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I do have both manuals but could use help from forum members on a easy way to send to you images. Don't run till lubed. I suspect flywheel was changed for a reason. My machine had the flywheel machined and brake shoes replaced. I did add a second control for safety, since I had employees running machine. I use 30 wt. oil. USMC recommend something special else it's in the manual.

These are great machines once properly adjusted. However they have one problem they will double click or worse after a few hours of use. The internal clutch will grab the flywheel and the external brake will not be able to stop the engagement. This is a small issue once you are used to the machine you either back off the clutch or increase the brake pressure. The were designed for cutting shoe soles at a rate of 600 pairs a day.

I bought one off these machines because my Adler or Singer patchers didn't have enough lift or stitch length to put pulls on the boots I make. It has adjustment for needle bar and hook. The cams are bearings vs plain and the main shaft has ball bearings. Because of adjustable needle bar I use 135x17 needles. It has a longer stitch than most shoe patchers and it has a 1/2 lift. The bobbin winder is crap and the bobbin and hook need polishing. It handles 92 bobbins and 138 needle thread. I put a Teflon pad on the throat plate. There is a video on youtube Wolf Moehrle who will make most of you jealous with this machine. His wallets are very well done.

This is commonly called a line shaft clutch. Put a 1 1/2" pulley on that motor with 1725 rpm and you will have a ideal upholstery setup. I also used this on the bike circuit especially in rural areas like Sturgis because you could buy a motor at the farm store but not a servo or clutch motor. However a servo motor is the best choice. So if you have control problems buy one of those. If you want to make money go as fast as you can handle the machine.

Please make a note on bobbins. Large bobbin machines such as 211 singers and Consew 206 are all susceptible to warpage with too tight a tension when winding the thread. Not likely with G or L bobbins. Put a new bobbin in that machine and see how it sews.

I would check with Melody Machine in Calif. Also would check whether you have a filter and if changes were made to aftermarket. Also lube machine well before starting. If it moves or pivotes lube it. A dry machine puts tremendous loads on the pump.

There is a bunch of stuff you need to check. Uwe Grosse has a excellent You tube video on timing Consew 225. Check your bottom tension using a tiny screwdriver to lift the front of tension flap on hook, just enough to blowout any debris. Than check if tension increases. Also the hook basket may have debris and thread pcs under basket. This is fairly easy if you have done it dozens of times. Don't lose those tiny screws. To get the best help take pictures of thread path, and hook with needle bar at top position Also clean tension discs. I'm sure more help is coming.

I also share your interest Mostly for shoesoling. Most race track tires are non radial as are motorcycle, atv tires and trailer tires. Speedway Motors sells tire groovers. I have a dream of taking tire treads remolding with heat and pressure to make soles for shoes and sandals. Keep me informed if you can. tx Lynn

I glue a pc. of 2mm teflon to the toe of my shoe patcher. If you scuff it with sandpaper on the back side and clean the toe with acetone or lacquer thinner you can glue it down with good results. I've used both contact cement and epoxy. You only need about a inch or so forward of the pivot. Round off the teflon so it won't grab on the edge. If anybody has a source for gluable teflon pls. let me know. You can do a lot with a shoe patcher using this slight modification. Leather drags.

This is a common issue on this forum. There is 3 issues # 1 tension, most machines release tension by knee lift and or by lifting lever. You have to sew with no tension release, and you may consider after stopping pull thread tight. I have adjusted my tension release at the very top of its travel. #2 I use SD1 needles seems to work with minimum eruption on the back side of the leather. #3 I use Merrow floss commonly used to put edge on patches. Available in small spools from red Rock Threads online. This thread is all poly, strong. and is fairly thick. It has good shine and shows well wallets and bags. You may not duplicate the saddle stitch but can get close.

Go to ebay-leather-punches multi punches in box DIY 39 should be on first page. tx Lynn

This a USM model C. I've used this machine for twenty years. I sold my Fipi and Swabe when I sold my business 14 years ago. My machine has been reliable with only one used part from Melody Machine.I also got a die bender and punches to do steel rule dies. This machine is susceptible to double clicking after about a 1000 clicks on small dies. don't see them in factories for that reason. They work with a internal clutch which heats up. Formerly used for cutting shoe soles. The primary problem is stopping on the die, however there is a release mechanism at the, top most just back it off with a large pipe wrench. Lot ta marks on the hub. It's my pet machine, most use 220 single phase, you can replace with a 110 motor. Manuals are available on EBAY. If it was me not over $1,000 and it has to work. tx Lynn

I don't have the part. sorry Lynn

I see what you need. I will look tomorrow and let you know. tx Lynn

If you turn the hand wheel backwards the stitches will shorten. That said if it stops 5spi pulling the handwheel towards you and you can do only that amount it might be frozen . The selector is also attached to the arm that regulates stitch length. So you have to check that. If it was me I would soak in PB blaster. Then I would attach a vice grip to the shaft maybe protecting it with a piece veg. I would than center the selector and rock back forth and feel the movement. no changes soak again ! Don't turn so hard it that will damage the belt.

I suggest you google Pantone color. Pick your color and then ask your thread supplier if they can match it. Another way is go to a paint store and match your item and mail chip to thread supplier. My last choice is 3 spools of poly home machine thread most cases it will work on a patcher. good luck

Soak with PB Blaster. Keep wet for a couple days. Than use a long screw driver and tap with hammer. You can dissolve plates, screws and other loose metal items with The Works a degradable bowl cleaner. Soon as dry oil well.

Years ago as a itinerant leather vendor I used a bunch of these jack shaft clutches Currently I run a 111w155, a Union serger , and over lock. They have excellent control and the motor driving the clutch can be easily replaced. Or as ones used with a long belt running outside for some of my Amish friends. I think your problem is. One the bearing at the yellow arrow should turn free when the clutch is disengaged Second adjustment is at the orange arrow to free up movement. I always run a leather clutch belting dry. Make sure the main shaft is getting oil from the well

I have 2 staplers back in a corner of my garage in Fl. I'm still in Colo. until Nov. Shoot me a e-mail after Nov. 10 if your still looking. tx Lynn

Hello I have downloaded this info which may help your research. One of my trades is auto upholstery and I have been interested in the various leathers used. Why do european cars left in hot florida sun interiors deteriorate so quickly? The site I showed you shows a south carolina location. I know we have car production that of which some are exported. Do they have to meet european specifications. The site specs. veg tanned only and I would like to know how durable it is. I think your research will show that modern leather is corrected, thinner, more flexible, and not as durable. I also think 3rd world countries are making chrome finished splits with questionable durability. Keep in touch tx Lynn

I downloaded image from e-bay. This type of assembly is used on heavier machines, such as 112, 144, and 145. I would call machine dealers on this site for the parts you need. tx Lynn

I have a bunch of Merrow machines. I keep 3 in use for a Merrowed edge for custom patches. Very sturdy machine but not very heavy. I run mine with std. domestic sewing motors. Once set up they are very reliable. Bought my first one from online dealer it ran, but had to feed manually because he ground off the feed dog, bad, bad. They use cams to change stitch length. Of the two girls in the shop one won't use it and one will but only if I'm not available. They have a very good knife system. I use those small storage type racks from Sams for tables. That said a industrial serger 3 thread will work also for your needs. Juki and Siruba are very good. If I set up a Merrow machine It will run properly, however you will probably send it back several times to adjust or repair. Two issues breaking needles (failure to remove material properly) and failing to thread properly. I would sell one for $500. It will be set up. I would require materials to test, includes video prior to mailing. I welcome any comments. tx Lynn

I have these two. One with italian mark and one german. Commonly used in the saddle and other veg. leather venues. One is used daily in cutting heatsealed embroidered patches. The single sharpened upper edge makes a downward cut very clean . The other used in my shoe and leather hobby. For example after sewing a wallet I can cut a very clean line along the stitch line. Makes burnishing easier. As long as inside edge is clean or can be cleaned up with minimum removal their useful.

This is a twin needle attachment used to add a double stitch to a single needle sewing machine. The one shown I am modifying to make jeans belt loop. The one you have I could use to sew a narrow double line on shoe uppers. Let me know if I could buy one and after trying I will get back to you with feedback. tx Lynn

Coming from the world of upholstery when I need to pipe or welt I use a welt foot of appropriate size. For boot side seams and purse piping I used lawn trimmer string. The hardware or big box store has many sizes and it is stiff. Plus you can melt the end and pull an appropriate taper. Lacking the right size foot a zipper or side seam foot will work.