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  1. Gunnarsson

    Singer 29-4 usable?

    When they come up for sale here in Sweden they tend to either cost 500 or 5000 SEK suprisingly often, occasionally I've seen them up around 10000. The SEK to US dollar exchange rate is 9.37 today, so that roughly translates to 55, 550 and 1100 US dollars now. The $55-group generally contains machines that appear to be coming from grandpas basement/attic when the kids clean it out, covered by a thick layer of dust, some rust, and no one knows anything more than you can see in the pictures of the ad. The $550-group is usually machines in some sort of running condition, sometimes good, sometimes not. A few are from people who don't know what they have, they've just seen others advertised at the price so they try it too. The up to $1100-machines are straight out of a cobblers shop, just replaced by a newer machine. (When those machines are sold by a company the tax situation is different, basically making it 1/5 cheaper for another company to buy it, but not for common people, so the price isn't as high as it may seem for the likely buyers - other cobblers.) I know 29's generally cost less here in Sweden than many other parts of the world. But still, I wouldn't pay anywhere near $550 even for a machine in perfect shape, they're good at what they do but they simply don't do enough to motivate that high price. Especially not being 50+ years old and spare part supply and quality is inconsistent. Double that money (or don't, if you're lucky) and you may have a triple feed industrial machine instead that seems way more useful and worth an investment. For someone with a lot of use for a cobbler style machine it would make sense to pay up for a good one, for a DIYer that may use it a few times a year I don't think it makes sense. Most people could make more useful investments. Stupid money? Well, that all depends on the situation, how good the machine is, how much use you have for it, and if it'll bring in money once you are using it. I paid ~$800 for a welder that probably has paid for itself since and been a great help, I can see paying quite a bit for a good small lathe as it would be very useful (as for making 29K parts perhaps, cutting gears isn't rocket science ), but I'd be crazy to pay a lot for a sewing machine that may see the odd hour of (unpaid) work each year and take up quite a bit of space.
  2. Gunnarsson

    Singer 29-4 usable?

    I'll keep that in mind. But as I'm staying in the lowest end of the price range and in my local area I have little hope for having much of a choice, there's not much available. I just like the patchers ability to get into hard to reach spots and sew any direction, would be a nice addition to my domestic machine (for non-leather work), but i don't really need one so I'm not gonna fight people prepared to pay stupid money for one. One will turn up sooner or later, I'm not in a hurry.
  3. Gunnarsson

    Singer 29-4 usable?

    All right, thanks! I'm keeping an eye out for a cheap(!) 29 and would be happy with an early one as long as it's complete, but I'm expecting to have to make some new or refurbish worn out parts myself. Not in the mood for buying new replacements just to find out they're (chinese?) low quality parts that don't fit well and need modification, might as well refurbish worn parts or make my own from scratch then. Trying to do the research first so I know what to look for on a machine when I find it.
  4. Gunnarsson

    Singer 29-4 usable?

    Are you referring to the gears under the bobbin area only, or something located "earlier" in the timing mechanism? (I'm not familiar with how the "earlier" part of the mechanism is made.)
  5. Gunnarsson

    New to me Pfaff 1245 feeds backwards

    Any chance the reverse lever has lost a spring or something like that, so it has fallen to reverse position?
  6. Gunnarsson

    Singer 112g141 restoration problems

    Welding, brazing/silver soldering or making parts yourself is a great option for many repairs. Good job!
  7. Gunnarsson

    Singer 112g141 restoration problems

    Rotating inertia doesn't care about where on the circle the weight is located. Gravity would have a small effect, but I can't imagine anyone trying to use that on a high speed machine, causing it to be out of balance and getting vibrations because of it. IF the wheel is heavier on one side (it may not be, hard to tell from one side) it WILL be to counter balance something else, on the opposite side.
  8. Gunnarsson

    Portable compound feed machines?

    Others have talked about the difficulty in sewing straight and well while using one hand for cranking, so I believe I would be putting motor on it sooner or later. But sure, if i don't get a suitable one at the same time as the head I will most likely try hand cranking it, it's not like I could have the head available and not try to use it!
  9. Gunnarsson

    Portable compound feed machines?

    I have been thinking about getting a true industrial machine, putting it on a box like those portable "semi industrial" Sailrites etc, and hanging a suitable motor off the back. Big and heavy, but way easier to find room for than an entire table. The available portable machines just seem too limited, lots of money for a machine with basically the same capacity as a vintage domestic, just plus the walking foot. Might as well aim for something with descent capacity.
  10. Gunnarsson

    Sewing Machine conundrum

    I'm also just a hobbyist with very limited experience, I'm keeping my eyes open for a usable sewing machine but so far I'm really mostly doing research and trying to learn what to look for. In my eyes, the Boss is an interesting machine, but priced way higher than it is worth to me. On the positive side it has impressive capacity, on the negative side it seems like alot of people have problems with them (especially the later aluminum ones) and being hand cranked it will be slow and noisy - probably fast enough for the hobbyist doing an item now and then, but much too slow and labour intensive for actual production work. If I come across one very cheap I'd probably buy it just to try it out, but I'd probably sell it on once I'm done playing with it and use the money for something with a motor.
  11. Gunnarsson

    Leather scissor vs. fish scissor, difference?

    Allright then, I've got to give it a try when I find one that hasn't been killed by abuse or rust!
  12. Gunnarsson

    Leather scissor vs. fish scissor, difference?

    The old ones I've seen have certainly not been stainless either, but it sounds like they're worth taking a chance on assuming I can find them in good enough condition - the rust has usually done quite a bit of damage in all the wrong places. But they'll be cheap for sure, anything over (equal to) $2 or 3 and I'll walk away if they're not in very good condition.
  13. Gunnarsson

    29K Broken Base

    Nickle rod might be the easiest way to weld it (a good reason that has made the method popular), but there are many options and that one might not always be the best. Unlike a brazed or O/A weld with actual cast iron filler the usual MMA nickel rod w/o preheat and slow cooling welding will cause the cast iron around the weld to cool down so quick it becomes white cast iron (instead of grey) with a high amount of iron carbide making it very hard and more brittle.
  14. Gunnarsson

    29K Broken Base

    Brazing can actually be stronger than the cast iron itself. I've got old oxygen/acetylene welding handbooks from the 1930s-60s (when O/A was the go to method) where they describe a cast iron brazing test. You build up a "wart" of brazing bronze, about ½" diameter and height if I recall, on a cast iron plate. Once it's done and cooled down you hit the wart from the side with a hammer until it breaks loose, if you've done it right the brazing bronze will take a layer of iron with it, i.e. the bronze doesn't come loose, rather the cast iron breaks under it. I'm sure there are some methods to weld cast iron with a stronger result, but what's the point? There's still cast iron right there next to the weld ready to break if you overload it again.
  15. I come across old scissors similar to these at flea markets every now and then, this general shape, one blade with teeth and one with a regular straight edge. This style scissor seems to be sold as leather scissor and fish scissor (for cutting fins etc.). Do you know if there is an actual diffrence between them, and if it really makes a diffrence when using them for either job? I've been picking up old rusty fabric shears and restore them to usable condition for a few years now, if those leather/fish scissors work good enough in leather they might be worth the effort too, but I have no interest in them if they're useless outside the kitchen. Especially since the old ones i find aren't stainless.