8thsinner

The only old way I know off was to roll up the leather a keep rotating it and hitting it with a maul. It splits the fibres up and softens it somewhat, in theory anyway, I have never needed to test it

It also could have been split from thicker leather and just broken down in the old fashioned style to make it soft.

Took this link from the other tool box one recently, But had to come in here and say that's a gift of generations. I hope he can do it proud.

Thats a bloody impressive piece of kit. Now who wants to build on bearman's beautiful attempt and build a complete leather kit in a brief case???

I have never seen a doll look so good, Thanks for sharing the link.

I love the simplicity of these and the overall effect it's awesome. The colours on the fourth are great and the one I would buy if it had the logo of the third.

Magnificent workmanship and artistry.

WOW, they look incredible and the carving on the last one is awesome, I wish I could do that. Could you please share something about your dry sponge technique, do you dab with the same colour over and over in different places or use different dyes or what. I love it.

I tried to reply to this earlier on my phone but it doesn't like forums It is not necessary to buy a perfectly round punch for example, I usually use the top of a herb container as a drawer for my centre cutting, there is usually a hold right in the middle where a nail can go through to get an exact centre placement. I don't always cut the outer side perfectly round either, i try to work in as much of the leather as possible. as long as it is not too out of balance it can rotate easily enough. I usually cut the centre out of the leather with a swiss card knife, or scissors again from the swiss card and the outer I make around dinner plates. Also with the lace maker, it can be used on the outside of skins like roo which is fairly stiff, but I have even done it with soft and worn sofa leather. I would not recommend this without some practice though, it's slow work and very tricky to remain constant. Most people differ on how they cut, but here is my way. Cut to width + 1/2mm or so Soak and stretch Split Soak and stretch Make sure you get as much stretch out as possible Cut to final width, I would bevel here if I had the tools. I use a home made splitter, which works well but doesn't have an accurate measuring system, I just go by feel and don't adjust it too much. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K14tBUerACc But you are better going to the braiding forum and looking around, there are lots of opinions on tools and methods best for different uses.

Honestly I think most people would not notice any loose points or uneven parts near the key loop. I am not even sure I am seeing mistakes I may not be seeing. I think it looks great, though actually a bit faded looking, Perhaps that is because the camera was so close though. I am sure it looks like real black up close and personal. The only major thing that is letting you down in my opinion is the lack of clean lines on the lettering itself, the majority of this one is pretty smooth but the close curves really get quite blocky looking. I am also sure I would not take this item to an event for people to order there and then, takes too damned long to do especially whilst sitting trying to sell as well. Put it online though for sure and see what happens. I think you have a winner. But like you say there are multiple mistakes popping up, so get some practice in and let us keep a close eye for you...lol

I decided to try and clear this work room up a bit. Here are a great bunch of threads to help beginners and advanced alike. Bosal Tutorial by Alan Bell San Juan Swivel tutorial by Megabit 9 Strand flat braid by Timothy Nose and heel by Rgerbitz Making rawhide lesson by Kaw Old tandy layout by Johanna Covering handles for crops on other items by Drac Clearest explanations for making turks heads by Johanna How I cut string by Rgerbitz How to use, carefor and choose a Bullwhip by Victor Rawhide tutorial by Rgerbritz Making a folded honda by Rawhider

Looks great. Now just try multiple colours then move on to pineapples...lol ANd if you didn't mention the needle I was going to ask where you got it, there is a site somewhere I lost selling about 5 sizes of silverish needles that I lost track off...

I hadn't seen this type of edge lacing before but I have to say I really do like it. I can understand why your frustrated with your own one with the gaps, but it doesn't look to bad I think. I rather like it. The one your making for your friend looks very cool too, is it a gift or was it a commission? Cant wait to see it finished either way. Looks tiny too, I love tiny workings of art, you can carry more of them in less space hehe

Actually I think head hunting is still done just not with spears anymore.lol

Also as you mentioned the braid being limp, in regards to pulling each lace tight how did you do it? Did you try to keep everything nice and tight straight off then move on to the next strand? Or did you plait loosely and pull tight only as you work the strand into place. The second method is preferred, but even at that, you may have been too scared to pull too tight, roo is pretty strong no matter who makes it, though I have broke small strands, it's hard to do. But it is a learning process. As for the fade effect, or darkening, that happens with almost all veg tan leathers I have worked with, ou can try to keep soap use to a minimum and only whilst working it, don't let it sit for too long and then apply another layer. Another thing is which soap did you use? Some are better than others. The appearance to me looks fine, you can still apply shellac or other varnish which will brighten it up some what. Oh and lastly The strands to me look to be about .7mm thick or so, if I am right that should still be plenty strong enough to pull tighter. Also don't forget, to other people it always looks better than the maker thinks.

Thats a pretty impressive looking bracelet. I love it.

I would like to see how that turns out roo, with close ups too if that okay.

you should look on you tube for embrand, Bernie has excellent guides on reductions from 16 strands. http://www.youtube.com/user/bernie46

Since I have started using ron edwards as a guide I have never had trouble with this, which is basically twice the wrap. When you analyse this in detail it actually works out to be more like 1.8 times. Because each strand is measured across it's diagonal sitting, once you have the diagonal sitting for a strands width at 45 degrees and you can fit in two wraps of it, it's perfect. It all depends on how picky you are. You can use trigonometry and calculate every strands width at 45 degrees and keep a record of this and that way it's easy to work it out for any diameter.

The way I re learned to braid was to double up what strands fit onto a circumference, ie, 1.25" in 1/8" strands is equal to 18 strands, And when you think about that it makes sense. Following each braid a strand has to go over itself so there is always two strands thick on any overlay, there fore what ever you can fit around the circumference is only half of the number you should use. Of course, symmetrically speaking starting off with 18 strands is not all that ideal, 16 would make more sense, U4, O4, or U2,O2,U2,O2...as knothead points out. it's really a question of what you want to do. Starting with 18 strands is fine if you want to braid in a certain pattern which is pretty advanced, then reduce to 16 to continue after a point. Also however, most whips are braided in a four seam plait, partially for speed and often because it works. In an 18 strand start though, I would start with under four over five. I personally would not add strands that are not of equal measurement to the other strands like said above, cutting two thinner strands to fill in the gaps. If you think about it, those strands will always be noticed by an advanced braider. and it's just as easy to add more of the same size strands because the only thing that really changes is the angle the strands sit at to a point. so, even starting with 20 strands with a sequence of U5O5, the real noticeable part is that the angle of braid is slightly below 45 degrees and it may look a little scrunched. If you started with 16 1/8th strands the angle of braid would be slightly over 45 degrees and it would be a little more spread out which is harder to notice than the previous example but it can be hidden with much more ease. In my opinion anyway. In the end, if you want a symmetrically balanced braid, start with 16 strands or re cut to suitable thicknesses for 16 perfectly fitted strands, or if you want a variation of the plait use a different sequence using 18 strands. Thats just my thoughts.

A tub would work as well as a bath yes, and the bags are to allow the feet a little more movement, sort of to make sure like the little toes can still move without crushing themselves and what not. And yes you would sweat a bit if it was hot or you did some activity. but you should only wear them dry indoors and preferably in a slightly cool environment, Any additional heat source can damage the mold. I am not totally sure but if you wear them hot, or allow your feet to get too hot it will evaporate the water more quickly causing the same lack of mold. Just wear them on a lazy day, mostly sitting around, watching tv, with occasional tea making, walk to the shops etc. Take it slow. You have to make sure you don't stress the leather too much in one direction otherwise you will lose vital support.

I currently have one of these on order... http://www.edock.tv/archos-archos-5-internet-media-tablet-160-gb.html I would like to know how different people would go about making a sheath for it under these conditions It must be belt wearable, and removable. It must protect the unit from a fall The screen must be protected from falling things if it is on the ground. I already have some ideas of how I might do this, but you guys are probably way more experienced in doing such projects so I seek your expertise in such matters.

I agree with your philosophy Knowhead, and I read somewhere recently, it might have been here it might not. He who braids with his hands is a Braider He who braids with his hands and his head is a craftsman He who braids with his hands, his head and his heart is an artist. I thinks it's the best way to braid, to always aim to be better and to put your all in it, I also don't hold back critique for such men for they can only take goodness from it's intent... Anyway, lovely work, I am waiting for a hide from Richard myself right now...grr, should have been here by now...

Two of my favourite techniques for breaking in boots are as follows. 2 day break in, wear them in a warm bath, take em off, put on plastic bags, put on socks wear boots. 1 day break in, urinate in them, wear them 6 hours, take em off, and leave em to dry.... The second method is hardly the most hygienic sounding but in an emergency it does work. However if the boots are good quality I would not risk the second method, and carefully make sure the first method is not too warm, otherwise it might end badly. I have used the first method on hiking boots, dr martins and combat boots with no ill effect.

I love the smoothness that you seem to get, but there is one thing I have to say stands out to my eyes and that is the whitish effect on the black strands and even some of the red on the pineapples seems to be the same, It seems like it's only surface black and the dye didn't soak the whole way through. Do you mind if I ask where you got those skins? Also, to my eyes it does look beveled, there are some nice sections where the whitishness is lost beside others lying parallel...Am I right in that?