McJeep

Excellent! Made me smile - she'll love it

There is a pattern in here somewhere but I can't find it on board to give u the link (apparently I'm search challenged) It can be sized to whoever you need to make it for and all instructions are really good. I saved it and can email it to ya - it's in word format and includes drawings which layout the pertinent measurements and how to adjust the pattern. email me (rampantleather@shaw.ca) and I'll email the thing back to ya - unless someone can find it here and repost it to ya. Rob

Did a tour in Kingston (Greenwood) - loved the valley

Kind of a neat punch for portability but I don't see where it has a belt hole (oval) punch available for it? I just picked up a couple of these for doing collars - I like the way the oval hole allows the leather to lie down a little smoother than round holes does - I chuck it up in a modified hand arbor with a break clamped to the table and it's really helped in the uniformity of the finished piece. Where you at Kevin? If you have access to princess auto stores, the have hand arbors on sale often. Cheers bud Rob

Cool

Now that's some great old skool flash art right there

Welcome fellow Canuckian

cool beans

Thanks guys - good food for thought - I'm just using old lepages contact cement presently but am going to try the weldwood once this can is empty - think I'm gonna trey the thinner method first as most of my gluing is for stitching edges of tool bags etc and usually it's only a half inch wide strip so squeegy is out ;0) I think that's what I'd use for things like holsters or sheaths with wider edges on em though. Am presently just using those disposable foam brushes - that way when the edge hardens I just trip a bit of it off - kind of like mini squeegees I guess. Muchos Gracias for taking the time to answer a pretty basic newb question

As the topic asks, what is the best consistency for contact cement to be most effective? I find it;s too thick outta the can and have been thinning it but sometimes I find it's basically barely painting the leather and other times it's rolling into balls or dragging itself along the piece instead of spreading on it. What signs can I look for during the thinning process to know that I've got it the right consistency? Can I count the drops that come off the stir stick like we used to do when mixing car paint? Any advice welcome Rob

Dearest Troy ... YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

These guys - made by olfa - no good for round corners but work very well for straight cuts and doesn't pull the leather as yer doing the cut - get the biggest ya can find ;0) Sorry for the pic size - it's the only one I could find quickly and I gotta run

LOL - I'm envious of anyone with musical talent - she's a purdy one

Cool design

Noice!!! But is it the Rose Waylon or the Waylon Rose?? I ask because of the labeling in the one picture.

Hehehe - I had the same mouse pad for about 15 years - tasmanian devil with a whirlwind of papers swirling around in the background - thought it was appropriate ;0) Have since started using a tablet as a mouse instead - easier on the arthritic joints

Should do - only thing I've ever seen them not like is glass table tops

I use a long straight edge as well, but I add one thing - once I have it set where I want it I lightly mark the line with a stylus (this is so you can tell if the edge is starting to wander migrate off you line for any reason and remedy before it's a problem) - I really like a rotary cutter that my wife picked up for me as the downward pressure that the leading edge of the cutter exerts seems to hold the leather down well and lessen chances of the leather being shifted under the straight edge - hope that makes sense :0/

Did you just grind off the leading edge and buff things smooth? Being able to see in there better would be nice so long as it doesn't weaken the presser too much Cheers Rob

Sorry to hear about the glue incident Desert - I too learned the hard way just a few days ago - in the middle of gluing up some parts and knocked my own contact cement over - thank God I always put glue in a little plastic jar when I'm working - was a lot smaller amount than a quart but I was scrambling pretty fast to get it cleaned up with thinners before harm was done - it never touched leather either - I vowed to keep the glue well away from the work and capped even if it's only a couple minutes between uses that day. Gotta hate it when the F'up Fairy knocks on yer door :0/ If it makes ya feel "any" better, I spent all of yesterday learning (the hard way) that 9 oz veg tan is just wayyyyyyy too heavy to try and work as a gusset on mini saddlebags - off to the leather shop today to pick up some 4 oz, then recut, redye, restart the assembly phase of the project. Even worse is the fact that the project is PINK! LOL Customer is involved with rides for breast cancer and what the customer wants ... ;0) Hope yer day gets better

Nice site Chancey - looks like yer "livin' the life" guy

Nice I'm envious of the square footage - I closed in the back 16' of my garage for leatherwork and am quickly finding it tight as I add things - Had to put the setup table (3x8 folder upper) out in the unheated area with the bikes ;0)

Ooooh, good question! Subscribed ;0)

Very nice

Whoops, completely missed the fact that you were dying before burnishing - yup, you'll see a big difference ;0)