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I have had 3 singer 111s in the last 55 years. The last one a $10 at a auction with a broken belt.No wear on head, had that 50s crinkle paint on the head and black lacquer on the bed. It would sew 7 layers of 3/4oz Over 1/2" lift. If you are looking hears what you need . No stitch adjust on the head by the flywheel. Only on the bed. make sure hook is sharp. Generally a sloppy 111w155 will sew just fine.

I've owned a Model C, a Fipi 20 and a Schwabe. Can you sent more pictures. I may be able to help. My model C sat out in the Fl. weather for 3 years paid 80 bucks delivered. Need to keep it oiled.

I have a 45k76 aka as a sack darner. I do one stitch at a time. The pressure foot is adjustable for lift. Needle down foot down. Needle up foot up. Allows 2 hand operation. Also came with table. These machines are cheap and can be very useful for holsters and knife sheaths. With needle position works very well. Paid $50 had to soak it for 6months I can post pictures, but in a hurry these posts go to sewing machine heaven quickly.

I have a tool box full of used 111 parts. Many sprockets, obviously a wear item. A employee who had a very worn 111-153 I replaced belt and had to built a tensioner to take up slack. You may need new sprockets.

The machine is a 280L AKA as a precursor to some JUKI machines. Horizontal axis. M bobbin, semi lube, no clutch, compound feed. Very good quality.

Mobile for twenty five years. Machines went into a box. Tables stored upside-down. Patcher 30-1 went into box, used as table top with reduction drive. I've viewed a loaded machine go thru a floor of trailer.

If our viewers don't know there is a slight difference in DOT style snaps and line 24 import snaps. The dome on DOT or Fastnap are more rounded than import line 24. The setter domer will work on either but can create appearance problems. For example using DOT domer on import snaps will round out the top causing marking from the inner core of the snap. I also believe you need the correct or compatible setter. I personally don't care which one uses, but DOT or Fastnap are better. Also coated snaps in painted colors will set slightly harder.

I use KLEAN STRIP painters solvent. Home Depot, Ace Hardware. If you can still pour it even very thick it will dissolve. I don't see any loss of adhesion. About $10 a quart.

Being a amateur shoemaker I had access to a last. Had foot surgery, slow healing I'm 80. Modify last. Soak shoe in water overnight, wipe off excess water. Wrap last in plastic wrap, apply talc, install into last, may take a few hit's with mallet. Let sit for week. The darker boot was elk I veg tanned. The other Horween horse. You can also do this with the right shoe tree

Was just watching a new Trenton and Heath video today on YouTube. They cleaned sole with acetone and then scuffed up surface.

Had one since 1976, all the way up to 206rb5. No issues on any. However had 2 instances on 206rb5 where dealers asked me to try repair. The problem was thread jamming. The clearances on the hook where to tight. I recommend any Seiko japanese version. Look for minimum wear on paint on footbed. the maximum lifting height may need to be adjusted for leather.

First of all I've owned a 206rb since 1975 maybe owned at least 10. The 206rb-5 is Chinese and ok but does not meet the quality of the Japanese versions. I had a 206rb 5 in my leather shop and it was reliable. I am willing to look and service this machine. I'm retired and located in rural Colorado. I do this for only a donation which I give to the local senior center. I will setup in one of my tables and adjust machine. I think you need to properly pre-tension in order to keep the thread properly seated in the tension disk. Your machine may need the maximum height may need to be adjusted. The alternating pressure feet may not be equal or the alternating feet are not set for maximum lifting. The feed dog may need adjustment. It may need to be timed, and the set for proper hook to needle distance. You would have to pay shipping both ways. tx Lynn

I have limited need to hand stitch, however I'm a amateur shoemaker and I inseam my insoles and and saddle stitch my outsoles. I have noticed many Euro and Oriental leather workers use a grooved awl. If you google rasche awls you will find a awl that handstitchers might like. You insert the awl, leave in position while passing both thread thru the groove.

You have been provided great info. There is more than one type of snap. DOT and Fastsnaps have a more domed head than chinese line 24 snaps. They will work on either style tool but may disrupt the top of the domed head.

Cheap ideas. Shim ladder gears, 1mm brass shim stock cheap at NAPA. Adjust the needle distance to hook,seen just above the foot. The eccentric can be adjusted by moving the revolving carrier on shaft at top of machine. There is a Y Tube video on this.Trim a needle and adjust up and down see if this works. Keep looking. I have owned a bunch of 29s from a $25 29-4 to a $800 29k71 got them all to work. Review" ken's life" on needlebar.org. great video on 29k13.

For awning, boatwork, auto trim and upholstery, you can;t beat a 20" Consew 206or equivalent. You will like the space.

A sewing machine usually has more than one tensioner, the first is called a pretensioner. The purpose to create enough tension to keep main tensioner thread uniformally seated. On front mounted machine with a dial or a lever without reverse you can simply go to zero stitch length and make 4 or 5 stitches to lock stitich. This is the way embroidery machine does jump stitches and they also drag the top thread to the bottom. I use this method for leatherwork because appearance is important. My 44 and 31 old black Singer have a stitch length lever but no reverse, so you simply go to zero and make a few stitches. You can usually pull top thread through to the bottom and trim. On my 280l has a dial and reverse, for stitch quality I go to zero and lock the stitch This won't work on 111 and clone machines. Also Singer and Adler shoe patchers. It will work on CLSP.

The 29k51 has a hole in front of the base just at the top of the stencil. Inside is a eccentric at the junction of the horizontal and vertical arm. You may be able to adjust the hook with this eccentric. If this doesn't work check y tube videos.

Very good explanation from Mablung. The chemistry should allow for heat treating to a high hardness. The tempering process will dictate the final hardness. Producers play that game of hardness over 60rc vs.toughness 55-60rc. Go through the sharpening process as described by Mablung than use the green stuff for touch-up. The only way to check hardness is using RockwellC tester. I think some of the boutique steels are nothing but a hustle. What they sometimes do is use a bunch of letters and numbers to confuse the customer. Plain old cheap 1095 high carbon steel heat treated properly will make a great knife, albeit poor corrosion resistance.

My choice 241. huge selection of chinese and japanese parts. How about a 1/2" welt foot for windlass on a vintage car. Or a 1/8" piping foot for seat welting. Most machines are non sewing factory having less hours. Horizontal axis hook less tendency to thread jam. ADLER Has drive belt $50 plus labor $50 to $100 per hour to install. Takes about a hour unless upper bushing is stuck $$$$. Some machines so worn sprockets need to be replaced $$$

I'm near 80 and having trouble de-hairing with knife any suggestions? Also do you have a good source for tanning bark, especially that tans in light tan color.

On 206 rb5 I have tried valve grinding compound. I have tried moving hook closer to needle and moving needle up and down helps some. I bought a new 206 rb5 20 years ago no problem. Next try Dremel buffing wheels worked great on clearing and buffing CLSP (chinese shoe patcher) hook, shuttle carrier. and shuttle. These parts are heat treated but not buffed. Adjusting the needle positioner might be also needed

My 206rb is well worn and will sew 207. I've had two dealers in the past have asked me to repair new 206rb5 because of thread jams. Tight clearances. I have never replaced a hook on 206rb's for almost 50 years. Used may be good. My as new 280l will sew 138 never tried 207 on that machine.

I wold buy a used consew 206 or Sieko or variant used in good working condition. I would also buy a chinese shoe patcher from Bantam Saddle and Tack. This machine has a higher lift and longer stitch than Singer or Adler. Used because the clearances are bigger allowing larger thread. The CLSP has a larger bobbin than most Singers. Do not buy a European machine parts are high and feet are propriety. You should be in business for less than $1000. I would not buy a machine with a belt drive, it can be expensive to replace. Belt drive can be a little stiff to turn. You may score a machine with a clutch motor cheaper and in rare occasions have very good control. Singer variants 144 w We called ours T Rex our go to machine for heavy thickness. Your final step would be a freearm 45K clones Many choices not many used.

I use bellies for shoe sole construction. I case a belly for insoles. While tacking the insole on the last I hammer the areas that conform to the foot. The midsole uses a tougher stronger leather that will not stretch because the edge will be used as a welt. The insole and midsole using a inseam stitch. A ancient method. I sometimes use belly for outsoles, wear is not important as I put on sole savers. Near 80 my eyes and hand work good, but my feet not so good.