Chief31794

I would dip dye it and let it dry thouroughly. Spots are normally cause from uneven penetration and over penetration from the back when using daubers or wiping on. Dip dying gets a thorough dye consistently over the entire project. Chief

Nearly all black dyes are going to have residual pigment on the surface after they dry. You can buff it really well before applying a finish and that will take care of it. Resolene or Tan Kote, etc will remove the remainder after buffing (a lot of buffing). I think you will find that Fiebings Pro Oil Black is a little better than the USMC black. I used USMC for a long time, but converted to Pro Oil dyes, they work better. I also mostly dip dye projects which causes them to absorb more dye, as well as I use denatured alcohol to "open up" the surface a little before I dye. I wipe the denatured alcohol on then immediately dip the item into the dye. But still, nearly all blacks will require a lot of buffing to remove the residual pigment on the surface. Just my opinion, others may have other methods or better dyes. Chief

Welcome Steve and thanks for your service. I did 21 and retired in 1990 (US Army Chief Warrant Officer Three, Retired) Post photos and people will be glad to give you friendly, courteous and good advice about how you might do things better, great way to learn. I wish we had of had a forum like this 45 years ago when I started, but then we didn't even have computers much less internet. Take advantage of it and enjoy your well earned retirement. Chief

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and happy tapping next year to everyone on the site. This is the best forum I've ever been associated with and I've been on some good ones. Chief

The videos are out on you tube under chief31794. I took down the double loop and two tone lacing videos as there were a lot of complaints about the quality of the video. Many people thought they helped, I thought they would be good for people who were experienced but might need a little kick start to get them going. I got some nasty comments about all they could see was my arms, etc. I'm not a professional videographer, just trying to help. I've had a few requests for the two tone lacing video as it was a help to some folks, I'm going to go back do it over and post a little better version. I will post out here when that happens and it will be after Christmas as I'm on vacation away from the shop staying with my Grandchildren. The Mexican Round Braid (also called Round Basket Weave Braid) is still out there as well as some videos I made for Black River Laser on how to use some of their templates. Thanks for the comments, Chief

I use Neat Lac mostly, never used RTC. I love the Neat Lac except for one thing. For some reason if you use Feibings USMC Black, the Neat Lac will "dissolve" the dye a lot. Doesn't happen with anything else but maybe this will keep someone else from messing up a project using USMC Black which I like a lot, although I've changed to Feibings Pro Oil Black, I haven't tried Neat Lac on it, I normally use Angelus Gloss Finish on Black becuase I like the shiney black look. Chief

I only use USPS Priority Mail with Click and Ship, I provide my customers with a tracking number and track them myself. I've only had one incident it the past three years, a customer had moved and it took about two weeks for the package to show up, but it did. She had contacted me and I was preparing to replace the item and ship again for free when she notified me that the item had arrived. I would rather replace an item than have an unhappy customer. I've shipped through USPS International First Class about 15 times and never had a problem even though you can't track them and it depends on at least two different postal systems. I always insure the package for my raw material and time costs and include the cost of that in my shipping charge so I can recover the cost should a package get lost or stolen. Chief

Same thing as you. Try some clear lac, I apply it with sheep wool and basically rub it in, it is a lacquer based finish, dries quickly, doesn't flake or crack and looks really good. There are some dyes that it will "dissolve" it seems so I use it mostly on Angelus Dyes, Fiebing Antique Dyes. I don't use it on Fiebings USMC, when I use Fiebings USMC I use Resolene (50/50) on it. Saddle Lac would probably be okay if it were not in a spray can and you could cut it 50/50 with Distilled Water. But to me it is too tacky and too thick. Like I said, thats just my opinion. Chief

There are many finishes on the market and IMO Super Sheen is the next to the last one on the list. I like Clear Lac best, Resolene (Cut 50/50 with distilled water) next, Angelus High Gloss (isn't really high gloss), TanKote (Cut 50/50 with Distilled Water), Fiebings Aussie if weather protection is an issue. The worst product I've tried is Saddle Lac and then comes super sheen from tandy just a little ahead of Saddle Lac. Just my opinion, I'm sure others have their favorites. Chief

Mandolin Strap I made recently, not too much different than a Guitar strap but only 2" wide (sometimes 1-1/2") and the technique for attaching the front of the strap to the Mandolin. It is attached either by looping it through the scroll on a F-Style Mandolin and then pulling the strap through the leather thong or by tying it around the headstock just after the nut on A-Style Mandolins. Chief

I keep my dying table covered with butcher paper, really inexpensive and when it gets bad, I wad it up and throw it away. I wear Nitrile Gloves when dying. stays pretty clean. Chief

I wrap the gun in saran wrap and leave it in till the holster dries. Just my way of doing it, others may do it differently. Chief

I cut resolene with distilled water. Chief

Totally agree with dirtclod, my only other trick to cutting straight is when I start cutting I cut in shorter lengths and multiple passes, I don't try to cut the entire side at one time and I cut very lightly to keep from "pulling" the leather. That plus an extremely sharp knife and cork backed ruler should make your life less challenging. I also always check my scratch awl lines to make sure they are square before starting cutting. I do that by measuring from corner to corner, the measurement should be exactly the same. Chief

Eco Flo Super Shene will resist, but it is not very good at doing go, a better resist is Clear Lac available from almost anyone but Tandy, for example Springfield Leather Company. If you must use super shene make sure you let it dry at least 12 and preferably 24 hours befor applying the antique. Highly recommend you try Clear Lac. Chief

There is no difference between Neat Lac and Clear Lac, they are the same thing. I would throw the saddle lac in the trash personally, others may like it, I don't. Neat Lac is no longer available, that's the old name, clear lac is available from Springfield Leather Company and a few others. It is the best finish I've found. It can be used as a resist to enhance carvings when used along with antiquing paste. The steps I use are Dye, let dry at least 12 hours, Oil, let dry at least 4 hours, then apply Clear Lac, let dry 12 hours, buff with sheep's wool. It is an excellent finish. If an item is going to be out in the weather a lot, then you might consider using Fiebing's Aussie, it is a beeswax based finish that provides a lot of protection against the elements. With Aussie, I put it on fairly thick, heat it with a hair dryer till it liquefies and then wipe off the excess, this lets the beeswax get into the leather to protect it. If you wan to antique an item then the steps use are: 1. Dye (can be skipped as well)/ dry for at least 12 hours 2. Oil / dry for at least 4 hours 3. Apply Clear Lac / let dry at least 12 hours 4. Apply Antiquing Paste / wipe off excess (get the paste down In the depressions good. Let dry at least 8 hours 5 Apply another coat of Clear Lac / Let dry at least 12 hours 6. Buff project with sheep's wool. There are other ways, these are the ones I use. Chief 4 2.

I use poster board, but I don't save holster patterns or sheath patterns, each one is custom to the knife or weapon. I have acrylic templates for guitar straps, banjo straps, and rifle slings which I got from Blacklaser.com. They do a great job, Other than the straps I mentioned most of what I do is one off custom work and I don't save the patterns. Chief

I use a large set of end cutters as well, snips them off leaving a small amount above the washer, just the right amount to peen down and dome for good looking rivets. I use the No 9 Rivets and I haven't been able to cut them with diagonal cutters, I bought my end cutter at Lowes in the tool area. Get the longest ones, mine are about 14" long. Chief

Thanks Red, I set up at most of the craft fairs around, hadn't heard of any Cowboy Clubs, I'll look into that. Chief

Thanks shadow ruder

Totally on the mark, I use TanKote as well and cut it 50/50 with distilled water. Both are too concentrated in their purchased form in my opinion. Not to mention that you get twice as much finish. Chief

Aaron, I used Fiebings Antique Dye and it was applied before putting on Clear Lac, I then wiped it off, then when it dried I finished it with Clear Lac. Ken

Thanks Pete, It is Medium Brown Antique, I apply it with sheep's wool then wipe it off with soft cloths. Chief

This is a belt I made a little while back. Not much call for these anymore in my area, everyone wants just a plain 1-1/2" belt with a normal buckle. Let me know what you think. Chief

I always store my bulk leather loosely rolled and secured with a shoelace. Never had a problem. Not sure of the problem you're having without seeing a picture, but I always dampen leather before laying it out and cutting pieces, it causes it to lay flat and the cuts are smoother. Herman Oak is shipped to me rolled and I keep it that way. It also protects the grain side from the light which can and will cause darkening. I wouldn't think your problem is because you stored your leather rolled unless you're rolling it very tight. Any curl you find in leather should be able to be corrected with dampening the leather, if not, then the piece is "marred" in that area and should be cut around and tossed. I could be wrong, Lord knows that happens often enough. Chief