fredk

those deserve a double *groan*

I'm declaring that my part in this experiment is at an end 2 years and nothing bad to report

sheeesh! deer in your front yard! I'm very jealous All I get are seagulls

Wonderful Work Welcome to the forum.

What type of leather are you using? I don't mean 'veg tan' but more specifically

I used to buy some of my motorcycling gear from military surplus stores. My gauntlets were WW2 British Dispatch Rider's* and my summer boots were WW2 German troopers boots. My rain cape, for use on motorcycle and post bike, was an ex-RAF WW2 guard's rain cape. I also used to wear boots called 'ammunition boots' as a postie. They covered the ankles and protected them from dog bites. They were tough and normally hard wearing but as a postie I walked a lot so wore out a pair in about 7 or 9 months There is one store left in Belfast. Still doing 'Army Surplus'. We have a very large number of marching bands and some of their uniforms are made up from Army Surplus uniforms * I think I may still have them somewhere

Checked what I paid; £8.90 with 2 sets of dies and 35 x 15mm snaps Its now running at £10.26 for the same

Its raised up to clear the sound-proofing? I'd try to replicate that mounting; go to a scrap yard and get some scrap door panels. Cut around the mounting, leaving a large piece of plastic, and screw that to the new door panel. Might get you some replacement clips too Just thinking as I write

Those clips should be available from the vehicle dealer. They probably sell them by the box full If your area is dry I'd use MDF. Stable & smooth surfaces, easy to cut and shape

You can paste photos directly* from your computer or phone. They need sized to no more than 800 x 600 pixels, ie about 150kb * this is actually preferred

I recently bought one of those off Temu for £12, for tool, 2 sets of dies and some snaps. Not used it yet. I have one for use with KAM snaps and it works fine so I reckon the new one will as well

When I'm soldering anything very close to plastic or leather I wrap a piece of wet cloth around the item, just slightly past the area to be soldered. That keeps the rest from getting too hot

you could solder/braze or whatever to join it and make it more secure

Even I could make it. Anneal some brass rod, bend either free-hand or round a former then heat & squench

afaik its the same in the UK and Ireland

Smaller stitching holes, these keep the thread tighter. Pull each stitch real tight Have you tried the pierced-thread way of putting your needle on?

Yes. I have a large block of wax that I can push the whole die into, at the start and about every 4 or 5 cuts

Whatever you use as a show table use a cloth covering it. I/we found dark red or brown best with leatherwork. There are websites which tell you which colours are welcoming or 'cold' et cetera

The 'Speedy Stitcher' does a lock stitch and I've used it a few times. In places where I wasn't able to do a saddle stitch

Different nations; the true Brit will not start talking to you unless you start with the weather. At a show today I must have made about 50 new friends. All conversations started with small talk about the weather @ThisIsMyFirstRodeo I do not recommend you doing what we did at shows to get round the regs over food & drink. We were showing typical medieval foods and drinks. Some was for sale but we didn't say that. We let ppl try 'our lunch/snack'. Then if they liked it they could pre-order and pre-pay for it. Delivery was later. Like 20 -30 mins later I sold my medieval style mead by selling the fancy bottle and including the mead in it for free. An inspector tried to say that wasn't legal but he checked and came back to me and said as long as the ppl could buy the empty bottle and got the mead free there was nothing he could do about it

My bestest guess is, the bullet holders were sewn in place then soaked in water and the bullets forced in, basically wet-moulding the holder

Good job Invert the top plate every 6 presses or so. You'll find the press dishes the plate and inverting it before it gets too bad sends it dishing in the opposite direction I buy steel and aluminium off cuts which are sold on ebay. I get them relatively cheaply

I would; use a coin or something, draw round it for the curve, in ink. Then cut using scissors or shears on the drawn line. I find cutting out-side curves easier with scissors

Its very hard to judge the right amount That is definitely too much. Too much can surely ruin a pair of boots To limit how much NFO I'm putting on I have a NFO/bees wax/carnauba wax mix that I apply all over. I let that sit a while then I buff the waxes to a semi-glossy shine. I've never had anything so dry that it needs more than one NFO/wax application. Perhaps in your case, another coating in a weeks time, then another after another week should see it getting enough feed