Freezerfiller, Welcome to the site, I'm in Southwest Georgia (Tifton) glad to see another Georgian on the site. Chief

Welcome aboard. Great hobby Chief

I have to second the Black River Laser templates, they are great time savers and really good products, Joyce is great to work with and is on this site (Stitchwizard) so call her and get what you need. She carries all sorts of templates (including a 44" rifle sling that I designed) and she also will make templates to your specifications, she has made quite a few for me. While I'm doing a commercial for them, the thickness gauge and centering gauges they sell are great time savers and very useful. She also has a Ranger Belt pattern set that is nice if you do any ranger belts. I also use them for straps sewn to leather when I want a decorative look as opposed to just a squared off strap sewn on. Highly Recommended!!! Chief

I have a "measuring belt" for local orders, but I prefer to use an old belt as was said. For internet orders, I send detailed instructions on how to measure to include the picture below, I won't accept an order for the customer who says, oh I'm a 34 I don't need to measure, if they won't measure to my specifications, I don't take the order, I also have a strict return policy that states I will only issue a Return Authorization after they've shipped it back and it doesn't measure to what I was provided. I specifically state that I will not accept returns for items that "do not fit" only if they don't meet the customer's order measurements. Dealing with the public you'll still have people who cannot be satisfied, that means no repeat orders, but the good thing is I don't want a return order from them. Chief

I've never seen anything like that for Leather or anything else for that matter. Chief

Sorry but I've got to pile on, lift the stitcher lightly between your thumb and forefinger and release it over the trash can. Get an awl (learn to sharpen and strop it) or if that is something you don't want to pursue, the 2nd best option is a set of Diamond stitching punches and regardless of which then get some good harness needles, thread and away you go. Hand stitching isn't difficult to do, it is somewhat difficult to master, but practice is a good way to proceed. Chief

The Boss is a great machine but it has to be adjusted properly. Some of it like the bobbin tension is "feel" and the set up guide is a "starting point", I would call Tippman, they can help. One good note, once you get it adjusted, it sews great. I don't use mine a lot, I hand sew mostly, but when I do use it, it sews really nice. Wasn't always like that I got very frustrated when I first bought it, but it finally won me over. Chief

Thanks, Lacing is one of the things I really like to do. Chief

Thanks, means a lot to get nice comments from you. Yeah that design has been around a long time, sort of a classic. Thanks a lot. Chief

Been a while, here's a few items I did over the past couple of days. A wallet with round braid, and two different Dobro Straps. Chief

I believe Shooter is pretty much on the money. I would say the issues are; 1) Improperly cased leather, 2) Dull Knife combined with cutting too deep, 3) I'm not sure how you're holding the knife but it should be perpendicular to the surface and tilted forward so that you're cutting with the "corner". Since you mentioned a cutting jig it may be that the blade is sitting flat and the side of the blade is being dragged through the leather. Bob Park (Hidepounder) has an excellent explanation on casing leather posted and pinned on the top of this forum, knife sharpening is a mixture of skill and art with the beam tipped toward art, some folks can do it expertly, some can't. Stropping is extremely important, however, if you're stropping a dull knife you will wind up with a polished dull knife. Others may have different opinions and it's hard to trouble shoot something without seeing it happen live and examining the piece. Hope this helps, Chief

I constantly forget things in the shop. You'd think that sooner or later I'd get smart, so I did, I occasionally forget to make and dye the belt loop (keeper) when I'm making a belt, then I have to go back and dye it separately. Pretty annoying, so I devised a method to remind me and posted this over my dye table. Now I just hope I don't forget to read the sign!!! oh well. Chief

There will be several opinions on this, here's mine. I recommend you buy what you need as you need it and if possible, buy better quality than what you'll get in the kit. Some of the cost of the kits are for the projects, dyes and finishes that are included, many of those you won't need. Additionally, many tools you can buy elsewhere such as a good quality razor knife from Lowes, Home Depot, etc. The Kobalt brand at Lowes is very good. You may even already have some of the tools you need. If you're just starting out, I recommend you buy a 1 lb box of Leather Pieces to practice on, you can get them from most leather stores. If you're interested in Carving, you'll need a Swivel Knife, a beveler, camo tool, veiner, seeder, and pear shader, you can add other tools as you need them. If you're going to be sewing or lacing then you'll need the appropriate needles and thread or lace. Now all of these things are included in the beginner kits you see at Tandy and if you're so inclined, some of those tools will be useable. It's basically just up to you and how you want to go about it. Hope this helps and isn't too confusing, Chief

Yep, Wont look right the other way, center the whole thing. JMO Chief

I don't carve on anything I'm going to wet form. Both of your assumptions are correct and there is another thing as well. When wet forming and using boning tools to work the leather the carvings will be distorted and/or eradicated in the areas that you work the leather. I normally wet form, sew, then dip dye but I only do it on uncarved leather. It is probably possible and some other folks may know a better way, but I think if you wet form carved leather you give up detail in the carvings and the wet forming. Chief

That's very interesting, are these professional saddler practices published? I'd like to get a copy and see if there is something else I'm missing. Chief

I use tape as well but also use self adhesive shelf paper for wallets, Bible Covers, etc. I buy it by the roll and it lasts a long time, make sure it's the "permanent" adhesive one. They are not permanent but the stick well, protect the leather from stretching and peel off very easily. Chief