Chief31794

Another great looking cover, the 2/3/2 looks good, did that work ok for you? Chief

Bob, First, thanks for your service. Totally agree, although I have a business license and do this pretty much full time, I don't depend on it, it is "fun" money and keeps me busy. I just get frustrated with corporations that forget how they got where they are. Thanks, Chief

Weaver sells good ones starting around $80.00(~$100.00 for the fancy version), you can get a good one from Tandy (one of the few good tools they sell) for ~$23.00 retail, less if you're gold or elite. Springfield sells the CS Osborne for a little over $50.00, a search on Google or Yahoo will find a bevy of sources with prices ranging from ~$5.00 on upward. I have an old Tandy one that I've used for decades, looks just like the ones they're selling now and it has served me well. Chief

My feed dog was loose and when I put it in right, the feed dog rubbed against the side of the throat plate, I filed the side of the feed dog so that it cleared well. The arm that relases the thread tension when you raise the foot was loose so I thightened that up. Generally I removed that linkage, and some of the other components and cleaned them, made sure they fit well and put them back on the machine corrrectly. I think my machine was shipped before Bob or Bobby got a good look at it because I had asked them to delay shipping while I was out of town and when the time got close I called and they had forgotten about my order, I understood, but I think they then rushed one out the door. I worked in a Sewing Factory for 10 years and although I wasn't the mechanic, I am pretty savvy about industrial machines so it wasn't a big deal to me. One thing I found that I still don't particularly like although Bob and Bobby told me that this is the way the 3200 is shipped is that the bottom tension wheel shows two felt washers in the books but mine didn't have any. It hasn't caused any problems yet but I think it might later on. Not sure where I could get those, I don't think Toledo carries parts like that, they carry the accessories and could probably get the parts but since they told me it was normal I think I'll get them somewhere else and try them out. The tension wheels should be the same on all 441 clones in my opinion. Not complaining, I consider most of this to be operator maintenance and care. Chief

My check spring on the 3200 was catching the thread so I closed the loop with a pair of pliers so that I had to thread it through the eye of the check spring instead of wrapping it in, that solved some problems for me, don't know if that's what you're talking about, but my take up spring would catch the thread and then it would loop over the spring when it loosened as I remember. There were several little things I did to make mine run smooth, didn't take long just tweaks. Chief

If the other 8oz lining leather is a "Soft" leather that's probably all you need. If I Pad a strap, I use 1/8" thick foam glued to the main strap area then I glue the lining to the strap with the padding sandwiched between (I leave it about 1/2" from the edge. Then trim the lining and sew the lining in. I normally use 9/10 oz leather with a 2/3 oz liner when I Pad, but I think the 8/8 with the lining being soft would be very nice. Chief

You are right sir, I think I was typing faster than I was thinking. I'm also on vacation with my Grandchildren and that seems to be distracting although I don't know why!!! Thanks, Chief

They can be as wide as you want, however, standard size is nominally 2-1/2" at the widest point (maybe a little less), and the ends should be only 1" wide, that is what standard rifle swivels will accept. Standard length is about 44" from tip to tip. Again it can be as long as you want keeping in mind that if you're cutting it from a double shoulder then about 50" is okay, longer and you'll need to get that from a side. Those are general, I cut my strap for the sling 2-1/2" X 50" then I have a template that I use to cut the 44" by tapered 2-1/4 to 1" from. Hope that helps, like I said, those are the standard ones I make, you can make them longer, wider, narrower, shorter, etc. Chief

Something is going on at Tandy. I haven't used them for leather for years, I do get a few things from them from time-to-time for convenience, but that is probably going to stop. I got a notice in my last order from Springfield Leather that Tandy, out of the blue, gave them notice that they could no longer get distributor pricing so Springfield would no longer be able to resell Tandy supplies at Elite level, they were going to have to add 15% I think it was. I don't care cause I don't order Tandy stuff from them, but that combined with the price increases discussed above seems to indicate that they are changing policies. I wonder how long before they stop giving me elite status for free? I'm a Disabled Veteran Small Business and they've always sold to me at Elite prices. I just have a feeling that they may change their policy on that as well. I've complained about their quality plenty, I started buying from them in 1970 and at that time you could get some good quality stuff from them. I have been buying hardware from them, no tools, no leather, some lining (their pig splits are pretty decent), but I think that is all going to change. Too bad, without Tandy over the years, many people wouldn't have gotten into leather, me included. Oh well, enough ranting, they should just go ahead and move from Fort Worth to China and be done with it. Chief

Looks really great. Love the "Job" theme, being spit out of the whale. Chief

Looks good Colt, Nice job for your first time lacing. I see a few "layout" lines, you can eliminate them by using a tsqare ruler and lining your slit punch up to the measurement from the edge you've decided on, takes a little more time but it eliminates the layout lines. Your lacing is great, you might think about going through the hole just before the corner hole and the one just after twice, it looks like you went through the one after but not the one before it wil balance the look and help you transition around the corner a little better. I usually go twice through the one before and the one after and three times through the corner hole itself, many go 2/2/2 but I always liked the 2/3/2. Nothing wrong with the way you did it, I think it just makes it smoother around the corner, I also enlarge the three holes mentioned to accomodate the extra passes. With slits I do that with a lacing fid. Great job! Chief

Bob, dont know if you did or not but another thing that helps is that I enlarge the three corner holes or slilts somewhat to accomodate the extra lace going through. Chief

Bob, You might try twice through each of the holes beside the corner hole and three times through the corner hole, I've tried it every way possible and that's what i've found works best for me. The cover below was done using the 2/3/2 technique. Looks great, really nice work. Chief

Blackriver Laser is making some of the dies for the Tandy Press, I did a video on Youtube for them demonstrating them. It is at the bottom of the link Tree Reaper provided. I'm not sure if they're making the ones for snaps yet but they will be. Call Joyce. If they are not, why wouldn't you buy them from Tandy or Springfield, etc. the same places where you buy the presses. Weaver carries a full line as well I believe. Chief

Looks great, nice work. Chief

When I started making them I thought they would be pretty much standard, I was wrong!!! I measure or have the customer measure the width and hight of the front cover and the thickness at the spine, i then add 1" for the height (1/2" on top and bottom), and 3/4" for each side (Total 1.5") plus 1/4 inch for the fold to the width of the cover X 2 plus the thickness. Hope that makes sense. It would be nice if they were all the same size then you could make them up and sell them at craft fairs, etc. but each one has to be custom measured or at least that's what I've found. To center the panels I make the border 1/2" from the top and bottom, 3/4" from each side and the width of the panel is the measurement of the cover. That leaves the panel centered and an area down the spine to put the Title. Hope that helps. I love your work by the way, your guitar straps are both unique and beautiful as well as your other work. Thanks, Chief

I haven't had that problem, but I play a US made 74 Martin D-28, I did have a representative from the Martin company try to confiscate it after they heard me play, when that didn't work they offered to buy me any of their competitors guitars if I'd just quit playing theirs in public. I'm not sure what all that was about! LOL. Chief

I wouldn't call it easily portable. It came shipped to me on a pallet. You could take it off the table, and take the legs off the table, but it would still take up quite a bit of room. It took me about 2 hours to get it set up with two of us working on it. Chief

I'm with Dwight on this one, I like hand stitching and do it for small items and attaching belt loops, etc. But for instrument straps, belts, etc. It is just too time consuming and causes me serious pains in my arthritic hands, I also had thoughts of putting my boss in a car crusher at the local junk yard from time to time so I sold it and bought a Cowboy 3200, love it, it sews a lot better and leaves both of my hands free to guide the material as it moves. Chief

I use USMC Black a lot, I have the Pro Oil Black as well but I can't really tell a difference. With the browns and tans, I get much better results with Pro Oil, but I haven't had any problems what so ever with USMC Black. I always dye first then let it dry over night, then buff it a lot then apply a couple of coats of Pure Neatsfoot Oil, then let it dry overnight again then apply a good finish. I really like the Mop&Glo/Water (50/50) finish on this dye. Chief

Thanks Papaw, God Bless America and those that defend her. Please remember that while we celebrate freedom and enjoy our nation's birthday, there are Soldiers, Sailors, Airmen, and Marines currently defending freedom and in harm's way so that we have the freedom to spend our day as we wish. Think of them today and as you enjoy your family think of theirs, supporting our service men and women while they are separated. There should be a medal given to service member's families for the sacrifices they make. Chief

Looks great Dwight. Chief

You might want to check the feed dog, you have to remove the bobbin shuttle to tighten it but you should be able to see if it's loose by wiggling it with your finger. Mine came with the feed dog loose, a couple of other screws loose, etc. As was previously said, call youir dealer. Chief

After dying, I just don't think that shoe polish seals the leather to prevent dye "rub off", it is more of a conditioner and "polish", a good finish would be like Clear Lac, Resolene, Mop&Glo, etc. The resolene, tankote, and mop&glo are normally cut 50/50 with distilled water. Either of those is a decent "finish", i also use Fiebings Aussie on leather that will be used outdoors a lot (rifle slings, etc) Chief

Agree, I use it from time to time to get a nice sheen before I apply a final finish, I wouldn't consider shoe polish a "finish", but that's just me, I could be wrong, it happens a lot lately. Chief