McJeep

I've used a light hammer on occasion as well, but I also use a scrap of 12 oz underneath (underneath the hammer on top of the leather I'm repairing) it to ensure that I don't replace the feet marks with hammer marks ;0) It works not bad for blending things in and doesn't burnish. I try to keep it away from any tooling of course.

Wow, that's sharp! I see some kind of snap detail in the edge closeup you posted - did you hide a snap between layers of the cover to hold the ipad in place? Real nice piece - thanks for the inspiration - been meaning to make one of these for a while

Yup, that is one impressive piece of cow for sure - lotta work in there!

But Blazin is dealing with *two* 10 oz layers - mega thick! LOL

Thanks JImBob!

Ayup, that's a lot o' leather! Never seen a snap that long before. Anchoring it though one layer before attaching the two layers probably wouldn't work??

There likely comes a point where it's impractical to do snaps due to the nature of the beast - if they were to get too long in the shaft, I would imagine they would be too easy to bend etc. You haven't given any specifics as to what actual thicknesses of leather you're referring to - actual dimensions would help people know where to point ya

Learning curve is pretty quick - just got the 3200 this summer (my first machine) and we've pretty much come to an understanding already ;0) Congratz!

Nice! Modified basket weave?? How do you find it for wear with the braiding around the edges - what I mean is does the braid itself hold up well or might there be some wear issues in the lonnnnng term? Always amazes me how even some of you folks can get braiding done

Muchos Garcias on all counts Really appreciate it and now won't have to alter my design to fit the hardware I can get

Nice! Thanks bud - been lookin for a good source for a while now

nice! saved for when people start talking millimeters ;0)

Thread sizes http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/5-Thread-Size-Comparison-Chart-2-4-10.pdf

I like using the double bar buckles - anyone know of a supplier that does them in stainless in sizes above 1" ?? As for inner layer skiving, I stop my inner layer with a butt joint at the end of the outer layer by the buckle turnback (hope that makes sense) and it smooths the area out a bit this way. My inner layer is solely to provide a moisture barrier and provide a good way of anchoring the D ring (I like mine at the top of the collar vice by the buckle) from moving around. I use peened solid copper rivets instead of speedy rivets.

LOL, no problem - as for the dremel idea you mentioned, I'd go buy a stitching awl instead - drill bits remove leather and leave ugly tracks where the awls just *part* the actual hide and the hole heals around the thread better - the rotary hole punches for when you do lacing etc work well but are hand intensive - I prefer the single punches and a small mallet - it also allows me to clamp the piece down with a straight edge as a guide to ensure that the holes end up being true. Have fun - LOTS to learn - I'm still a rookie but 95% of what I have learned has been from the masters on this board that are generous enough to share decades of experience. And for what it's worth - I'm hammering away on a discarded sink cutout too LOL

I'm just starting on dog collars - I use two layers, if for no other reason than to be able to sandwich things like dog tag and leash rings between them. That way the rings are around the entire thickness of the collar itself thus making them stronger - I make mine for big dogs ;0) I've been using 3 or 4 oz latigo for the inner layer to aid with moisture issues like wet fur, and 7 to 9 oz leather for the actual collar. Bottom line in my book is if someone's got a water dog, the need to swap to a nylon collar when they head to the beach if they want the nice leather one to last. Biggest lesson I've learned - do not skive the collar leather down in order to make things flatter and more attractive where it attaches to the buckle - that one didn't last long with an excitable 100lb Rotti pup LOL Will start producing them for clients once I think I have the design down as perfect and safe as possible.

Wow - nice work

Holy crow that seems complicated - 1 ounce = 1/64th of an inch, give er take - easy peasy (8/64 = 8 oz = approx 1/8 thick) Can't remember where I got that from but it seems to work. I have a digital micrometer (for reasons besides leather) that I use all the time when judging leather - I find a piece of leather that "feels right" for the job at hand, measure the thickness in inches, and then multiply the answer by 64 to get the "ounce" weight that I need to order. So far the combination of micrometer and intuition has done good Hope it helps

love this board - especially when I get answers to things I haven't asked yet! hehehe I learn something new everyday here

Don't think you'll find a lever style for less than the others - the cost of solid bench mount ones was what made me go with press'n snap instead :0/

Yup, there's a bench mount for around $35 for the press'n snap But I just plan on clamping mine in a vice if needed for big runs - will see how it works

Making a strap today but don't have the guitar that it's for - what size hole punch do I use for the button end attach points??? Looks like 1/4" will work? Thanks much Rob

I'll check - got a BUNCH of stuff coming up right now - gearing up to get some stock put together for bike shows next year. "Startup" phase of turning things into a business is he77! LOL

Actually, the post office can and does charge those fees on occasion (random and dependent on individual post offices I believe) so the surcharge thing "could" still happen. But when it does, it's still no where near the exorbitant fees that UPS etc charge ;0) Overall, if there's no rush involved, the posties are a better bet $$$wise

Can't say anything about the DOT brand - but I did just get the Pres'n Snap - Holy crow, what a difference in ease AND the quality of the look of the snaps - completely pro looking roll on the posts and hasn't shown me a cocked snap yet - very easy to feel "when" you've given enough pressure to the tool - Two opposable thumbs up from this monkey