Chief31794

The Pigskin Split is an option, but if she's that picky, I'd suggest she design and make it herself. I line holsters with Pigskin Splits and it has a nice soft feel and holds up well. Chief

Hadn't seen too many of these out here. Had people around here interested (not many), so I put one together without much fuss just to see how they would look. I learned a few things about shoulder holsters. Hope these don't make much of a comeback. Chief

I didn't think you guys would buy it if I said it was my 2 cents worth. LOL Chief

I've always priced at $XX.99, course I got an MBA and had to learn a lot about marketing. If this technique was not effective then every retailer in America and I assume Canada wouldn't use it. You will not find much merchandise in a retail store that is an even dollar amount. Cars are priced at $XX,X95.00 because $29,995.00 seems a lot better than $30,000.00 It is just human nature that 29 thousand XXX sounds better than 30 thousand dollars. Just my 1.99 cents worth, I could be wrong that happens a lot lately. Chief

Some folks want the Maker's Mark prominently displayed so as to identify the item as "Custom", I normally don't put one on purses or wallets, because there is no where that doesn't detract from the appearance of the item,. On Bible Covers, I put it inside on the back flap, holsters I normally put it on the back unless they indicate in the order that they want it on the front, then I normally put it next to the rear belt slot. I wont put one on a fold over holster unless it's on the belt loop in the back. Belts I put mine right behind the chicago screw where the skiving stops, it is normally covered by the belt tongue. I always ask the customer if they want it marked or not, most say yes, some say no, some don't care one way or the other. It makes no difference to me as long as the check doesn't bounce. Chief

I've found that some dyes and some finishes just don't do well together, the only finish I've found that hasn't removed anything yet is Angelus Acrylic Finish. I've just started using Mop&Glo cut 50/50 with distilled H20, so I can't be sure about that either, but it might work. I would test each color on scraps till I found the color and finish that works well. I'm not a chemist, but it is rather frustrating. I use Clear Lac a lot and it works on most stuff, but I was using USMC Black and it would totally dissolve that dye, however, when I changed to Feibings Pro Oil Black, I didn't have the same problem. Chief

Welcome, Chief

I don't have checks on my business account either but it is with Bank of America and they will send a check wherever I want it to go, I go online, pull up BOA and go to Payees and schedule a payment to RJF once Roger lets me know how much, BOA sends it out and it's a bank check so he doesn't have any problem with it either. Works OK, just can't believe that he doesn't take plastic! I've looked at the shoulder I got and it is beautiful, the back is firm and smooth and really looks nice, the surface has a sheen to it, so I am going to carve something and dye it, just to make sure it takes dye well. It is supposed to. His prices aren't bad either. Chief

I totally finish the leather (carve or tool if required, dry, dip dye, dry, buff, oil, dry, buff, finish, buff, buff, dry, buff etc. Then I assemble the project, finish edges with either lace or burnish depending on the project. Chief

Mine came in, I ordered a double shoulder in Natural and a Drum Dyed side of Mahogany. They both look great, but he sent Black instead of the Mahogany so he's sending the right color and it'll be here tomorrow. I love the look and feel of the leather, I have a holster order waiting for the Mahogany, I'll let you know after I get it in and start working with it. The natural was for stock to convert into Belts, Instrument Straps or Rifle Slings, and I don't have any orders for those at this time. This was a test order, so far I'm impressed. Roger was very nice and easy to deal with, even though it was my first order, he sent the leather at the same time I was sending the check so it didn't cause any delay. Chief

I have the same motor on a 3200 and it has a full range of speed, using about 3/4 of the adjustment on the dial to go from 0 to as fast as I want to go, but the control isn't overly sensitive. Chief

Tandy, SLC, etc. They come 10 to the pack and that will last a long time. Chief

My bank offers the same service with a free reader as well. There are many ways to take payment these days. Has paid off for me at shows more often than I thought it would. I use Square Up because I started with them and they do a good job. I may change to Bank of America just to consolidate it all under one roof. Chief

I use T-8 florescent Daylight Bulbs, I have them in the ceiling for general light and then a 4 foot with 2 bulbs hanging over each table in the shop (dye, sewing, sanding and assembly), then a 4 bulb fixture hanging over my carving table with two florescent bulbs in moveable lamps on the carving table that are directed onto the slab. Chief

Thanks, Chief

You have to tilt it towards you a little, take some scrap, make sure the blade is sharp and work it for a while, it becomes easy. One thing is that it takes the leather off in small slivers, you can't skive to 1/2 thckness in one pass. I normally start on the edges and then take down the stuff in the middle, I use the edges to keep me in line with the thickness I want and then I take the middle area down. On belts, I normally then take it to the Oscillating Spindle Sander with 240 grit and smooth the skived area a little. Mine is old, old and I heard that some of the new ones don't work quite as well. Never tried one of the new ones, but this one works like a charm. Chief

it's a little over 5/16" thick, then the buckle strap is ~1/4", I used 9/10 oz Hermann Oak and laminated it flesh side to flesh side on the main belt and the strap is 8/9 oz 2-1/2" with a 2/3 oz liner. The main strap is ~48" long and the main strap is 4" wide while the lumbar support is 8" wide, the buckle and tongue straps are 2-1/2" wide. The center hole is set at 39" which was the customer's measurement for the belt so he can go up or down ~4". The thing ways over 6 lbs. Chief

I use a hand skiver I've had for many years, they don't cost much and do a good job, there is a slight learning curve to get used to how the achieve the result you want. I have a splitter that I use sometimes but the hand skiver is just as quick and very easy to use. Chief

Had a couple of requests for these, hadn't seen any out here so I thought I'd post. I've ordered a Cowboy 3200 from Toledo Sewing Machines, had to get this out, wish I could have waited. This is a lot of hand sewing, won't do it again by hand. Chief

Tooling leather from reputable suppliers is Vegetable Tanned Leather. Veg Tan is sold as sides, bends, bellies, shoulders, double shoulders, etc. They are different and used for particular applications, however, most of it is interchangeable with the exception of Belly, it is used mostly for cases and goods that don't require as much strength and resistance to stretching. Springfield leather is the only one I know of that sells pieces of leather in as small as 2 sq ft pieces, most sell by the side, shoulder, double shoulder, Bend, Double Bend, etc. Tandy has a information section on their website, that explains where all the cuts come from I think Springfield does as well and RJF leather has a diagram showing where the different cuts of leather are taken from. I'm pretty sure most of the suppliers do. Hope that helps, Chief

I tried some but didn't like em, I don't know if I wasn't setting the staple right or didn't have the right tool, but they didn't look good to me, I hand sew mine so I went back to that. Chief

Thanks, I appreciate the info. Chief

I don't think so, but I see you're on ETSY, they handle credit cards for you without a square account or they'll allow customers to use PayPal if they choose to do so. I only use the Square at craft fairs and for local transactions in the shop. Chief

Sorry David, I get Senior Minutes once in a while, Square D is the breakers I use in the shop electrical system it is Squareup, they gave me a little device I can plug into my Ipad to swipe cards, but I can also just enter numbers into the system manually over the Ipad or computer (on their site), and the money is moved to my account before the sale is executed. Chief

Hey, If they don't have a tutorial on check writing, how about videoing it when you write yours and post it for the rest of us, lol. He has an email, not sure why he won't at least open a PayPal Account. I have a Square D and can take credit cards anywhere. Hope the leather is worth it. Chief