CaptQuirk

@malabar- We left Fla almost 8 years ago, and that whole area had blown up then, I have heard its even worse now. I remember when you couldn't find 2 houses within a mile of each other, and Palm Bay was "The Sticks".

I tried to do that after posting, but my connection wouldn't let this site load. This is the first time I have been able to get back in, in 16 hours. Sometimes the woods have a downside.

@NikkiPizzini, @seagiant- This thread is a year old, and the OP is likely not around any more, or at the very least, has sold out. There is a more recent post linked below. He doesn't come around very much, so the best thing is to call the number in his post. He may still have a few dummy guns left. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72535-98-dummy-guns-for-sale/#comment-474830

Is Holstier the correct term? It sounds good... Much more professional than "The Dude that does Leather".

I only have a few square feet of this leather left, so if I have any need to do black again, I'll try a 50/50 with rubbing alcohol? I'm also going to try the Pro Oil dye, and see how that works. So far, I have done 2 or 3 holsters with this side, and only the black one had issues. The brown ones came out fine, no issues at all. Incidentally, the SOB holster I posted earlier, is the one in question, and it was only a few spots, one in particular was dime sized, and very stubborn. The SBH holster I also posted earlier today, is from the same side, and from right next to where I cut the black holster.

The only wax was on the thread, and I don't use silicon on anything. The only oil would have been from my fingers. So, nothing comes to mind. I usually treat my leather carefully, just to make sure it doesn't get scratched or stained by anything. I have it rolled up in the paper that it was wrapped with, and even put a plastic bag over the ends when I store it between use. I wipe it down pretty well with oxalic acid, or barkeeper's friend in this case, before dying. The only other thing that might be a culprit, would be the rubber cement between the two layers of leather. But I am careful to keep it only on the flesh side, and not globbed on to where it might suck through. I have been doing things this way for a while, and never had the dye rub off like this.

It lies! If'n I was in Colorado, you could expect way more spelling errors, and lots of pointless ramblings

@OLDNSLOW- This issue was not with the USMC, it was the alcohol based black dye.

Very nice work! I particularly like the stitching. It may not be necessary, but it just adds another detail. Did you do it with a machine, or spend hours stitching by hand? I remember doing a gunbelt by hand, while watching a mini marathon on tv.

Ok, I'm not going to recite Shakespere, but there is a question that has been bugging me- A person the makes shoes is called a Cobbler. A person that makes Saddles is called a Saddler. A person that makes the skin for furniture is called an Upholsterer... so what do you call a guy that makes Holsters? A Holsterer? Is his shop called a Holstery?

I don't really mind the cabinet fading and peeling. When it gets ready to come back in the cabin, or gets a sewing shop to live in, I'll sand it down, oil it, and just try to preserve it. As far as parts, most folks seem to just scrap everything and try to sell the cast iron stand in antique stores.

I'd say you are an expert compared to me, or any one else I know. And the finish is fairly simple, you're right. It is also not at the top of my list, considering the work it will involve.

@TinkerTailor- I knew you were the one to ask! I do not know the model number, nor am I able to get a picture right now. Once it was deemed unusable, it was moved to the back of the storage building, which means it kinda got buried behind stuff. Once I moved my leather work area in the same building, more stuff got piled in front of it. I can see it, just can't get to it. As for the problems she was having, I'll have to describe it in novice terms, since I know nothing at all about any kind of sewing machine. There is a cone shaped thingy in the under region, that has something to do with the thread. While my Pops is old, and has been sewing for many years, this had him baffled. My wife is completely lost. When I can get back to it, I'll continue this thread (no pun intended), with some pics and a number. In the meanwhile, I can assure the missus there is indeed somebody that might be able to help her. As far as the machine itself goes, it looks to be in excellent condition, and moved freely. At least it did when it got moved to storage. The cabinet is in ok shape, specially considering it's age. There is a little fading and peeling of the veneer, but that happens to old stuff. My veneer is nowhere near as old, and it is also showing lots of wear and tear, so who am I to throw stones, right?

In one of the many posts, it seems like you mentioned owning an old Domestic treadle machine? I picked up an 1896 model in pretty good shape a few years back, hoping it might serve the wife's sewing needs on the homestead. Problem is, nobody can figure out how to use the thing. Would you happen to have some sort of literature, or even be able to describe the process of getting it going?

P.S. I just placed an order with Tandy for more dye, since I burned through all of the black that I had They don't have the black in alcohol based, so I ended up with the oil based. Never used it, so what kind of result can I expect?

@OLDNSLOW- I have ended up with a bottle or two of the USMC, and seriously didn't notice much of an issue with it. In this case, it was the plain old alcohol based Fiebings dye. I have used the medium and dark brown dyes, and the saddle tan, on this very same piece of hide, and no issue what-so-ever. But this one holster is black. I applied 2-3 coats, then hit it with neetsfoot. I noticed a few spots where I could see the leather. So I buff it out, and hit it with a few more HEAVY coats, rinse and repeat. I then hit it with oxalic acid and even rubbing alcohol, and one or two spots still want to reject the dye. Now, in some posts, I seem to remember that others apply a coat of brown first, then go with black? Is this accurate, or am I remembering wrong?

Well, I can rule out gum trag and silicone... so that just leaves Tandy leathers. Any guess on how to overcome this? I mean, aside from not ordering leather from Tandy.

No, it isn't just bleeding or transferring to other things. When I buff out some pieces, you can see the raw veg tan. This is after multiple coats, and even more coats when I see the leather showing through. I have tried cleaning with oxalic acid, rubbing alcohol, and even saddle soap. The only thing i haven't done, is dip dye. What else can I try?

I just started ordering from Weaver, but only because they were the only ones that had all the hardware I needed for an order. It was an added bonus, that they happened to have a free shipping promo on that day. I made a mistake with the order, and got the wrong sized ring. So I go back to their site, and have to wade through 10 pages of rings, with a really slow connection... again. Afterwards, I shot them an email asking for a catalogue, and received a response saying that only wholesale customers get a catalogue. I responded that their site was less than user friendly, the search function doesn't work well, and it takes forever to go through 10 pages to find one item. Long story slightly shortened, they are sending a catalogue. Now, I have to give them a lot of credit, because most places won't give an inch. They did. I haven't got any chance of opening a wholesale account with them, but I will seriously consider them for whenever I have the time to wait for stuff.

@MARSHY- In my case, it is a little bit of time, but mostly the fact that my work area really won't allow me to clamp a stamp well. I would rather whack and move on.

I always wanted to learn how to do wax casting

I don't have too many useful resources here, but red clay is abundant. Not sure plaster would hold up to the heat of melted brass, but sand or clay would.

Yeah, now you know where I'm going. I'd love to have a brass stamp, that I could use with a mallet. If the 3D printed ones can't handle impact, I can make a mold, smelt some of my excess brass, and pour it into that mold. Not to mention, a brass stamp could be used as a branding iron.

@Halitech- Well, you know a stamp is an image with raised grooves and lines. It would have to be a sort of reverse image to make a mold. The normally raised areas would be low, and the low areas would be raised. Then when the mold is poured, it would form the correct stamp impression.