Chief31794

The technique of not connecting lines is standard for leather carving. You finish the connection with the beveler, this makes the lines flow much better and they appear to "come out" of the leather as opposed to just set on top of it. It is very important not to close the lines at points, like the end of leaves, etc. this prevents them from "tearing or separating". Keep in mind that the lines are very close, just not quite connected. The distance is less than 1/32" in most instances. Once you do it for a while it will seem natural to do it that way. That being said, do it anyway you wish, it is your art, however, tips like these are normally from leather workers who have learned them the hard way. Hope this helps. Chief

I use a round knife a lot and a straight knife too. One thing I do when there are curves etc, is I make the first cut with a hollow blade swivel knife. I cut about midway through the leather then finish the cuts with whatever knife I want to use for that particular project. I find I can cut the layout much more accurately with a swivel knife than I can freehand. Chief

Blackriver Laser makes them at a reasonble price, I have a couple and they work well for me. Chief

More than likely it is from the belly. Less "stretchy" straps would be cut from the back or better yet the shoulders. I could be wrong, that happens a lot!! Chief

Joyce If you do, I'll buy a set, I have a really good "old" Marine Corps Eagle Globe and Anchor and I have the remaining service emblems but they are newer and look like "Do-Do". Chief

Great suggestions all, I'll add one, for large projects, I use normal (unused) trash bags, put the item in and fold the bag up locking the dampness inside, works really well but won't last as long as a zip lock obviously. I've had items in a gargbage bag for 2 days with no problem losing mositure. One added plus for me is that it is fitting that my carving work should be in the "garbage." Chief

I mix it 1 tsp to a pint of water, others may use different concentrations. It isn't an exact science, if it doesn't clean quite well enough, add a little more crystals, if it seems too strong add a little more water. I use distilled water in all my shop operations, that prevents any other trace elements from affecting the cleaner. Chief

Kevin and the nice ladies at Springfield Leather are very good, they have excellent customer service and will sell you only what you need, they sell Herman Oak in 2 Sq Ft sections, you can order as many as you want. If you oder 10 sq ft, it will come as one 10 sq ft piece, they custom cut in any thickness you need. Chief

Leslie, First welcome to the forum, hand peening copper rivets isn't easy. Some of the things I do to get a better looking finished rivet is: 1. Cut the rivet consistently leaving only about 1/8", more makes it harder to get good results. I use a set of end cutters that are very strong and sharp and have no problem cutting through the rivet. 2. I peen the rivet end with the ball peen of the hammer befor using the domer. I use a small ball peen for this and work the edges of the rivet around in a circle to get the rivet end consistenly spread around. 3. I then file the rivet end with a fine file to smooth the rivet end. 4. Use the domer to get a finished end. Hope that helps, it still isn't an exact science. Chief

Then those aren't what I use, mine are rigid, won't bend, are about 1/4" thick, I get them from Tandy, SLC, almost anywhere that sells leather craft supplies. Here is a link to the ones I use, (Tandy) http://www.tandyleat...ts/1241-00.aspx Chief

Grizz, Yes it is a carving, I define a carving as something cut with a swivel knife and then tooled, If it is just stamped (like a basketweave) I call it hand tooling. Looks pretty good for a first attempt, they'll get better, but I think your self analysis is spot on. People do it different ways, weren't many places to learn when I started and not nearly a much info to research. Lots of people do things in different order. For example, there's nothing wrong with your sequence, but I've always used the sequence below. 1. Transfer the design to the leather with a stylus (I use tracing film and then use a stylus to transfer the design to the leather after it's cased) 2. Cut all the design lines with a swivel knife. 3. I start with a camo tool, I put a camo impression at the curl of each scroll. 4. I then use a seeder to put the seeds in the flower and at the center of each scroll end (Yours were blank, you might try it and see how it looks). 5. I then use the camo again to "outline" the seed pods in the flowers, and then blend them with a center shader. 6. I then use the pear shaders on the scrolls and either a thumbprint or a pear shader on the leaves and flowers, depending on what I think works best) 7. I then use various stops to accent lines that I think look better with a stop. 8. I put a v type stop at the base of any flowers with the bottoms showing for accent. 9. I use a set of leaf liners on the center of leaves as needed 10. Next I use the veiner on the edges of the scrolls and one side of the ascanthus (sp.?) leaves 11. Then I use the a narrower camo tool to match the veiner impressions on one side of the ascanthus leaves on the other side. 12. I use a camo tool to accent any stems that I think need it. 13. I use a mules foot to accent any of the stops I used on the ends of lines on stems, and under the base of flowers. 14. I use petal lifters to accent any petals or leaves and give them depth 15. Then I bevel everything (some people bevel first, I like to do it now because it cleans up any minor overstrikes along the edges of things where I used a veiner or camo tool and the areas where I used the petal lifters. 16. Then I do the backgrounding. 17. I then use the modeling tool to clean up and oversights (i use it all through the process to help shape lines, stems, edges, etc.) 18. I then use the swivel knife to add decorative lines to leaves, petals, thorns on rose stems, cut the edges of rose leaves if they were used, etc. 19. Take a break. That's just my way, I'm sure there are many others, just as good and many better. This works for me. Chief

I use these magnets a lot and they are very strong, it's hard to know why your's aren't, you are using both magnets from the set and not just the magnet on one side and the metal plate on the other aren't you? The metal plates go against the leather on the back side and the two magnets have to be positioned so that the exposed magnet faces (under the liner), come together and have the poles aligned correctly. The magnets will only attach to each other effectively with the poles in one direction, if they are flipped the magnets will not hold very well. Don't know if that helps. I also use these under a 2oz liner, I use a 4 oz leather backing and a 2oz liner with the magnets glued to the backing and facing the other magnet when the clip is closed. People have trouble opening them they are so powerful. Chief

Harag, I don't paint very much and never paint the back of leather. If you mean you are going to apply a stain, then you want to use gum trag after staining. Many stains will not penetrate the gum trag. If it is paint, maybe some of the great painting artists out here will chime in. I would test it first on scrap to make sure you will get the effect you want. Slicking the back isa lot of work, I normally sand them on a 3" wide belt sander, then finish sand with very fine sand paper in a sanding block. Then dye the back, let it dry thouoghly, then apply a light coat of gum trag and work feverishly with a glass burnisher or if it is narrow enough ( less than 1") I use a coco bolo burnisher in the drill press to accomplish the slicking. Like I said, experiment first on scrap. Hope that helps. Chief

On starting the stitches I agree with everyone, hold a little tension on the threads. When I start, I turn the project around and sew 3 stitches to the beginning, then turn it back around and sew to the end then reverse to lock the end. If I sew forward then reverse then forward again it puts three stitches in the starting holes and can start to bunch up if you're not real careful. When I trim the beginning and end I melt the threads as Twin Oaks said. I do a lot of hand stitching but sew with the machine when the runs are long, 20" or less I normally hand sew. Chief

Drill presses are very handy in leather work. I use both a full size drill press and a dremel drill press. I keep one of Bearman's burnishers mounted in the large drill press, works great, use it on almost every job. Great looking Seat, excellent job, glad the video helped. Chief

Welcome to the forum, great place with lots of great people willing to share things they've learned the hard way. Chief

I'm not sure why they would tell you that they may have good reasons, I always sew the same thread on top and bottom and I've never seen goods that used different sizes. I've seen different colors for effect but not different sizes. I would check with other manufacturers. Chief

Marcel, Gum Tragacanth is a slicking agent used to aid in the burnishing of edges or backs of leather. It is not entirely necessary, although it is more permanent than plain water. I use it as the very last step in burnishing edges, I use water with a little saddle soap before dying and burnish the edges with that, then I dye normally, then redo the edges with Gum Trag to seal the edge. There is a lot of work to do before you start burnishing (edging and sanding). Don't use Gum Trag before dying, as most dyes will not penetrate it. Sheridan sells a product that is supposed to be a lot better, it's called Wyo Quick Slick and is water based if I'm not mistaken. I haven't tried it, but I've heard good things about it. I have a quart of Gum Trag to use before I think of buying anything new. It works, just have to follow the steps. Chief

I think Dwight hit it on the nail, leather was too wet. The mallet or maul strikes should be taps, not pounds. Properly cased leather will tool very well with light taps. To case the leather there is a great tutorial by Bob Park (Hidepounder) pinned to the top of the How do I do that forum page. Basically, you wet the leather well but not soggy, then let it dry a little, no moisture standing on the leather for sure, most then put it in a zip loc or other type of sealable plastic bag and leave it over night so that the moisture works it's way into the core of the leather, then remove it from the bag, let it dry some more until the color is almost natural and you'll have several hours on average to carve and detail your piece, if you have to add any water at all, do it very lightly do not re-wet the leather thoroughly once you've started carving. Properly cased leather will give a great deal of detail with very little pressure from the tools. I noticed you didn't bevel all of the lines, even your border lines should be beveled, there are books a plenty on this topic, but basically if you cut a line with your swivel knife it should be beveled. I would also practice cuts with the swivel knife and never close two lines in a point like on the end of a leaf, leave a small (very small) space between the lines then "close" them with the beveler. Look at some of the carvings on here from the great carvers, and look closely at how they use their tools. If you have a Tandy close by, I would recommend getting into a carving class when they're offered. If not, the videos and books are the 2nd best way to learn. Hope this helps, it's not meant to be critical. The best thing you can do is practice, then practice some more, then finally practice some more. Chief

I had the metal and I now have the wooden, I have a draw guage but I don't like it either, the wooden one gets the job done for me. Chief

Ask away, best way to get information. This is a great site with lots of really good leather craftsmen and craftswomen, and someone normally has an answer for you in their particular specialty. Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of leathercraft. Chief

I'd try Ohio Travel Bag, google them, they have a $35.00 minimum order for businesses, not sure what the minimum order is if you don't have a business license or tax number. Give them a call, they are very accomodating and carry a great line of quality hardware. Specific hardware like buckles and such you can get better quality from like Weaver or a couple of other places, OTB carries lots of different types of hardware, nearly anything you use in leather work, they got it. Chief

Have to agree with Barry King Bevelers, I have a set of smooth and checkered and wouldn't bevel with anything else. As Cyberthrasher said, hard to explain the difference, but it's there. Chief

Really nice, the eyes are the hardest to get and you nailed em'. Just beautiful. Chief

You could also put two line 20 snaps (male part) in the interior just below the fold, then put two line 20 snaps (female) in the strap and make the strap a solid loop, then she could wear it with the strap or remove it when she wanted to use it as a true clutch. Chief