fredk

If using Angelus paints I'd suggest using their recommended sealer. The Angelus paint may have an adverse reaction to Resolene or any other sealer

A bargain! But I don't need one right now

and they are cheaper. They work great on leather. They're the only paints I use Sometimes I spray a coat or three of resolene because I've found that brushing or sponging it on will lift the carefully made dyeing

to this I'd add; put a description of what is on the front cover

Years ago it was common to get special folders for magazines. I think you can only order them thru office stationary suppliers. Its a heavy weight card folder, like an A4 folder without the spring loops, with wires running top-to-bottom at the spine edge. They usually took 12 issues. You put the wire in the center of the magazine and spring it back into the holder. Then you could put the magazines on your book shelf

Not absolutely necessary but it helps Don't use anything very aggressive. The a/b has tiny rubber seals inside it which can be destroyed by strong cleaner*. As you will be using acrylics an alcohol can be used to clean it out. A rinse will do, with a complete strip down only occasionally. On a strip down; do it on a tray with a big magnet handy on the tray. Let the small steel parts go to the magnet, that lessens the chance of loosing them * there are special dedicated a/b cleaners available

Not exactly the same but similar on Aliexpress, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32704647915.html

We have now done 16 months of testing. (October '23 to end of January '25) All the pieces are much the same as on June 6th 2024, with only some slight changes on a few pieces Set #1, the Car set 1. Baby Oil; Both sides are dark, slightly lighter on the reverse side, More flexible than Control 1 (C1), No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 2. Cooking Oil (rape seed); Both sides very dark, Slightly more flexible than C1, Stronger cooking oil smell, No sign of rot or fungus 3. Lard (pork fats); Light but darker than C2, Flex is about the same as C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 4. NFO Compound; Both sides very dark, Flex is better than C1, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus 5. Olive Oil ( Pure Extra Virgin); Both sides very dark, Flex is only slightly better than C1, Smell of cooking oil is stronger, No sign of rot or fungus 6. '3 in 1' oil (benzine); Both sides very dark, slightly lighter on reverse side, Flex is much stiffer than C1, Slight noticeable smell of '3 in 1' oil, No sign of rot or fungus 7. Vaseline; Colour is almost back to the same as C1, Flex is stiffer, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus Set #2 were hung outside on a wood frame. They got light and heavy rain with periods of sunshine, warm overcast and wind, both light breezes and strong winds The same oils were used in the same sequence . Control C1A was hung with the other pieces All have been lost except; 4. NFO Compound; Both sides are medium dark, Flex is better than C1A, No smell, No sign of rot or fungus In conclusion; So far there has been no rot, no fungus and most importantly NONE of the oils or fats, especially the cooking oils/fats, have gone rancid When I have time, maybe next week, I'll start a new batch for hanging outside

Wood stain works well if you take into consideration; use only oil dye, your leather needs prepared correctly for the dye to spread evenly. the wood dye removes natural oils from the leather so it will need a feeding of NFO afterwards

A suction feed a/b needs a compressor with a lot of free-air delivery and a higher pressure

Grey/gray dye is available. I bought grey dye from a seller in England, but thats not a lot of use to you

For a matt/flat finish; Dilute your Resolene 1:1 with water and add in some talcum powder. No more that 10%. The talc acts like a matting agent. Be careful the talc doesn't clump up. If you can use one of those battery powered whisks. You can buy jars of matting agent, eg by Tamiya, it costs about $3.50 for a jar which will last ages. But the talc will work just as well. Then put on several coats of this mix. After each coat is dry buff it and see whats its like

A BBC report that the Museum might move https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c4gxyye2080o I didn't know it existed

Both, or either. I also add some acrylic varnish* in. Speeds up the drying, add to the shine and helps the Resolene seal * goes by various names, eg 'Mop and Glo' by Pledge or 'Wood Floor Polish' by Astonish

And how do you keep it soft or liquid enuf to come out the wee spout? Just asking for a friend,

One can never have enuf. One each of different styles for the different cuts Loverly craftsmanship on the birds head knife

Those are nice Certainly very bright

I've not tried it for 'antiquing' but I keep several bottles of thinned tinted resolene After putting resolene on some items I noticed there was some dye colour carried over so I made up bottles of thinned resolene with some dye added. I have; red, green, blue, purple, tan, medium brown, as well as Fiebings own black resolene

That is unfortunate. Try using a good brass cleaner [I use stuff called 'Brasso'] first, clean that off with a clean cloth then coat it with clear nail lacquer. But make sure its the old style lacquer which smells, its mostly been replaced by an acrylic lacquer with no or little smell. That will do you for a while

The Rustins you mean? That link was for Amazon UK but it should be on your Amazon. Or ebay, or your general hardware store - its used a lot on the brass fittings on doors

Clear nail varnish will work, but its short-term. Its not as tough as the Rustins and will wear off after a short time

You can get a special clear lacquer coating to paint or dip copper or brass. Its a cellulose lacquer. I used to use a lot of it on the brass fittings on my medieval shields so it stands up to use well, but if you use a wire scrubber it will come off I can't remember the name right now. If I find out I'll edit this Edit; Its called 'Rustins Metal Lacquer' [ who would have guessed it? ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-Metal-Lacquer-Clear-RUSCML125/dp/B07DF7F2ZZ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2UE65O1XILPTJ&gQT=1 btw, a thot; you'll have diffs coating the attached rivets where they meet the leather. That part will still oxidize and stain the leather. Unless you are prepared to remove them, coat them and replace them or new ones

a. your photos have to be small to put them on here. About 600 x 600 [max] pixels, a couple of hundred kb b. we need to attract the attention of gordond and MariaMS by tagging them like this @gordond and @MariaMS ; come help

imho, get the cylinder arm. You can always attach a flat bed for when its needed, but you can't take the flat bed off that type and make it cylinder arm

They might be magnetic book/page markers [?] Like these;