TomBanwell

Well, Tammy, I've been working on a lizard mask (before you ask, it's of a lizard, not for a lizard--ha-ha). I ran out of the brown thread I was using and I drove to town to get some more. The local hobby shop was all out and wouldn't get it in for several days, so I called the closest Tandys to order some. They have it on back order. So I ordered some other brown thread they had. The lady said it was a little darker, but not too different. Two days later it arrived in the mail. I opened it up and it was black (even though the package said brown). So then I emailed ST Leather and ordered some from them. Two days went by and I hadn't heard back, so I phoned them. Got a recorded message saying they were going on vacation for 4 days. By then I figured my local store had it in since almost a week had gone by. No such luck. They still didn't have it. Well, I still don't have any brown thread, so my lizard mask is gathering dust. Sigh. Thanks for the info on Angelus. I'll look into getting some.

Sorry to disappoint you, Caroline, but there was no leather involved. I was just testing to see how well the rubber bladder would pull down around the face form. I am going to give some veggie tanned leather a go with this setup, and I'll let you know the results.

I tried the same face form I used before on my flatbed vacuum former. This setup uses a sheet of natural rubber to maintain the vacuum seal, so you can use a much smaller piece of leather for the mask. On the downside is that you can't directly work the leather to eliminate wrinkles. Unlike a plastic bag, the natural rubber lays quite smooth against the form, due to it's ability to stretch quite a bit.

Tammy, thanks for explaining your techniques in such detail. The finishing of leather is new to me, so everything helps. Where do you get the Angelus leather paint from?

Very cool technique. Thanks for posting that.

Wow, Ken! Somehow I missed your tutorial the first time around. Really beautiful, amazing work!

Thanks, Caroline. I like the idea of the double elastic band. I'm surprised you spray a sealer on. I would think that something that would soak in would provide more protection. I was wondering if Neatlac would do the trick.

Thanks, Gibbs. I'm got a good set of dyes. I'm looking for paints that will be opaque so I can go with brighter colors. Is the Eco Flo a paint?

I am enjoying making a few formed leather masks, but have some questions. What kind of paints can I airbrush on that will maintain some degree of flexibility? How about metallic paints? What should I seal the wet-shaped mask with once it's finished to keep it from absorbing water in the future and lose it's shape? And what do other maskmakers use for tying the mask on? Is there a wholesale source for those elastic bands, or do you prefer using leather or something else? Thanks a bunch for any help.

Nicely done, Tina!

I'm so glad you like the mask. One never knows how someone will react to a gift when you know virtually nothing about them.

I tried two other accounting programs before discovering Quickbooks. It is the industry standard, and in my experience simply the best.

Wow, Caroline! Great mask and great tutorial! Thanks so much for posting that. It is so educational to see how other artists work. Always gets the grey matter whirring! How did you do the coloring? It looks like airbrushed pearlescent paint. Is that what it is, or is it something different? Thanks,

I recommend using an airbrush. It is the only way I know of to get an even coating of dye on a large area.

I received my 2/3 oz veggy cowhide today, and proceede to try the same vacuum technique that worked with the lambskin. It is much less stretchy, and thicker, and didn't work well. I discovered a hole in the piece I had prepared which made fully testing it impossible without starting over again, but from how it was going I am skeptical that it's going to work.

Great, thanks to everyone who's responded (although I think Ferret is calling my sword "wimpy" for only weighing 2½ lbs)! I think I will build a wooden core and cover it. I'll post a picture when it's done. I'm planning on doing some decorative celtic knots on it.

OK, gang, here's my entry in the "Bad Ass" logo competition. What's that you say? It's not a competition?!! Well, dang! Does that mean I can't win anything? heh-heh

I have a reproduction Viking sword from Albion with a 31" blade that I'd like to build a scabbard for. What is the normal construction technique used? Is a rigid sheet material covered with leather, or is it made entirely out of leather? The sword weighs 2½ lbs, so I wouldn't want the scabbard to be too flimsy. Any help is appreciated. Thanks,

Oh, guess you were looking for texture. I was thinking coloration.

Here is a picture of the other set-up I referred to earlier. It is a flat-bed vacuum former, designed for making foot orthotics, but would work well with masks as well. The table has a series of small holes in it through which the vacuum pulls air. The top lowers down over the table, and after the edges seal, the natural rubber bladder (tan colored) is pulled down around your form. If your leather isn't airtight (for instance, if you've sewn more than one piece together), you will need the bladder or something similar to contain the vacuum. This method makes it harder to work out the wrinkles, but does save on how much leather is wasted.

I've bought from The Hide House in Napa, California for close to 30 years. I highly recommend them. http://www.hidehouse.com/

I've gotten a similar look to tortoise shell by making a stencil and airbrushing through it. The stencil should be held slightly above the leather so the dye bleeds under it and gives a soft edge. Shift the stencil slightly and spray again with a second color.

Apparently sporrans were made with different designs. Upon examining my sporran I found that the brass cantle does not function as an opening. It is merely a decorative piece. The actual purse is accessed from the back and is closed by a single brass button. This sporran dates to around 1915 when my grandfather enlisted in the 42nd Highlanders. The bag is made of red leather with a shiny finish, and black leather piping (the color largely worn off) all around the edge and the flap. The back and pocket are all one piece of leather, with a gusset sewn in to allow the pocket to open. It is a very small pocket in terms of how much it could hold. The five black horsehair tassels are wrapped in a rigid black leather and tied onto the back rhrough brass grommets with cotton string. The long white horsehair is sewn across the front in cascading layers. The strap I suspect is not original, as the brass buckle is held on with aluminum pop rivets which don't look period. The side view shows how flat the sporran lies.

Here is another site that sells sporrans http://www.highlandbrigade.com/products/index.asp I will pull out my granddad's sporran later today and photograph it.

Interesting you should ask about sporrans. I don't have a pattern, but I do have my grandfather's sporran from WWI. He went to France with the Canadian 42nd Highlanders, a regiment of the Black Watch. I've been thinking of making one similar to his, as it is very cool looking. Here is a picture of him wearing it.