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I like this machine it will sew 138 thread with a 135/16 /23 needle. The foot can be moved. it has needle timing and hook timing. That's the good stuff The bad rough finish on hook and shuttle needs polishing. Lot of these machines need work, however with couple of hours it will sew. Go to facebook chinese shoe patcher and read the files and post.

I have a 45k. The second picture shows thread behind tension disc should be between. Other issues needle timing and needle to far from the hook. If you can't fix let me know and I will check rising needle timing to hook. If you have needle to far from hook you can bend needle bar where needle is inserted. Not recommended but hey I only paid 50 bucks for the machine.

If you go to needlebar.org and then search for ken's life or ken jerrem's you will find a excellent article on shimming various parts on a 29-4. You can buy 1mm shim stock buy the inch from NAPA

I purchased 3 clickers in the 90's A USMC model C a mechanical clicker running on 220 single phase. A Fipi 20 running 220v 3 phase using a phase converter. Best feature reads die height automatically, also has dial for pressure. Did conversion and found difficult because euro wiring colors and application are problematic. Today the internet would help a lot. Third was a Schwabe model D a dead simple machine with manual height adjustment, also 3 phase which I found easy to wire to phase converter. This machine was USA made. These were well used but all three required less than $300 dollars in parts. The USMC is mechanical and requires good mechanical skills and a operator manual. All machines are industrial and have a very long life. The hydraulic machines are noisy, theModel C is quiet except when tripped. When I sold business I kept the USMC Model C The Fipi and the Schwabe are still in use in my old business.

there is needlbar.org (kens life)site about 29-4. Very good info. I also am working on a 29-4. Bent handwheel (fixed) bell crank work in progress. Clearances seem tight, screws are not chewed up, don't think I will to shim rack. Hook has little wear and picks up thread. However it looks terrible on the outside but good on the inside. There is also a facebook forum site 29k and others. 1mm shim stock was 63cents per inch. from NAPA. Trying for 5spi.

I have straitened needle bars and shafts on 29-4 and 45k. Singer steel is very ductile but strong. Similar to 1045 steel which was used in making wheels. My favorite hammer is a flooring hammer used to hit a nailer. For a surface I would use lead, a poundo board, or even a cheap cutting board. I use my 2" pad on my clicker.

The original clicker pad on my model C mechanical clicker was end-grain hardwood. Although it is serviceable I use 2x20x40 red poly pad. I think a hardwood stump would work ok. You could keep up the surface with belt sander.

Just for your info. These line-shaft clutches usually have a simple 3/8" leather belt as a clutch material. just a spot of glue holds them. We all are thinking about that 75lb. 3450rpm or 1725rpm pc. of garbage about 2 out of 10 have any control. However my wife loves her 206rb with that style clutch but she started working in the garment factory over 50 years ago.

I would really like to play with this setup. I would keep the clutch add a smaller pulley to motor, and add a hinge to the back of the motor. You may be able to use one belt to change speeds on the clutch which has 3 different diameters. I would add a smaller pulley to motor The top looks like plywood refinish with veneer or thin plywood. The machine looks pretty good. I would spray all moving parts with PB Blaster or similar. Do this multiple times and do not blow out with air ( just sends dirt into moving parts, some with little clearance) Now is the time to test for sewing. If it sews good leave it alone. If not y-tube is your friend, like Uwe Grosse, Wiz, and Cowboy Bob. Of course use this site also. Do not change the toothbelt just yet. Run the machine and see how easy and smooth it turns. An new belt may be a little stiff and may not show other issues. Adding a larger pulley at the handwheel will give you even more control and you can reduce tension on the drive belt. Finally this machine has high lift (1/2") and long stitch. If all goes well and you like it you may want to convert to a larger bobbin. Good Luck

Four things I would look at. Take up spring. Should release before take-up descends to bottom. Timing Adjust needle down a touch 1/32" , if it gets worse go up. Timing I assume lower shaft is keyed, I would see if hook is to far from the needle Thread release. Make sure thread is not releasing as feet go to second layer

ameriken online probably has your punches.

In my beginning years as a upholster we used cotton thread the size was 16-4 (about tex 105) and 24-3(about size 69) things were rapidly changing to nylon thread, staple guns vs spitting tacks. Most machines where 155 and 16-188.

My go to for small parts and tools is "THE WORKS" a common and in-expensive bathroom cleaner. It's disposable obviously. For larger projects and perhaps more gentle is electrolysis, many post on this on YouTube and other places. Probably very friendly environmentally as the water and the other chemicals are simple like salts or Borax.

Been there done that on a very nice 111w155 which I bought for $12 at the Mt Hope auction had bad belt. I would try one thing first. Change to 20 or 21 needle. Move hook as close as you can to needle. Make sure needle bar timing to hook is correct. If this fails go to Uwe Grosse he will come up on Google. Review his Consew/111w155 video. 50yrs ago I had to put a 111 on the bus 300miles. After that I made sure I learned how to adjust the machine. These machines properly setup will have 1/2" lift a long stitch and will do whatever you want, until you graduate to a big bobbin with reverse. Better pictures of machine might help so I might be able to see overall condition.

Well look at that ! This is not full grain "whatever that is" one A plated finished split with a plastic or acrylic coating two Top grain plated and finished. three The above cut on the belly, the wrinkles will always show up. four Final assembly may have ironed the boot and lifted the finish. five If expensive the price was based on marketing not quality.

I have one, quality Japanese machine. 3.5 stitch to inch. As good as Japanese Consew 206. Simple horizontal axis. big bobbin machine with pinon drive. But no clutch and if you get a thread jam you can spin the hook out of time. You will need to know how to retime. Hooks are cheap. You can sew with 207 thread top and bottom. Florida climate is bad for sewing machines as far as appearance, but doesn't affect performance. Machine I don't think has been made for years.

I did notice on the second video that as the stitching came off the double seam the stitch got shorter. This happens using a drop feed or walking foot machine. A compound feed machine usually won't do that. Many of those machines also have adjustment to alter the lifting height. For example we sew embroidery twill to backing and need triple feed to keep materials aligned. By simply adjusting the lift we can sew heavy leather. If you buy singer 111 or Oriental feet you will have a huge selection. If you buy Adler or Pfaff feet for those machine the prices are much higher, I am only speaking for the USA. You can buy knurled,smooth and teeth feet for the 111 style. I don't know your market but if you see something just ask for a opinion from our members.

I would buy a singer 45k or GA5-1 free arm clone. Huge bobbin, user friendly, simple oscillater, can take 69 thread through 415. Needles available 18-25 including leather point. I would glue a 2mm pc. of teflon to the foot, this will reduce surface tension as the the leather slides under the foot, can also reduce need for the tension on the foot. Flat plates were available on some 45k's. I have modified my 45k to sew out soles on the shoes I make or repair (hobby). A shoe patcher would also help. I sew uppers with a shoe patch and also put on teflon on it. good luck

Hello I know w155 and also embroidery machines. You have to be really good at tension adjustment. Lock stitch machine as a rule have bobbin tension at 25 % of top tension. That general rule would apply to your machine as long as the top and bottom thread size are the same. You need to do a coupla things. One needs to know how thread release works with top tension When the hand or. foot release is working it will drop tension in order to pull the material away after stitching. This is adjustable you need to understand how it works. While sewing the top tension needs to be consistent at all thickness. My 144w305 has no tension release. This machine has very consistent tension. May be they had a reason to do that? Now bottom tension. The hook has a small thin tension tab, it wears and gets dirty. Inspect and check carefully. Finally the big issue on old dirty vertical axis machines. Dust, dirt; oil get under the hook obstructing the thread path. Remove the gib on top of the hook, pull the hook and clean and polish. Don't lose those screws, I have a old tool box full of broken hooks and gib screws with 3 different pitches and are not interchangeable. good luck The experts will arrive shortly.

For years I used thermo ply to make large patterns like vest and chaps. For smaller stuff I used Plexiglas or made my own dies. A scroll saw is very handy

This is my 45k before restoration, A $50 purchase. After electrolysis, BP Blaster, acetone mixed with auto trans. fluid I did get it working. I polished all parts of hook area and now works well with 277. My needle was too far from the hook and I bent the needle bar closer. I bent in the area of the needle attachment. My other choice was the shuttle carrier which I could have punched or drilled out moved and threaded. My experience with singer parts is the metal is more tough (ductile) than hard and brittle I speaking of steel not iron casting. I took a chance and it worked. I use dd2x point needle more of a rounded chisel point which cuts well and makes for a nice look on the bobbin side.

I don't know. There was a period about 10 minutes when my you tube and leatherworker went crazy. Then it cleared up.

Being a upholsterer, leatherworker, and cordwainer I recommend the 1541s or the consew206rb4, both are horizontal axis compound feed machines with safety clutches and have large M bobbins. The juki shows as belt drive if used be sure it's not a factory machine they run those things to death. Being made in Japan a plus. The Consew has a pinion gear drive and I have never had to adjust, just add grease. I don't know the country of mfg. of the 206rb4. The main problem with used machines are bad adjustments on feed dog, inner and outer foot balance on feet. When you got that seatcushion under your foot and run out of bobbin, just reach under replace without moving the cushion. On vertical axis machines you have to get to top loading bobbin and than have to hold thread to prevent the terrible thread jam. Remember if it's use'd there is a reason. Good dealers are an exception. Good Luck

Back in the 80's I went to a pioneer -craft show. There was a lady with a white rabbit in here lap, she was pulling the fur to make spinning yarn. When I went on the bike circuit selling my leather products, patches and doing sewing I always put my machines up front. If I was doing a zipper on a jacket or a boot that would really draw a crowd. If they were waiting, their partner would than look around and maybe buy something like a deerskin purse. Now I admit that only 20% of the crowd where potential customers for handmade USA products. You need good shows with honest promoters. That;s the hard part. I believe the good stuff will stand out. Put a shoe patcher out front learn to treadle you will get attention.

Time to comment. I've had a 206 since 1976. Here's my experience with bobbins. The spring you talk about tends to provide some side load. If you have a needle break it can hit the case and bend it'. I've no back lash problems, I do upholstery and leather, speed is not my friend. For high speed on my commercial embroidery machines I use magnetic bobbins exclusively. Watch how tight you wind your bobbin, This can warp the sides. It will still insert but will turn uneven. Bobbin cases can warp. There cheap now, not 45 years ago. Pay attention to your bobbin, blow out lint especially the tension spring. Make sure your 206 is timed correctly and the bobbin case is not touching the hook. If it is you may not hear it and that needle can simply tap away doing doing damage. FIL-TEC magnetic bobbins are available on-line.