Handstitched

G'Day, I really feel for you guys, thats seriously cold. But here in Oz, we've been experiencing the exact opposite. I'm in the Central Wheatbelt of Western Australia we've had low to high 40's for weeks on end, and into the low 50's ( around 120+ F in your part of the world) and in the east. Electronics don't like the extreme heat either. Fussy machines eh? Only these last few days its been cooler, but set to warm up again soon. Take care, HS

I second that Joshstrange . But over the years, I have become quite adept at modifying patterns to fit particular projects or jobs. Either that or lose money. For example, a tooled bag with acorns & oak leaves etc. Sometimes I would pick an acorn from this pattern, and oak leaf from another to make up a design that I like. The pattern becomes a ' bitsa' ( bits 'a this and bits a' that) We call breeds of dogs that here in Oz . But its the end result that counts. I think that over time, you will become quite good with a pencil and paper, have confidence, you might even surprise yourself Also , I do use the photo copier at our local Shire office to enlarge or reduce a pattern , very handy. HS

G'Day, Firstly, welcome the the forum Hoping that I've got my conversions right, ( I work in milimetres here in Oz ) your backing leather is approx 2- 2.5 mm? Sole bend, approx 5 - 6.0 mm ? Thats 8.5mm . We'll say 9mm total. I wouldn't have thought you'd have any problems sewing that thickness.I have virtually the same machine ( but different name) . I have attached a few pics of a test piece that I did a long time ago, mainly for my own curiosity .They're a bit blurry, sorry. The test piece was 5 ( dry) layers of 4mm ( 10 oz) D/S = just slightly over 20mm, about 22mm when measured. The machine sewed it no problem. However, I did go very slowly. The needle was understandably quite warm when I finished. I use 277 M10 thread, and # 24 needle. I've never had any jobs that require that thickness, but its good to know these awesome machines are very capable of sewing it. But I would like to do harness work in the future. But as for whats causing the problem, I don't know what suggest. Maybe perhaps do a little test like I did. Sew some that is veg tan, some dyed, wet, dry, etc. A process of elimination? I haven't been much help. Sorry HS

Any updates ?

G'Day LottyAfrica , This is just a very small cross section of the molds that I use, some with pencil marks, measurements etc.. Some are 'one off's ' ( but never go to waste), but the majority I use all the time. I also have some much larger molds as well. The ones on the far left, are made of pine, mostly from off cuts and scraps. The remainder are made from MDF. Both woods are easy to shape and cheap. I do sometimes slide the molds out during drying , hence the shiny packing tape. I also use a scrap layer of leather to help with sizing etc. You can also see how phone cases have changed in size over the years. The one next to the axe/ multi-tool mold , bottom right, is how they use to be, ( like the one I have now ) compared to the " paving slab" on the top right. Sure wish phone companies make their minds up Ha ha !! So I guess you have to be a bit of a wood worker as well, ( something I'm not) . It comes with practice I'm sure HS

I use MDF molds on just about every case I need to make . Easy to work with, sand, grind, shape etc. and its cheap. Glue two bits together to make a bigger mold if you want. Very versatile . HS

G'Day, I use x 2 press studs , line 24's , so the customer has the option of changing the buckle . But some of the heavier belts, tool belts etc. are either sewn or riveted . HS

Tandy Australia are shutting shop in March and will ship from the US. I received a "specials" email from them ....the first in about 2 months, .... but it was " in-store only specials" , Um....they're in the east....about 4000k's away . Yeah.... good one , needless to say I deleted the email. All the printed catalogues have stopped altogether now . I have to agree.I now have 3 main suppliers that sell the same thing as Tandy, but cheaper...and do wholesale without joining a club. Tandy never existed when I started leather work 14 years ago, never even heard of them ( with exception of the electronics retailer....and they went years ago ). And now, its almost like they don't exist again.Back then, I found all my tools, supplies etc. in a pokey little shop run by a little ol' lady in Perth by going through the yellow pages ( pre internet) . Ditto for my sides of leather, found a supplier in Bayswater ( Perth), in the yellow pages and asking that lil' ol' lady a lot of questions . All my ' how to ' stuff came courtesy of books , and word of mouth, asking questions etc. and simply by working stuff out for myself . I didn't discover ' youtube' until many years later. HS

I have also noticed that the catalogues & emails have stopped . The other inconvenience, now for some , is this : "International Transaction Charge may apply based on your credit card issuer." I'm just glad that I have more than one supplier in Oz . The Aussie dollar is still in the toilet , and still not viable to order from the States . ' Patience grasshopper' HS

The alignment would have to be very precise . All the best, and let us know how it turns out eh ? HS

G'Day, VYO , I've been trading with this company since I started leather work , over 14 years ago. https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/DYE1Lw/Birdsall-Leather-dye-1Ltr/pd.php Theres only a slight difference between ' Dark Tan & Ox Blood ' , Ox blood being slightly darker. HS

It usually takes around 4, sometimes 5-6 hrs for a belt, but then again, I'm in no rush to get it done . I find it relaxing perhaps therapeutic doing hand stitching... ..while I'm watching a DVD I do around two, sometimes three ' arms length' of thread <------- about this long ---------> depending on the length. If I try to rush it, theres the potential of making mistakes. HS

Yep , thats airbrushed, and looks lovely I took me a while to figure out how that was achieved after seeing some holsters, rifle cases etc on display with a similar effect in a leather shop in Perth , WA one day. Then ' the penny dropped ' and then invested in an air brush. It does take a bit of setting up ( for me anyway) , but the end results are very effective. I also learned to put a sealer through a ( different) spray gun on a light setting , giving it its nice sheen. @VYO I have a colour like that called ' dark tan' or Ox blood. HS

We all love a great bargain eh ? Well done. HS

I second that with bells on I have learnt from machine sewing simple knife pouches, sheathes , leatherman type cases etc. if I get too close to the edge , my machine makes a totally different sound. We all know the sound of our own machines, so Instead of the nice virtually smooth noiseless sewing, it will make a ' clack clack clack ' sound ( along with a sudden drop in blood pressure and a bead of sweat) . I know I got too close to the edge. So now , I sew first, trim/ grind / burnish and polish and make pretty after. HS P.S. As for the foot marks, a technique I use, depending on the job, I sometimes use a large thick ' D' ring and rub it along the mark. With a bit of ' elbow grease' using different parts of the ' D' , and perhaps a bit of polishing, it does help eliminate it. HS

Although I'm in Western Australia, I did make inquiries into the Leather Workers Guild of N.S.W. in the very early days, ( in the east of Australia) thinking it may be beneficial . There are none in WA .( just one club to my knowledge) I know I couldn't attend meetings , workshops etc. in person being so far away, but we could still share ideas patterns, techniques etc. as well as being in contact with and support fellow leather crafters.....well, so I thought. After 3 -4 emails or more ....and patiently waiting and thinking " I can finally be part of something I really enjoy, " ...I got no reply , not one single reply. So I just figured that joining a guild was not a good idea after all. I also once held a ' medieval view' that guilds were closed to ' outsiders', because thats how it was once upon a time. That was the impression I got from LWGNSW. ( sorry) I haven't bothered since. But CelticDragon, good luck in your search HS

G'Day, I have found, just from my own experience, that the smell of the dyes , sealers , adhesives etc. do go away after a while, with just the lovely aroma of the leather remaining. But that doesn't last long either. But I have also noticed, that when customers come to my workshop or stall, the first thing they say is, "*sniiiiiif* mmmmm....a'hhhh... I love the smell of leather" ( sure wish I had a dollar for every time they said that) ....but I can't smell it. I've become so use to it , with the brief exception of perhaps the first thing in morning when I open my workshop door. HS

Thats actually quite good Over time, that will develop a lovely patina . HS

Keep it away from sunlight, in a dark or shady place and away from any heat sources . Keep it covered too if you can. HS

@alexitbe & @councilman24 here, I've found a parts list , its in an assortment of languages but I hope its helps https://www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/9pf23e73.pdf I found it on here: https://www.universalsewing.com/tek9.asp?pg=parts_pfaff HS

Ye Gods, Thats some serious damage. It must have received one almighty ' wallop ' to snap the shaft. I thinks its safe to say that everyone on here is feeling your hurt . Well, if it was mine I'd be considering three options A total rebuild/ restoration Replace just the shaft and/or obtaining a donor machine I think the third option maybe good idea if you wish to speed things up to get into making shoes ? Whatever you decide to do, I wish you the best , HS

To all leather crafters from ' Down Under' to ' Up Over', young & old, newbies and the experienced , have a Merry Leathercrafting Christmas and a very Creative & Happy New Year . May all your leather ideas, plans and patterns come to fruition in the New Year. Stay Safe....as in don't injure yourself with a needle or a blade HA !! HS

I do something similar to chrisash . I use brown paper, news paper etc. using pins , paper clips/clamps UHU glue or what ever to make a gusset /pattern . Once I'm happy with the size shape etc. then I cut out the leather pieces. It my take a lot fiddling around as you're forever making adjustments to the paper template. But the upside to it , you may only have to do it once and can use it to make many projects . If I know I'm going to make a run of the same thing, then a MDF, or hard template may be considered. HS

It was very common to cut cardboard like that, a bit like hanging a piece of wood off the side of a bench to cut it, an action that I probably did 1000's of times over the years making pools, ...but it only took just that 1 time .... it was a new blade as well, which is probably why I didn't feel a thing....4 stitches later......or was it 5 ? Back on topic: Each & every time I use my big saddle machine, I remind myself of the time my Mother put a needle through her finger, reminding me to keep my hands and fingers WELL CLEAR . Her machine was a domestic machine....the saddle machine is not, ......its a domestic machine that has overdosed on steroids HA HA HS

If it makes you feel any better, in my early days, I had my fingers a bit too far over the edge of the ruler, happily cutting away......I took the minutest bits of skin off the very tips of my fingers, no blood, but the tips of my fingers were nice and straight I've also put needles and awls into my fingers too many times to count. Off topic: I manufactured fibreglass pools in another life,and while making cardboard form work , I often used my leg as a ' work bench' . Come lunch time, I couldn't work out why blood was pouring out onto my boot..........there was a 2" long hole in my leg ....I got a bit too close with my blade....OOPS!! My Mother put a sewing machine needle right through her finger once, makes my needles and awls into my fingers look like mozzie bites . We all make the silliest of mistakes using tools ....do we learn from it? mmmmmm.....maybe HS