8thsinner

I know people who use it for whip crackers, braided in to the fall too. Never heard of it used as thread but the specs you give make it seem worth while. Perhaps there is a way to soften it, maybe under steam or something. I reckon it would be fine for a sheath or similar item that generally stays rigid in form...

No i am not nuts but I am a perfectionist, I made at least 12 visible faults to my eyes, I was hoping others could point out more. Theres a few things I wasn't even sure why they happened thats why I ask for critique... I am glad you like it though.

Love it, glad to see you back and I hope you stick around if lifes a little more relaxed now.

As promised here are some better pics, not all that much better, but better none the less. It was delivered to the customer yesterday, and she loves it, was like stroking it and all too, She especially appreciated the certificate of authenticity with full colour pictures and laminated finish. First a close up of the crystals Two differently exposed shots... The pineapple which is a bit loose on one third, I should of added two more bights I think. And a long shot to show the straightness of the braid, theres a little wobble but not too much. Considering this is my first full kangaroo whip I think it's damned nice, and I am sadened to see it go. I have already designed my next whip and with luck it should be ready in two weeks or maybe a little more. another 20 plait, but this one with a twist, literally...hehe, that'll keep ya guessing.

If I can elaborate on Bevans response here, Roo is very tough, Cow hides that are cut as thin as roo for the likes of a whip or decorative bracelet can nearly be torn with finger nails alone. After braiding roo for the last week in my "mistress Whip" I can tell you my thumb nails scraped every inch multiple times, and there was no effect. The roo was heavily greased but this is the secret. Any leather that dries out will tear up really easily. Whip makers and users tend to frequently grease/dress leather so this is rarely if ever a problem unless a dog gets at it. I feel your sentiment on affording roo leather, I am in the same boat, unemployed and struggling. But SAVE up, recycle sofas from dumps and coats from second hand shops and learn to cut and prep good lace. When you can afford a good Roo skin go for it. It's really that worth it. Though I can highly recommend Springfield's Roo, Thats the stuff I used this week. After stretching...And they all needed stretching...So buy wider than you need and trim. Lesson for next time. Pink is thin but still incredibly strong. Black is toughest but should be split before use. Natural is kinda dirty looking, still strong but this carries the dreaded breaking a strand philosophy, if you think it's weak you won't pull tight. The surface scratches off a little though, and to be honest I won't be getting it again. Grape is beautiful and as tough as the black and just as thick.

I am showing this off but I would also like critique. Theres a few obvious faults that I still need to work on, and it's temporarily been given a two tone pineapple which I will be replacing with three tone later in the week but I needed it ready for a party tonight... So heres two pics from my phone. I'll get some better ones up soon. Just finished the mistress whip...10-14 hours per day since last Friday... Yes my hands are blistered, cut, bruised and sore. I can honestly say my blood and sweat went into this one. Heres the spec Tungsten powder core in a pig skin bag 8 strand inner belly 16 strand outer belly 24 strand overlay Five foot long, with a genuine white hide fall. Natural, pink and purple was chosen to match a swarovski crystals in the handle. 12 bight pineapple in two tone purple and pink surrounds the crystal setting.

I have a three colour pineapple to do within the week and will probably have trouble hiding all six ends. I have never been overly happy with my method either but after a while they do go into hiding and can't be seen so it's usually fine, but I usually have one or a max two colours... I like the shim idea, normally I use an extremely sharp knife (most any knife closer to me usually works.) Pull as tight as possible and slice through until it snaps off, then bury the rest with a pin/fid or even knife tip depending which one was handy... I might try the knot heads method though with this knot...

As always your sheaths, leather, stitching and finish are all perfect... Don't mind saying the knife is pretty nice too.

Looks like an old fashioned ULU to me, mainly used I think by eskimo's of some variety, but it's popularity has spread far and wide. ANd it was used to cut nearly everything a blade of that size is capable of cutting. That probably didn't include skinning but it's profile is obviously great for it if the need arose...

To save on costs you can also braid with paracord, theres a lot of makers doing this now and doing it very well too.

I would not say I have mastered any knots really but have gotten some good results lately with tying on the project. I would say start small, and forget about trying to keep everything even on the building of the knot, I think that comes with practice and you can make up for it during tightening. I have managed to get pretty decent 3x3 gauchos, and at the largest 9x8 pineapples. I would say the pineapples are easier though as they hold together better. I have been getting a lot of practice mainly through making leather rings, I offer gauchos in 2x2, 3x3, bloodknots, and spanish rings 2x2,3x3. I have to assume that tying these for different ring sizes has helped me build not only my confidence but also my speed. I can whip any of these rings out in under ten minutes, But I always tell the customer to give me ten minutes anyway just incase I make a mistake...Yeah I still make plenty of them mainly the spanish rings. I need to work on my multi colour pineapples more...Any tips there?

I like that, my partner doesn't really like the style, but she doesn't like bulky jewellery really. I can a few of the gaps in there between laces on the pineapples but the lines are nice and straight and overall I say good job. Hopefully the customer loved it and will bring you some more potentials too. Happy braiding. What colours are the next one?

Is everyone answering here so young they forget the primary concept when cutting. Practice Practice Practice Practice Practice Practice It helps to have an extemly sharp blade and to know that blade very well too though. Of course sanding machines can make up for a lot of our mistakes.

Valid point drac, But I am thinking about using it to see. I found this place http://www.gamolagolf.co.uk/acatalog/Tungsten_Powder.html And I am thinking of trying it, it has obvious safety benefits and is more eco friendly. It's not as soft but you would not need as much either as it is heavier which means I can make a much more dense braid in a smaller space. The problem would become that I spent 5 hours designing this whip based on lead, using tungsten will reduce the dimensions and I will have to start all over again....grr If there are no other suggestions I will be ordering this stuff in a few hours. I don't know by weight how much I need, I measured lead out before by volume. Should I get two tubs or one?

We need at least 150 millilitres worth, ideally 300.

Just got a new customer last night that wants a 6 foot bull whip made thats weighted. So I need to find lead dust fast, and it can't be just regular lead shot, I need the fine stuff as she is paying premium. Can someone please recommend me a supplier, I have tried a few leather places and i tried search here but nothing came up. UK would be best and I need enough to do two whips Any idea how much I would need?

I will take that, I remember them saying they were working on that 9 years ago... Bout time Details on way later today

I would agree with shape concerns especially in an urban scenario, But I have quite comfortably used a regular fanny bag as you say diagonally, on short walks. And I know this design is rather scottish looking really but, not so much that is could be confused as such.

I have not really come across oil tan skins very often and would love to have some for working on a few waterproof goods, mainly pouches and things. Maybe even a shirt... If you can share your resources that would maybe help but My real question is, is there anyway to make oil tanned skins at home, If so, what leather do I need to start with, both ideally and in a pinch. What sort of oil blends compliment the leather as opposed to destroying it? And how would I go about it. I suspect I would need to soak it in an air tight vessel for a number of days or weeks to let it really soak in. But then, how do you clean it up to make it not rub oil onto everything it touches.

A beautiful little possibles pouch was advertised as a money pouch at the festival I was at over the weekend there. Now, as I can make most anything myself, some better than others I will admit, but I rarely pick up other peoples work, especially when the girl told me the stuff is made in Goa, although it's her design. Anyway, they were going at 35 euros a piece, and We got two, one in black and red for my partner, and mine below. Heres the front on view, I picked it up because it's exactly the sort of design I was looking to create for myself and I still do, with half a dozen modifications for a more bushcraft nature. Such as a little loop at the bottom for attaching to a fixed position on the belt. I wear it diagonally so it fits under the arm, The zippers shown here I am probably going to switch out for buttons. and the belt will hang more loosely, With a molle attachment on the back side of it to attach a knife sheath, firesteel clip and a few others... I will be edge lacing the edges just for appearances sake even though it might reduce the waterproof nature of it, but it's to be worn under a shirt. WIth belt loops to provide the option to wear as a regular pouch. I think the design is really cool and don't want to blatantly copy it but it will provide a solid base for choosing the right size and carry system. I want to make two, one for each side plus a version twice the size for the back itself as a water bladder carrier and axe holster. I think the whole thing will quickly become my Hiking EDC kit. I would like to know if anyone else likes it, And whether there are other things that are on possibles pouches that I might know of, as I have never bought one really.

You should consider emailing them, I emailed Anna about two weeks ago and the boss is currently on sale I think off hand for 1200 dollars.

I don't know the abok number or if this one is even in ABOK but he has loads of complicated ones that we will try soon. This one is like crowning but it's crowning in two parts The routine is thus two strands in each quadrant and it goes top right down to bottom right bottom left to top left rotate 90 CCW repeat. It is really easy to do easy not to get lost but like all braiding it's reliant on tension and a little makes a big difference on this style.

I like that myself, though I would never buy a satchel that thick, I prefer more traditional backpacks. however it looks like it would survive anything I could throw at it. Nice job. How is the leather to work with?

THats a neat little design there I really like that, and I am thinking I can maybe braid one similar...ohhh...