ljk

I see what you need. I will look tomorrow and let you know. tx Lynn

If you turn the hand wheel backwards the stitches will shorten. That said if it stops 5spi pulling the handwheel towards you and you can do only that amount it might be frozen . The selector is also attached to the arm that regulates stitch length. So you have to check that. If it was me I would soak in PB blaster. Then I would attach a vice grip to the shaft maybe protecting it with a piece veg. I would than center the selector and rock back forth and feel the movement. no changes soak again ! Don't turn so hard it that will damage the belt.

I suggest you google Pantone color. Pick your color and then ask your thread supplier if they can match it. Another way is go to a paint store and match your item and mail chip to thread supplier. My last choice is 3 spools of poly home machine thread most cases it will work on a patcher. good luck

Soak with PB Blaster. Keep wet for a couple days. Than use a long screw driver and tap with hammer. You can dissolve plates, screws and other loose metal items with The Works a degradable bowl cleaner. Soon as dry oil well.

Years ago as a itinerant leather vendor I used a bunch of these jack shaft clutches Currently I run a 111w155, a Union serger , and over lock. They have excellent control and the motor driving the clutch can be easily replaced. Or as ones used with a long belt running outside for some of my Amish friends. I think your problem is. One the bearing at the yellow arrow should turn free when the clutch is disengaged Second adjustment is at the orange arrow to free up movement. I always run a leather clutch belting dry. Make sure the main shaft is getting oil from the well

I have 2 staplers back in a corner of my garage in Fl. I'm still in Colo. until Nov. Shoot me a e-mail after Nov. 10 if your still looking. tx Lynn

Hello I have downloaded this info which may help your research. One of my trades is auto upholstery and I have been interested in the various leathers used. Why do european cars left in hot florida sun interiors deteriorate so quickly? The site I showed you shows a south carolina location. I know we have car production that of which some are exported. Do they have to meet european specifications. The site specs. veg tanned only and I would like to know how durable it is. I think your research will show that modern leather is corrected, thinner, more flexible, and not as durable. I also think 3rd world countries are making chrome finished splits with questionable durability. Keep in touch tx Lynn

I downloaded image from e-bay. This type of assembly is used on heavier machines, such as 112, 144, and 145. I would call machine dealers on this site for the parts you need. tx Lynn

I have a bunch of Merrow machines. I keep 3 in use for a Merrowed edge for custom patches. Very sturdy machine but not very heavy. I run mine with std. domestic sewing motors. Once set up they are very reliable. Bought my first one from online dealer it ran, but had to feed manually because he ground off the feed dog, bad, bad. They use cams to change stitch length. Of the two girls in the shop one won't use it and one will but only if I'm not available. They have a very good knife system. I use those small storage type racks from Sams for tables. That said a industrial serger 3 thread will work also for your needs. Juki and Siruba are very good. If I set up a Merrow machine It will run properly, however you will probably send it back several times to adjust or repair. Two issues breaking needles (failure to remove material properly) and failing to thread properly. I would sell one for $500. It will be set up. I would require materials to test, includes video prior to mailing. I welcome any comments. tx Lynn

I have these two. One with italian mark and one german. Commonly used in the saddle and other veg. leather venues. One is used daily in cutting heatsealed embroidered patches. The single sharpened upper edge makes a downward cut very clean . The other used in my shoe and leather hobby. For example after sewing a wallet I can cut a very clean line along the stitch line. Makes burnishing easier. As long as inside edge is clean or can be cleaned up with minimum removal their useful.

This is a twin needle attachment used to add a double stitch to a single needle sewing machine. The one shown I am modifying to make jeans belt loop. The one you have I could use to sew a narrow double line on shoe uppers. Let me know if I could buy one and after trying I will get back to you with feedback. tx Lynn

Coming from the world of upholstery when I need to pipe or welt I use a welt foot of appropriate size. For boot side seams and purse piping I used lawn trimmer string. The hardware or big box store has many sizes and it is stiff. Plus you can melt the end and pull an appropriate taper. Lacking the right size foot a zipper or side seam foot will work.

Hello I do have a 144w103 in Colorado, have some history. Also have a 111w155 in Florida that was the crinkle 50sh paint. Excellent original condition. tx Lynn

I've have or had a Schabe, a Fipi, and a USM model C. I sold my business but kept the C. The C is very fast and reliable but only good for about 1000 clicks per day after that the flywheel gets warm and can multiple click (not good) The Fipi has auto height, I had to replace the trigger (microswitches) The Schwabe has never had anything but fluid replaced, simple design. Both machines run on phase converters. If weight is a problem a Tippman might be a good choice, or a Solar 10ton (check weight) Both can be viewed on Y tube. Best thing is the ability to manipulate a hide around the cutting mat. Those little mechanical clickers.don't look like much to me. My choice Cowboy cb10 good luck LJK

I do have a 30-1 It is setup with a gear belt reduction mounted on the back. This was a commercial system available back in the 90s. I used this machine on the bike circuit sewing patches and doing leather repair. It fits into a box for transport and also is used as a table. Has had work on the head will do 5/6 per inch depending in material thickness. Arm I would rate very good. Machine at my shop in Colorado won't be there till middle may. Price $750 If interested let me know and will send pictures when I get to Colorado

I made the comment about the (31-19) because there may have been a possible miscommunication between the seller and buyer about the number. I have the short version I use for vamps. I also lengthen the stitches on most of the 33 and 44 series machine I have owned. The 31-15 was the go to machine for upholstery when I started the 111w machines where very expensive. I knew a girl on the bike circuit who used a 31-15 and not just a patch sewer, she could put a zipper in a heavy leather. She was a very accomplished stitcher. Good old machine.

Hello The 31-19 was a walking foot. A fellow I knew had a leather factory and used them to sew thin western jackets and vests. He kept parts and said he could repair and service them in minutes.

It seems like everybody clicks toward the middle therefore you get a slight valley. Naturally after time you get uneven cutting and possible die bending. Now I'm speaking of red die boards, and also wood boards. I go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap planner, about forty bucks. Use a low setting and plane from outside edge toward the middle. As you get toward the center the cutting action will lessen. Continue planning all around the edge until it will cut across clean and smooth. These planners usually run flat but adjusting the blades can be done

This is a good straight stitcher with reverse, includes roller foot for leather. Regular high shank industrial machine $250 Located near Daytona Beach.

These machines were used for a special leather product (vintage BMW) tank bags. Set up with teflon feet, split needle bar on 112w140. Also has special speed reduction pulley that can be quickly converted to high speed. The table also has plate you add to front of cuttout so you can use regular 111w style machine (included) Machines are near Daytona Beach but could be moved to southern Colorado in may (yearly) trip. total $650

It's been a fifty year adventure starting with upholstery and auto trim, followed by leather garments in the motorcycle industry. Today I'm veg tanning deer and elk for use in boots, shoes, wallets and purses. All but the current hobby were for profit businesses. I've had to adjust to have any success While looking for past info and pricing I have some evidence of an alarming pattern. Namely the continued effort too utilize subepidermal (split) leather) into top grain product. This has happened with me, getting corrected product not as advertised. The term full grain was not in my info 25 years again. Top grain was. We should question any supplier that does not divulge all info.

I believe your loose thread issue on corners or turning is caused by releasing tension by hand or by knee lift. This causes the first stitch or so to not tension up properly. Pull on the thread before the tension assembly, than stitch. I always make sure the take-up lever is at top or slightly descending before restarting. If this works than adjust tension assembly so the release is in the upper portion of the lift. Some machines don't have tension releases, my Singer 144w305 for example. Perhaps the experts could chim in, this issue has come up before and should be addressed.

I have a Singer 144w305 w/reverse Used these machines in my leather shop we called it T-Rex When 7 layers of 4oz said no on my 206s we went to good old T -Rex. Looking for CB3200 money.

lI have no financial interest in this thread just trying to help. my go to machine in Fl. is a $2.00 auction bought 111w155 my thread is a $6.00 spool of bag sewing thread. you should learn to handstitch by doing those tool pouches, with a awl and some John Roberts needles your good to go. use two different colors of thread to prove it's done by hand. machines keep the top thread and bobbin thread on the bottom. I sew my uppers by machine (LIGHT LEATHER CAN BE DONE WITH OLD BLACK SINGER AND TEFLON OR ROLLER FOOT). my soles are done by hand in front of the computer (netflix) at night. I sew my insole to midsole and my midsole to outsole. all leather!!!!!!!! if you want a 3/8" plus leather sewing machine follow the advice of the forum members. the leather for the boots was home tanned veg elk I did myself. keep in touch tx Lynn

my bootmaking is part of a 50 year adventure in sewing, fabric and leather fabrication. as I age my best attributes are my eyes, hands, and experience. standing all day is hard. youtube and facebook will be your University . start by watching videos till you learn the learn the basics. then scour junk shops for footwear that fit your size and style, pay special attention to "how to measure". while junking look for tools, tools, tools. now take your favorite boot apart to learn construction, then start looking for a last. you can probably do the whole deal to get started for less than $200. I just made a pair of penny loafers with a $8 leather package including veg. and chrome from Hobby lobby on sale.