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It seems like everybody clicks toward the middle therefore you get a slight valley. Naturally after time you get uneven cutting and possible die bending. Now I'm speaking of red die boards, and also wood boards. I go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap planner, about forty bucks. Use a low setting and plane from outside edge toward the middle. As you get toward the center the cutting action will lessen. Continue planning all around the edge until it will cut across clean and smooth. These planners usually run flat but adjusting the blades can be done

This is a good straight stitcher with reverse, includes roller foot for leather. Regular high shank industrial machine $250 Located near Daytona Beach.

These machines were used for a special leather product (vintage BMW) tank bags. Set up with teflon feet, split needle bar on 112w140. Also has special speed reduction pulley that can be quickly converted to high speed. The table also has plate you add to front of cuttout so you can use regular 111w style machine (included) Machines are near Daytona Beach but could be moved to southern Colorado in may (yearly) trip. total $650

It's been a fifty year adventure starting with upholstery and auto trim, followed by leather garments in the motorcycle industry. Today I'm veg tanning deer and elk for use in boots, shoes, wallets and purses. All but the current hobby were for profit businesses. I've had to adjust to have any success While looking for past info and pricing I have some evidence of an alarming pattern. Namely the continued effort too utilize subepidermal (split) leather) into top grain product. This has happened with me, getting corrected product not as advertised. The term full grain was not in my info 25 years again. Top grain was. We should question any supplier that does not divulge all info.

I believe your loose thread issue on corners or turning is caused by releasing tension by hand or by knee lift. This causes the first stitch or so to not tension up properly. Pull on the thread before the tension assembly, than stitch. I always make sure the take-up lever is at top or slightly descending before restarting. If this works than adjust tension assembly so the release is in the upper portion of the lift. Some machines don't have tension releases, my Singer 144w305 for example. Perhaps the experts could chim in, this issue has come up before and should be addressed.

I have a Singer 144w305 w/reverse Used these machines in my leather shop we called it T-Rex When 7 layers of 4oz said no on my 206s we went to good old T -Rex. Looking for CB3200 money.

lI have no financial interest in this thread just trying to help. my go to machine in Fl. is a $2.00 auction bought 111w155 my thread is a $6.00 spool of bag sewing thread. you should learn to handstitch by doing those tool pouches, with a awl and some John Roberts needles your good to go. use two different colors of thread to prove it's done by hand. machines keep the top thread and bobbin thread on the bottom. I sew my uppers by machine (LIGHT LEATHER CAN BE DONE WITH OLD BLACK SINGER AND TEFLON OR ROLLER FOOT). my soles are done by hand in front of the computer (netflix) at night. I sew my insole to midsole and my midsole to outsole. all leather!!!!!!!! if you want a 3/8" plus leather sewing machine follow the advice of the forum members. the leather for the boots was home tanned veg elk I did myself. keep in touch tx Lynn

my bootmaking is part of a 50 year adventure in sewing, fabric and leather fabrication. as I age my best attributes are my eyes, hands, and experience. standing all day is hard. youtube and facebook will be your University . start by watching videos till you learn the learn the basics. then scour junk shops for footwear that fit your size and style, pay special attention to "how to measure". while junking look for tools, tools, tools. now take your favorite boot apart to learn construction, then start looking for a last. you can probably do the whole deal to get started for less than $200. I just made a pair of penny loafers with a $8 leather package including veg. and chrome from Hobby lobby on sale.

first of all I'm not interested in being a die maker. although capable of making a suitable die for a small run let's say a thousand cut's it's not like the pro dies offered by our advertisers. these old USMC model C mechanical clickers are ideal for soles, wallets, holsters. what I can do is give you a quote for your cutting, along with making the die, my dies are steel rule 2/4 point and ideal for my cutting equip. they may not work well on hydraulic equip.

I do have a USMC clicker which I use for my own projects. Also have all the bend-all equipment to do dies. Also have wallets dies (one design only) Do you have specific design ? Need more info. tx Lynn

Hello The owner of my old leather business bought one for $50. Since I fix all the sewing machines of friends, even acquaintances, she asked me to fix it. Many things wrong not many bad. Been10 years on the road and at the shop repairing leather items. This was a Consew short arm and the quality was good. (my opinion) Always buy new, I usually don't take this advice. tx Lynn

I do have a clicker, die making equipment and various industrial machines. I also have access to the Amish and Mennonites who can this type of work. If you can provide patterns, construction detail and order size I can give you a quote. Would also need description of leather. Most of my orders from my wholesale accounts are less than $1,000.00 tx Lynn

Thanks for advice. My concerns are two. I am installing solar. I currently run 3 commercial embroidery machines on the power grid. These machine are run with Newpoint battery backup surge protectors. Will that give me any protection, my solar installation is being installed by professionals, what d. I tell them. Secondly my customer is Amish, and the community is rapidly going solar. i worry that some my buy electronic machine (most are using mechanical) but do want more features rather than just straight stitcher. tx Lynn

I'm a avid forum watcher, most advice given is really good. I have a problem. I serve as free sewing machine repairman in a high mountain valley in Colorado. Last summer I installed a motor and flywheel on a Bernina. This was originally converted to a treadle. This family had moved to the valley built a house and installed solar. I converted it back to electric. After a few months she called and said the motor burned up. Any suggestions? Bernina motors are very expensive. Is it possible the solar voltage could vary enough to cause a problem. tx Lynn

All good advice. Check upper tension discs for grooves. I use 600 grit sand paper with a little oil on a piece of glass. Sand till smooth. Also hold bobbin case tension with right fingernail lift slightly and blow clean.

Ok I'm on tonight. Suggestions for bottom feed with zig zag the Zoje 20u93. Gives 9mm width zig zag, also has that neat ability to move zigzag width with knee lift. Boot top stitchers could use this for creative designs. Big learning curve, would work for free motion quilters. Next the sailrite, thompson miniwalkjer, version with walking foot and zig zag. On shoes and boots I use a zig zag for sewing linings. My linings are top grain and I need no overlaps. This machine gives good even feeding characteristics. I use one in my embroidery business to sew twill to paper so the bottom doesn't chase the paper so hooped material stays flat. By the way I think Zoje is the current Singer 20u maker.

There is a black washer just behind the conical tension spring it goes over the post, than the spring and than the nut you turn to change tension. The center cross bar on the washer can be dimpled slightly outward. This means more travel for the tension release rod and keep proper thread tension on thick material. If your knee lift is properly adjusted you will get thread release at full travel. I dimple with small screw driver a hammer on a soft piece of wood. My favorite machine, although I have a Nacajima 280L that will lift higher, sew longer stitches. and use 277top and 207bobbin thread. tx Lynn

Hi Brian I've had over 25 206-rb, the Japanese,Chinese and Taiwanese. All worked well and never had to mess with hook other sliding for and aft to match correct distance to needle. I've fixed many for friends and associates, all because of hacking including dealers. Your on the right track with needle bar timing. On thick material the thread tension may start to release causing multiple problems. There is a fix for that, by dimpling the tension washer. These machines are metric and the hardware store probably has a screw that works. I know somebody who used one of these machine daily for 25yrs. and never oiled it. Still working today (it gets oiled know.) tx Lynn

Sorry I missed inquiry. The 111 is still for sale but I left it in Fl. when I came to Colo. for the summer. Won't go back till Oct. It's not museum but very good condition. Can't do picture till fall. tx Lynn

I'm glad this issue has finally come up. The explanation is good as usual Uwe. In some cases the center bar (pictured) can be dimpled. One spot on our mc chaps was 6/7 layers and I finally learned to adjust up the tension release. I should mention many extra hvy. duty machines don't even have a tension release ie. my Singer 144/305

The Singer 155 is excellent, my go to when need longer stitch or sewing height. Sitting on solid wood top with original Singer clutch motor. Has original wrinkle black top with smooth black bottom. Top finish very good, bottom shows some wear.. Recent belt replacement. No skips no misses. May be able to deliver on a line between New Smyrna Beach Fl. and Westcliffe Co. end of Feb. $575 The Singer 144-305 is in Westcliffe Co. only one I've ever seen with reverse. Original gray/tan This high lift long stitch machine will even sew plywood. Huge bobbin. Sew 277 top and bottom and with ease. Uses 7/3 needles. Good parts availability. Set up with 50mm clutch pulley to 12" top. Will not sell without personal inspection. Boat feet are still available to do things like horse blankets. $2500 .

My history on Consew 206rb goes back to 1976 when I purchased a new one from Consolidated Sewing in Chicago. That machine is still daily in use in my former shop. I've had dozens of these machines including Japan, Taiwan, and Chinese models. I notice the 1206 has no button to reset the clutch ( maybe it has no clutch ! ). All 206 that I've had where equipped with clutches. The hook is set on a keyway and once the clutch is reset the hook timing is reset. You lock up a clutch less horizontal axis machine the hook spins on the shaft and you have to re-time. If you buy a clutch less machine make sure you mark the shaft and hook for position.

Ten years ago I sold my leather mfg. business, but kept the embroidery. You can reach me at info@make-a-patch.com I probably can handle your needs. Located Fla. and Colo. tx Lynn

I think this is great news. We need worldwide a outsole sticher that will sew heavy thread. Shoes and boots can be made in minimal space and nobody wants a old curved needle around. Also chinese sites show a rc32 4a a angled elevated toe patcher which just might sew insoles to outsole. This would eliminated the Goodyear type construction and allow shoemakers to eliminate a difficult handsew operation.

need partial spool of #8 speedmaster wire, don't think I can make enough shoes to buy a full spool.