fredk

I had a similar but different experience many years ago. Had to cancel my credit card to ensure the van rental company could not get payment

I made a couple of mouse-mats. Strictly for use by meeces. afair, 2.5 -28 mm veg tan, stamped, dyed and sealed and then backed with 3 mm neoprene rubber They can't be used for putting coffee/tea cups on as they get marked

Well, I showed the hanger to the chap and he has asked for at lease 3 more, in red, black and brown leather, to see what sells. And at least 2 sword hangars

Try quality wicks for candle making. Not the pre-waxed type though

Like this one Under the lever is small nylon/plastic disc that sits on the top of the ram, to take the wear of the lever on the ram. This disc wears out. Tandy does not tell you about it nor do they supply replacements A few years ago I discovered this. The pressure pad on my press was badly worn, any more use of it and it would have been worn right through. I changed the pad again this morning. This is what the old one looks like; As I discovered years ago I could not buy replacements and inquires to Tandy resulted in nil response The pad is 25 mm / 1 inch diameter and only about 5 mm thick. I bought a bar of Delrin 25 mm diameter and 100 mm long, the shortest I could buy, and on a borrowed band-saw I cut a few discs. As you can see in the above photo a small section on the same side but on opposite edges needs cutting away for the locating lugs I have 6 discs, I've used 2 and there is plenty of the bar left. Should last a long time and keep my press in action for some time Total cost was £5.98 (about $7.50) for the Delrin bar If you use a Tandy Pro Hand Press check out the state of the pad. You only need remove one bolt to remove the lever

I'm currently working on game #2. There will be a few changes. I've used 'distressed blue' chrome tan leather as the board cover. I can't make up my mind if the play should go clockwise or anti-clockwise as on the first game. Oddly my natural tendency is for play to go anti-clockwise I start the stamping of the playing area this weekend - hopefully I've kept that on the instructions. And thanks for the compliment

A proper wick has a weave to it. It burns better if its the right way up. Try reversing the wick and keep it trimmed close so only a few mm are above the holder to burn. You actually do not want the wick burning but the alcohol vapours

A KAM snap would do the job To hide the female part of this regular snap you would need to cut around it, before installing it, on the strap, removing some leather, shortening the post on it then fitting it

Oops, I shudda said, its a 'viking' axe* hanger. For hanging a single or double handed light axe on a belt. The runes are 3/4 inch Rune stamps by Ivan. Tandy sometimes does an exactly same set. The vikings liked to give their weapons and shields fearsome names. This spells out 'BRAIN BASHER' Any others I might do will have different names The long Celtic lace pattern is a stamping plate. One of two I bought from a maker in Russia. Its clear acrylic. The Mjolnir is a Tandy 3D stamp and the small Celtic lace triangles is a brass stamp I had made. A 40 mm i/d welded steel D loop. Its about 22 cm long x 8 cm wide. 2 mm veg tan, folded over to make a belt loop and double the thickness for carrying the axe. All glued together with just a few rivets. I made it from a piece of 'scrap' I had available * you can leave off the e for US spelling

I made this the other day. Its just a try-out. A couple of mistakes on it to be corrected on the next, if the buyer wants more I had to put a re-enforcement piece on the back. This was tending to fold where the two folded-over parts met

Here in N.I. Barry's is fun-fair types place where people go to have exciting fun I guess you going into your Barry's was much the same

I found the missing #3 piece. It was among the weeds. Its string had broken. I'll get it larded up and a new string on it and get it out today

I have the stylus type version. It has different 'hair' effect on each end. I find it very convenient. Easily switching between the two ends

A couple of days later than I wanted but I've now re-oiled/ re-greased all the pieces, except #3 of set 2, and put them out We'll see what our 'summer' can throw at them

I'll revise my earlier statement; With a fresh battery heat-up was instant and the tip went red hot. Perhaps its hot enuff to melt solder. The unit comes with a protective cover which covers the tip and the switch as well and prevents it being accidentally pressed

I just checked the battery I used to check that the zapper is working; its only about 75%, not full strength. That will make a difference to the time to heat and the heat

I just bought one. The tip takes about 5 second to heat up but it really never gets as hot as a soldering iron, just hot enuff to melt the thread. Its light-weight and handy. I intend to try it on my model aeroplanes as well, for trimming the rigging

Try Cutler. He finished off knives from the black smith.ready for sale and it seemed it included the sheaths

@bruce johnson Thanks for the above

Try Le Prevo in Newcastle

We are now entering the 9th month of testing. 8 months done. Set #1, the car set 1. Baby Oil; Both sides are very dark, More flexible than Control 1 (C1), Slight smell of leather, No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking Oil (rape seed); Both sides very dark, Slightly more flexible than C1, Slight cooking oil smell and of leather, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard (pork fats); Light but darker than C2, Flex is about the same as C1, Smell of leather, No sign of rot or fungus 4. NFO Compound; Both sides very dark, Flex is better than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 5. Olive Oil ( Pure Extra Virgin); Both sides very dark, Flex is only slightly better than C1, Slight smell of cooking oil, No sign of rot or fungus 6. 3 in 1 oil (benzine); Both sides very dark, but back less so, Flex is stiffer than C1, Slight noticeable smell of 3in1 oil, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Very slightly darkened both sides, Flex is only slightly better than C1, Very slight smell of leather, No sign of rot or fungus Set #2 were hung outside on a wood frame. They got light and heavy rain with periods of sunshine, warm overcast and wind, both light breezes and strong winds The same oils were used in the same sequence . Control C1A was hung with the other pieces 1. Baby oil; Both sides are very dark, Flex is better than C1A, Slight smell of leather No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking oil; Both sides very dark, Flex is very slightly better than C1A, Slight smell of leather, Grain surface feel oiled, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard; Is Missing! Its gone! Its disappeared, its AWOL ! The piece and its hanging string 4. NFO Compound; Both sides are medium dark, Flex is better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 5. Olive oil; Both sides and fairly dark, Flex is better than C1A, Smells of oil, Grain surface feels oiled, No sign of rot or fungus 6. 3 in 1 oil; Both sides are a medium dark brown, Flex is better than C1A, Slight smell of oil, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Both sides very slightly darkened, Flex is only very slightly better than C1A, Slight smell of leather, No sign of rot or fungus This week end I'll re-oil all the pieces and put them out again.

That colour you have done the samples in looks very fine and acceptable Are Boss bobbins the same size as Cowboy bobbins would you know?

What I would do is; line up the two ends, align the sewing holes and stick something like straightened wire paper clips in the sewing holes - they look like they can take them - then work back to the other end, lining up the holes and putting in paper clips every couple of inches. When thats done I'd go back to the first end, remove the paper clips and glue about 3 inches and put the paper clips back in. When that glue is really dry and sticking those 3 inches real well I'd do about 6 inches more, always putting the paper clips back in, repeat until all the belt is glued up. Then start the stitching

If its not damaged or the stitching holes ripped, yes, you can re-use it. Then it will keep its originality