club49

You have my congratulations also.I am fairly new to leather working. What is shop talk all about?

I just started doing leather. I have sold a few things to friends and people from my club that I belong to. I mostly make belts. I am surprised as to how cheap some people are. They think nothing of walking around with a $5 plastic belt or should I say a genuine leather belt. I sold most of my belts for $35 to $40 to people that I know. These are not stamped, I use a creaser and I do make them from top of the line material. I haven't made a fraction of the money that I put into it. When I started I thought that I would buy a few tools and make some small cases and belts. I got hooked on buying tools. I was never the kind of guy that liked buying tools, until the leather bug bit. I am at the point where I have to start to make some money back. Can someone tell me how to go about it? I was going to set up a table at a flea market, I am not to crazy about flea markets. I live on the East coast, NJ. We do have a lot of them around, they are tough ones, they will steal your eyes out of your head, you know what I mean. Can some of you folks give me an idea of where to go with this? Thank you all, Jim

I noticed when I airbrushed one of my belts light brown. The natural color was coming through at the fold by the buckle. I only did one coat, I think I am going to do a few more coats and check it out. I do cut my dye 50-50 Fibbing's oil. Nice work Snubbyfan. Jim

I realize this is an old post, did any body out their try Saddle Lac spray? I just sent for a can, it is expensive $22 + SH, from Fibbing's. I am not going to do this to often, no matter how good it is. I know that charge more then most other sites for their own product. They told me that they have to do that because there wouldn't be any need for the other leather supply houses to sell their product. Makes sense. Jim

I am also a dip dyer and I just got into air brushing. I have a question for you Boriqua. Have you had any problem with the dye not penetrating deep enough into the leather when air brushing. Being that it is such a fine mist and very little dye is being used.Over a long period of time, I was wondering if the leather would get lighter? With dip dying, you are saturating you leather with dye. I have read articles that suggest using a lacquer before dyeing to cut down on bleeding. I have not tried it yet. I do love the effect of air brushing, the colors are much nicer and you can do a lot high lighting on the lighter colors. Jim

This get confusing, Thank you Tugadude. I have read articles that say, if you are using an oil base dye, put down a light coat of oil before you dye. If you are using spirt dye, spray a light coating of alcohol. I have tried both and I have not experienced any thing to complain about. My biggest problem is no matter what I try, I will still get some rub off. Thank all of you guys and gals for the suggestions. I would like to hear any rub off solutions. Jim

That looks like the one Weaver sells. Except yours is wood. It works very good for centering the punch. I am disappointed with it because they claim that the metal measuring rods make it quick and easy to get equal spaces between holes. You have to punch at least three holes before you can make any use of the rods. I sent an e-mail to them asking for instructions, they haven't answered yet. I spoke to them on the phone and was told that you have to punch at least two holes. I do like how it holds the belt, similar to yours CANUCK. I like yours better, you have the hand punch. Do you have something to space the holes? Jim

I just got the Weaver punch for belts, I like it much better then the single punch from Tandy. They have the oval hole or round. Jim

Buy on line, all the leather suppliers have sealers.

That is really something, thank you for letting us have a look at it.I hope you can find the maker.

I was hoping that Jack would give you an answer. I just purchased some Aniline dye from leather world. I can't wait to try it. I am also going to try Jacks suggestion. David, have you tried using the lacquer yet?

Hi Lightningad, I love your post, every time I thread a needle it comes to mind, can't help but laugh.I visualize this big guy slamming his mallet on the end of the tread, ya! that should do it. Jim

I wish someone could give an answer to this question. I am in the need of a new punch also. I have the cheap Tandy ones. The one that comes with 5 different size heads and I also have a Craft Tool single black punch.I have them a year or so, I am looking for a good oval punch. I live about 3 miles from the Osborn company, they won't sell direct, I get Osborn stuff from WBC company, last time I ordered it took three weeks, what a pain.I am not sure I want Osborn for this one. Jim

Try dyeing your edges using a piece of felt,held with a close pin. There is a whole step by step instruction posted by Bob Park. It is an excellent step by step instruction. I printed it out to keep by my work area. I am sorry I can't tell exactly where it is. Check out the site, he covers everything. It was under the heading, Finishing Edges.

Thank you for that answer, it makes sense. Does that also apply to weather proofing ?

I use the leather prep so the dye absorbs into the leather evenly. I feel that that the Neatsfoot oil will soften the leather and help to absorb the dye evenly also. I may have it wrong, that is why I am asking. If someone can explain the proper steps to take. I also have used oxalic acid to clean the leather, it becomes dry and hard, so I use the Neatsfoot oil. Do you ever run into a siltation where you use dye prep and Oxalic acid? If so, would you use the neatsfoot oil afterward? Thank you for the help. Jim

I purchased the HF brush, it came as a kit. I was using resolene cut 50%- 50% with H2O. I didn't have any problem spraying it. I didn't clean it the right way, when I tried to use it again, it was clogged. I put the tips in windex and soaked them, then it was fine. I read another post that said you are better off putting the finishes on by hand. I only spray the dyes, it is to much of a hasel cleaning it after using any of the finishes. Jim

If you are using leather prep, can you use neatsfoot oil before you put the leather prep on? Jim

I will stick with a knife, if I do buy a machine it will be made in the USA.I have enough problems reading instructions in English. Jim

I received mine yesterday.I am very happy wit it.

I would E- mail Bruce Johnson.He restores old tools,nice guy.Give him a call.He has a web site. Jim

I just received the Oosborn strap cutter, English tip. I am very happy with it.It is as sharp as a good knife.I JUST have to let my 6lb maul fall on it. I don't foresee any problems with it. Being this is an old post, maybe they got the message. Jim

Hi Tom, Thank you for the information I have to look into the correct way of downloading pictures.I am not PC savy. I try again.

I have the wood from Osborn, It works very good . It leaves more of a burnished look then the metal ones. It does depend on how you use it. When I am dyeing my belts black I rather use the metal one I have. Like I mention, the wood leaves a burnished look, looks much better with the browns or natural colors.

I am not sure how their creasers are, but they take for ever to deliver what ever you buy. I don't have the patience to wait that long.I am in my third week waiting for an order. Jim