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flerg777

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About flerg777

  • Rank
    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://wildspirit-oldsoul.blogspot.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Northern California
  • Interests
    Hunting & outdoors equipment, archery, Scottish highland games and culture, aboriginal design (Celtic, North American Indian, Central American, etc.)

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags, straps, slings, arm guards
  • Interested in learning about
    Saddlemaking, improving my carving, dyeing and finishing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    The Google

Recent Profile Visitors

967 profile views
  1. Let me know if that works! I'm like bikermutt07, I don't know, but I have an idea: I use a small 45 degree cut piece of wood for skiving the ends of pieces for box stitching. You set the piece on top of the leather, back just a bit, and bring your knife down against the wood, which forces it into a 45 degree cut. Regardless, good luck!
  2. Other than the black, I've had good experiences with Eco-Flo. It definitely requires a good finish (I use Super Sheen and Fiebings Aussie), and I hold the item a couple of days before I ship it off, but I've got a three year old bird bag dyed timber brown that has seen some pretty harsh use, and has no fading or loss of color. I cannot find a good black dye, by the way. I've heard it recommended that, indeed, you should try dipping the whole piece (but, I don't have the space/money for that kind of dye job).
  3. I thought about this a bit, and then it occurred to me to use a round chisel. I'd bought a box of chisels a few years ago from Harbor Freight for cheap. The round chisel made a purnt-near perfect corner with just slight pressure.
  4. On a tangent -- it would be neat t find out what the paper says!
  5. Because of this thread, I realized that I had an entire set of cheap chisel and lathe tools from Harbor Freight in my shed! One of them cuts an absolutely beautiful corner.
  6. If you have a hole punch about the diameter of the corner, you can just punch a hole in each corner, then connect the corners with straight cuts.
  7. I've got a nice 7-8 oz. W&C bridle leather. The grain side is wonderful -- waxy, and soft but still tough. The flesh side, however, is a bit dry and papery in parts. I know that, with time, it should work itself out a bit, but I wonder: would oiling it with neatsfoot or olive oil soften it up, too?
  8. Thank you both for the suggestions. I am considering 3-4 for the inside, and 7-8 for the outside, since that is what I have in stock, but I am concerned about the roll being a bit too stiff to start. I really appreciate your thoughtful responses.
  9. Another happy Buckle Guy customer here -- I just found them a couple of months ago when my local Tandy didn't carry solid brass trigger swivels in a size for 3/8" dog leashes. I've now even bought a W&C bridle leather side from them in 3-4 oz., and it looks great (as do all the hardware pieces).
  10. Wow, what great artistry! I love designs that are so big they challenge the borders.
  11. Great looking collars! I cheat -- I use deerskin to pad my rifle slings, and edge with Edge Flex, since I can't burnish them together.
  12. I have a customer who wants a custom knife roll, and I'm trying to find an American-made leather for it. Would 3-4 oz. W&C English Bridle be alright? I'm not sure if it's too thin, and I'm having trouble pulling the trigger on a hide, but I know that it's good leather, in general. I use 7-8 oz. for leashes and slings, but I don't have a splitter, and skiving such a size at my skill would look u.g.l.y.
  13. Does anybody else line or pad with deerskin? I've been padding rifle slings with it. I'm wondering if anybody has any problems with it, in particular.
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