fredk

Are you punching holes in the lining to match the Tandy holes? Use double sided tape along that bit Or just put the contact adhesive on the lining part and thinly, just enough to hold the lining in place

I think hardening is an option but not necessary as stamps can be made out of Delrin or brass as well as iron and steel

Bludy 'ell - I'm now 58 and 1/3 Where did all those years go?!? Old enough to know better and old enough to forget that Old joke Old persons protest What do we want? Better memory! When do we want it? Want what?

[my embolding] Soft, pliable stretchy, doesn't depend on the tanning method. Its the 'type' of leather, or where it came from on the animal. eg on cow and such animals [ buffalo, camel, horse] the part along the spine, the back, is thick and stiff, the belly part is stretchy and very pliable I have 2mm belly leather that stretches like rubber [ok, exaggeration but almost] and 2mm back leather that is very stiff; both are veg tanned. I also have 'upholstery' leather which is chrome tanned, some of it can be stretched but some is much stiffer. The chrome tanned is pre-dyed and lacquered; its various shades of brown, I can use it like that or dye it black, but I can't tool it. Its also 1 to 1.8mm thick, maximum You need to get veg tanned belly leather or upholstery leather or even 'clothing' leather - leather that is suitable for motorcycling 'leathers' is clothing leather which is stretchy

A thin [narrow] leather strip which goes between the two main pieces of the leather, along an edge, on a holster, sheath or shoe is called a welt For handiness it can be lightly glued in place and sewn thru when the two main pieces are sewn together. Contact adhesive or double-side tape can be used to hold it in place

If you have a bit of pigskin or deer and you want to know; try wet moulding it. Veg tan will mould, chrome tan won't [in my experience anyways]

What way has the mould warped? Photos please

Deep stamp impression, two coats, high sheen looks like high moisture & oils content Shallow stamp impression, leather soaking up 4 coats of dye looks like dried/drying out leather to me Try giving it a light coat of neetsfoot oil. Let that soak in for a couple of days and try a test piece again

All leathers can be chrome tanned or veg tanned. You need to ask the tannery you buy from what tanning the leather got that you want to buy

Has the leather been stored anywheres its been able to dry out?

That looks very nice. Warped mould? scrap it. Its not worth the heartache and cost of wasted leather if it doesn't do the job properly now

You could mount it on the belt as a keeper It could also be used on a medieval type as the loop before the belt knot

It doesn't really matter which way the slots run, as long as they all point the same way. Its a small mark to show that the maker was looking at the details. In the case of your pouch I would have the slots running in line with the stitching, or at right angles to it

Same for me. When the item gets to that stage where it can't be flattened I block it out with off-cuts of wood and scrap leather. Still goes into the clamps. Mine is a sort of clam. Two shaped up-rights attached to a plank, which I sits on on a chair or bench. It'll go anywhere easy*. - Today I plan to get two new springs for it; first improvements on it since I made it 20 years ago * a workmate thingy doesn't pack up or store as small as my clam

You'll have problems with the corners. I think the vertical ones will bulge out awkwardly. Better to have curved corners at all junctions

Looks grand

You'll be annoying folk bumping this every hour or so. We don't live on the forum. The machine specialists might visit only once a week or even less often

Pictures? more info please

yup, remember that and the book 'Eats Shoots and Leaves' all about such

I would call it 'Lattice Work'. Bikermutt has said it I was just reading a 'How do I......' on this just the other day. Some cut the lines first then stamp with a seeder, whilst some mark the lines, stamp with the seeder, then cut the lines between the stampings. Yes, looks like a resist first then antique applied

Very much beautiful Is it an illusion but is the end tapered narrower?

Feed the wood, with teak oil or boiled linseed oil. If this were mine; I'd drill out every damaged screw hole and use wood working PVA or Scotch glue to glue in dowels, which I'd drill to take brass screws Its an unusual design with the clam at an angle like that

Tandy Craftaid now also do stainless steel templates meant for pyrograves to follow. They are s/s with the patterns cut out. So far there are only 5 or 6 in the series. You could use one of these and follow the pattern with a ball point stylus or tip of a knife

If its regular acrylic paint you're using, put down a coat or two of matt white first [after the dyeing]

Either; dye or paint first, but oil last. If you dye first you'll have more vibrant paint colours, if you paint first you'll need to put a resist on the paint work but the dye might still tone down the colours a bit