fredk

No problem with symmetry when using these; If you punch one side of the sheath first with them, then glue up and use them again the sewing holes will match in direction. This will go thru about 4mm of leather, and even if they don't they leave a hole deep enuff on both sides for an awl to finish off

I had the opposite problem; snaps too hard to open. With suggestions on here I solved the problem; by inserting a bar of the correct diameter into the snap socket and whacking it, opening it up slightly. The setter tool was bending the base plate into a 'dish' shape, making the socket too tight. By reverse logic; if you were to hit the snap socket with a setter tool so the base plate was to 'dish' a wee bit it might tighten up the snaps

I would suggest the Tippmann Boss is not the machine for you with your arthritis. Being a totally manual machine I think it will aggravate you arthritis

I would suggest that leather temper is too soft. Try hardening some up and see if that solves the problem

As far as I can see; nothing really special about the material. Any hardwood, brass, plastic or nylon type material would do. Anything that can be filed real smooth. The pre-made ones are really for folk who have no d.i.y ability and those who like to buy nicely made gadgets

+ 1 more

I'll start with plain smooth I think. I have plenty of cheap bevellers spare

I think I have 3 Singers, 1 Singer clone, and 2 others - I think *must get more*

There's another type of beveller I shall have to acquire. Might see about rounding some square ones

Did youse happen to notice the reporters name? Claire Sadler !

Three teddy-bears got fed up with just sitting on the toy shelf in the nursery They decided to go out and find some useful work They went everywhere looking for work but found they were unskilled and untrained and no-one would employ them Almost on the point of giving up they tried their luck at a builders The boss told them 'I'm short handed with men off sick but I've got to get this job done. You can dig the hole for the foundations. I reckon you can do that' The teddy-bears worked hard digging that hole They worked all month Then on the last day of the month the teddy-bears arrived for work They went to the tool shed to get their tools but found not all the tools were there They told the boss 'Our shovels are there but all our pick-axes are gone!' The boss replied 'Did no-one tell you? Today is the day the teddy-bears have their picks nicked' boom boom I thank you. I'm here all week

When the OP said 'small' I assumed he meant these; https://tandyleather.eu/en-gb/collections/tools?filter.p.m.filter.category=Embossing+Wheels

Laces or trigger hooks

I would get some lengths of thinnish (3mm to 6mm x 300mm ) nylon plate. Glue three pieces of plate in a stack; bottom is base, 2nd plate as belt edge guide and 3rd is the distance from the belt edge. The 2nd piece would be the thickness of the belt. Run the wheel over the leather as you feed it through this 'jig'

Naa, it should only take a few minutes, 30 mins at most. Use warm water, with a tiny wee bit of dish-washing liquid soap in it. After soaking stretch it along its length in your hands, squeeze out excess water then lace it through the holes. As it dries it will stiffen up and shrink a wee bit tightening up You can do this whether the strap is dyed or not

You could try using a wet strap for the conchos. Pull it up tight wet. Then when it dries out it will be even tighter

I use the Axxx stamps as backgrounders and the Bxxx stamps as bevellers. B series bevellers are available with patterns on their faces You 'walk' them thru a background turning and overlapping the impressions on each hit. They give the background a fine 'hatched' appearance making the main design standout. Hatching, in the way a pencil artist draws

I copy the images and print them out A4 size, then I draw over the lines to thicken them and leave out elements that I don't want, using 'Tippex' (white-out?). When I'm happy with an art work I scan it in. I put it thru my photo editing programme to clean it up and re-size it for the stamp making. I save every stage of the cleaning up and re-sizing so I can go back to any stage

The edit is below the 3 dots, top right. You may still have time to edit

You may not want to know this; but I got a replacement groover off ebay for under £8 inc shipping. Also, I had a choice of the size hole in it. I decided on 1.8 mm

Pretty snazzy

After The Flood Noah was seeing all the animal off his ship saying 'Bye now, don't be strangers, visit me. Go forth and multiply' As all the animal wandered off in many directions there were two snakes left Noah said 'Go, go, go forth and multiply' The snakes said 'We can't' 'Why not?' asked Noah 'Cos we'er adders' boom, boom

If you are making lasts for boots you need to make the last come apart at the ankle otherwise it wont come out of the constructed boot (ask me how I know) A solid last is alright for shoes and boots that only go slightly above the ankle

Buy Blue guns, for fitting

Optivisor - I couldn't remember the name earlier This is the type I have. But my wee light is broken and I'll have to cobble up a new one