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fredk

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Everything posted by fredk

  1. remember the sugar dispensers? you tipped it up and it gave 1 serving of sugar for your tea/coffee. I hard of other putting salt in them. I never did it tho
  2. We went a step further; in chippies we also drank the vinegar and replaced it with water and. . . . . we weren't so 'wee' when we stopped doing these things
  3. The Roman soldier's groin protector was the original 'kilt'. It looked like these, but of course much larger
  4. I use model paint all the time. Never had adhesion problems, except in trying to remove it! I use Humbrol & Vallejo mostly
  5. No, like regular double-sided tape but in sheets. I have A4 and A5 sizes
  6. If its cheap enough, and in working order or semi-working, I'd buy it
  7. @AaronStand , you should see the workers on other similar videos; no ppe and open toed sandals, or even bare feet, whilst pouring white-hot liquid metal into molds!
  8. Have you tried sheets of double-sided tape. Put it on the leather you are going to cut so it gets cut at the same time. Cut the second protective backing in small sections and peel off these sections, that way you can position it carefully before removing the rest of the backing and sticking it down. Roll a brayer over it a few times I've been using the sheets of d/s tape for some time now and its very handy and with no mess
  9. I came across this video of a sewing machine being built. The carcass of the sewing machine is already made and the video takes it and us right through to the finished working machine. I think its worth a watch. Its being built in a small works somewhere in the likes of Pakistan or Afghanistan, not in a big factory. No 'Health & Safety' in there! The sewing machine parts starts at about 25 min 38 seconds and goes to about 53 min 42 sec
  10. Generally yes. You need at least 2.5mm / 6-7oz
  11. I use a round hole punch to make holes for round lace which I sew on instead of thread. Like this; Its a Makin, aka a knitting belt. I've an order for x number of them Knitters use them in a style of knitting where one knitting needle is poked into one of the holes and held in place by the stuffing (no holes in back, just front). The belt is worn at the waist
  12. I'd forgotten about this Thank you for the pattern Altho, it doesn't seem to have that bit that tips over the forehead
  13. I use the straight slot with lacing. The leather & lace are under great strain and I've never had the slots rip I lace around the pouch on this then its stuffed full of horse hair until no more can fit in. It puts lots of strain on the leather and lacing
  14. Cut your leather oversize, dye and assemble then cut through the layers with a knife to get the project size Wet your leather, as if casing it, apply the dye diluted 1:1. Put on multiple coats until you get the depth of colour you like. This will eliminate the streaks
  15. If you slap some oil/enamel paint over the buckle area of the design, let it dry then polish it off it will leave the paint in the low parts of the engraved design making it stand out more, or as the American would say 'it would pop'
  16. I no longer make belts. I make other things and a half-round punch or die suits my needs. I have many but the items I'm making right now needs a size that I don't have. So I might buy another . . . .
  17. Le Prevo has some Kanga hides in stock. You could cut your own lace or, just a thot; maybe they would do it for you?
  18. I used regular contact adhesive when I did some re-upholstery work on a few cars. The c/a worked fine, almost too well at times
  19. On masking; go to a shop that deals with plastic modelers. There are several masking fluids available. One is Maskol by Humbrol. But you can also buy liquid latex and paint it on to the area to be masked. The latex works out cheaper and is the basis of all the other masking fluids. I've even used PVA glue as a mask
  20. If I'm having a session airbrushing acrylics I just rinse the a/b out with some alcohol then water, put in the new colour, spray a bit off target, on to some handy card, then continue on target. At the end of the session I clean out the a/b as above then strip it down and give it a good cleaning, especially the needle. You/I don't want dried paint in the a/b I recommend you get a couple of sets of these a/b cleaning brushes. If you shop around you can get them for about $2 a set. There are dearer sets but they are the same as the cheap ones
  21. If using Angelus paints I'd suggest using their recommended sealer. The Angelus paint may have an adverse reaction to Resolene or any other sealer
  22. A bargain! But I don't need one right now
  23. and they are cheaper. They work great on leather. They're the only paints I use Sometimes I spray a coat or three of resolene because I've found that brushing or sponging it on will lift the carefully made dyeing
  24. to this I'd add; put a description of what is on the front cover
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