Chief31794

That dye should not cause issues with the wax, I never particularly like the dyes with the finisher built in, if it were me, I'd get Fiebings Pro Oil Black, dip dye it, let it dry, buff it well, then do the waxing you're talking about, dwight has a good tip about dipping the item in the melted wax. Chief

I would definitely dye the piece first, the wax will impede the dye, it may not completely block it, but it will make the dye blotching for sure. Dye will not prevent the leather from absorbing the wax but the wax will affect the dye if done first. Chief

Nicely done, Chief

Thanks, I've always liked that technique as well. Chief

This thread is brown, however, I buy thread from "The Thread Exchange", this is 277 and is the same thread I used on my Boss as well. I have Black and it works really well on both as well. Chief

Allan, Thanks, same issues I had, this belt took no more than 15 minutes to thread the machine, run a test, and then sew the belt. I'm getting too old to pull waxed thread for over 5-6 hours for a belt or guitar strap. Grizz1, I picked that up some time ago, I believe it was a Tandy mail out, or maybe a video, or something, however it is really easy to do. I make a light center line, then very lightly estimate the first position on each side, then make the second lightly and adjust them to get them to line up with each other and the center line. I believe someone said that Tandy has a book that has it as well, I'll look around and let you know. Eddie, This is 277 thread and a #25 needle. Thanks all, Chief

I know what you mean, I had a Boss, it sewed okay but I'm not as coordinated as I should be and holding the material with one hand while cycling the handle with the other didn't work well for me. I sold it to a knife maker here locally and put some with it and got the 3200, I never sewed or had a need to sew anything near the 3/4" level that I had on the Boss, so it didn't seem like a big deal to go with the 3200 and so far it hasn't. I'm really liking it. Chief

Thanks, yes that's always been a favorite of mine as well. Thanks, Chief

Yep, Thanks Chief

JLS, you were right on target the first time. My needle wasn't aligned properly. I thought it was, and it looked right to the naked eye. I made an alignment tool (a small jewelers flat tip screwdriver) that perfectly seats in the eye, then the handle is positioned straight out. I had it turned toward the front, I aligned it with the tool, sewed some scraps and no fraying, in fact perfect. Thanks so much. I love this forum, you can get good answers here almost always. Thanks, Chief

Thanks, I'll check that, if that is the case, what's the solution? Different thread? Ken

Thanks Colt, I changed the needle when I noticed it and it didn't help. I'm pretty meticulous about getting the needle aligned, it is a diamond shaped needle #25, sewing 277, the bobbin was nearly full. I'll check the needle alignment and even replace it again and see what happens. Ken

I purchased a CB 3200 and it sews well, I think the tension is ok, I have almost no tension on the primary and secondary and the thread pulls easily, however, when sewing the thread frays, right before going into the needle eye, I thought it might be old thread so I bought new thread and it's the same thing, White does it the least, Brown next and the Black does it the worst. Is this something in the machine or do I need to purchase a silicon pot? Any suggestions or ideas. Thanks Chief

I purchased a CB 3200 and it sews well, I think the tension is ok, I have almost no tension on the primary and secondary and the thread pulls easily, however, when sewing the thread frays, right before going into the needle eye, I thought it might be old thread so I bought new thread and it's the same thing, White does it the least, Brown next and the Black does it the worst. Is this somethng in the machine or do I need to purchase a silicon pot? Any suggestions or ideas. Thanks Chief

Finally got some free time in the shop to work with the sewing machine I bought from Cowboy Bob. So far I love it, it would have taken me a long time to hand stitch this belt, I needed a belt and needed to work with the machine to develop some skill, so here tis'. Chief

Springfield Leather sells Hermann Oak by the Sq Ft with a minimum of 2 Sq Ft. It is "B" grade but much better than anything I ever bought at Tandy. Very clean and tools and molds very nicely. Chief

I never lean under my table, the servo simply sets the top speed, not the bottom end, my foot control then gives me any speed I want from 0 to what ever max speed I have set the servo to. You would definitely never adjust the servo while the machine was stitching, unless I'm totally missing what you are saying. I can go from 1 stitch per minute to a 100 stitches per minute by pressing the foot control and can hold it at any of the speeds in between without stopping or leaning under the table. Chief

Thanks, That is mine, it's a 1974 D-28, I bought it new, it seems that the older they get the better they sound. This one's been to Japan, Korea, Germany twice, and all over the US, it has some battle scars. I had to retire the Blue Case, newer ones come with a black case but this one is from that other era. I still have the case but it's a little beat up from all the air travel over the years. Since I was trying out a new design, I thought I'd make a new strap for me to try it out. Chief

Welcome from the other end of Georgia, make sure you post some pictures of your projects as you progress. If there's anything you want to know about leather working post the question in the "How do I do that" section of the forum, also search the forum and you may find the question has already been asked and answered. If it isn't in the forum search and you post here, someone will answer your question, even if we have to make something up (just kidding), there probably aren't too many leather working questions that can't be answered here. It's also a very friendly site, ask away. Chief

Thanks, I think you're being too nice, I believe I've seen some of your lacing and it's awesome. Thanks Colt, Thank you, Chief

I use the plastic boxes with 24 or so drawers, I have a couple of them (three I think), they keep my hardware separated and handy. I use a smaller one of the same design with a little bigger drawers (9) to keep small tools that don't have a place on my pegboard. Like these: Chief

Perfect. Absolutely beautiful and extremely well done on all of them. Love the colors you get and also how you get those colors into the details, like Tinker Bell's eyes. That is ART!!! Chief

Thanks Cheryl, I appreciate the nice comments. Thanks, Chief

Yeah, I like the sliding keeper back there. Thanks, Bob, Thanks, I think it should be a little lighter as well. Thanks for commenting. Chief

Thanks Rohn, I had already started thinking about adding a sliding keeper, and since you noticed it too, I will definitely add one. There is a good solid eight hours in the lacing. Thanks, Chief Added a picture of the modified adjustment strap assembly. Chief