fredk

I have the newer cast aluminium version but as far as I can tell all the accessories can fit either You may want to heed Northmount's warning, above. Another type of sewing machine used manually, with a balance wheel motion, might suit you better

I usually do it once using plenty of beeswax/carnauba wax. Just occasionally do I feel it necessary to go over a second time

I think you are looking at the weight problem too simply Take a 1cm thick belt. It may weight 24 ounces. When held it one hand that weight is noticeable but spread that weight around a 42 inch waist its hardly noticeable I liken it to what I used to tell ppl about my chainmaille hauberk; held in the arms its full 35lb weight could be felt, but as its worn on the body the weight is spread around, some on the shoulders, some on the arms et cetera and then it feels no heavier than a good overcoat

What is your definition of 'straight lacquer'?

yes

I would go with two layers of veg tan leather sewn together with a third layer of suede leather sewn on the inside

Double line stitching isn't really for strong construction, although it will help, but for water proofing. If you look at commercial goods, such as motorcyclists' jackets, you'll find they are double stitched, and they make a good deal of noise about it I don't use a sewing machine so I'd have to say, hand sewn saddle stitching. You can pull the stitches up really tight

I went almost 20 years without high priced tools. I still don't have all the fancy things you can buy. But the one thing I did buy and like and would not be without is my Tandy Pro-press. I use it for 3D/2D stamping, die cutting and now I've adapted some stitching chisels to fit it and I can punch stitching holes. All done quietly. A cheaper version of the Pro-press is available. I have a couple of the skiving machines but never use them, I always revert to my knives and Tandy Super Skiver for skiving. I use the ole' wooden strap cutter. Been using it for 24 years now, just a new blade every 5 years - joke, actually a new blade as often as required I buy a lot of things from China, mainly cos there isn't a dealer anywhere near me and they would have the same tools, made in China, but marked up by 400%.* I buy on ebay and pay via paypal that way I have buyer protection; If the tools are rubbish I can get my money back, but I very rarely get rubbish. I use a small tool for rounding my edges. Its sold on ebay as a leather edger at about £5 each. But I get them in the Beauty section, as cuticle trimmers at £4 per 10. I've bought quality French skivers at under £4 each. Leather dealers sell them for at least £20. Shop around, check different sections on ebay and you'll find good prices. Better than Amazon * look on the back of Tandy packaging, it will say made in China or Taiwan

I think; You would need a double sewing line; two lines spaced a few mm apart, and maybe the leather glued together as well

I use; 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, depending on what I'm making. But my favourite are these stitching holes pliers (they're the 2mm spacing)

If you use a round point stylus on the paper over damped leather you'll get a better impression

I found it would shrink quite a bit in any direction. It was totally unpredictable

I use the Tandy silver pens and white correction pens on dyed leather

I do the same as DieselTech

I've tried both The boiling water method tightened up this knife scabbard hanger and made it very firm I never liked using an oven. I found the results too unpredictable

a. I don't know anything about W&C b. you can stiffen up modest size pieces of leather yourself. By soaking in warm water then drying fairly quickly between two heavy boards*. Cover the boards in absorbent clean white paper. Your only limit is the size of the boards * or light thin boards with weights placed on them

If its iron contamination, the only way I can see that sort of spread is if some one used an angle grinder near the leather allowing the 'sparks' to land on it. The 'sparks' ain't sparks but very tiny pieces of hot metal

I've used my Singer 15K and 99 to sew thin upholstery grade leather. Its chrome tan about 1mm thick

That is an excellent idea. I may try it

If I remember correctly, the very earliest sewing machines used two large spools of thread. The top thread was pulled through the material by the needle and as the needle came up again a loop was made in the thread on the underside of the material. A shuttle, like the shuttle a weaver uses but in miniature, went though the loop pulling the second thread through. At the time this was efficient but prone to timing failures. As the invention of sewing machines progressed the bobbin as we know it was invented and was more efficient, with fewer timing failures. All the inventors adopted the cylindrical bobbin and its circular shuttle. Some fitted it vertical and some had it horizontal and some even had it at an angle, but its the same workings

Cut the stitching carefully. You can reuse the sewing holes. Skive all three mating surfaces. Some on the inside to make a tight fit with a bevel towards the outside.

I'm a total numpty when it comes to thing like this What size needles would I buy for my Boss?

It can be dyed, but I don't know about vinegroon as I don't use it If the chrome tan is pre-dyed, I use cellulose thinners as a prep. Then I dye it.

or, superglue a thin sliver of plastic to the edge of the ruler and carefully sand it away until its just right

Officers' shakos were made of beaver felt, rather than sheep's wool felt